1911: Bore Snake vs. takedown to clean

[OrangePwrx9]

My 1911 has become a safe queen. Haven't shot it in 3 or 4 years and I'd like to change that as it's a good and accurate gun. Part of the problem is that I don't like taking it apart for cleaning. The barrel bushing is quite tight and controlling the recoil spring and plug is sometimes an issue.

So the thought now is to do most cleaning using a boresnake, tidy up what's accessible with pipe cleaners, Q-tips, etc., and then lube it. Periodically, I'll field strip it and go through it in detail. Since I'll probably not fire more than 100 rounds a month through it, I hope to go about 6 months between takedowns.

I handload and expect to use mostly Bullseye and W231 for powder. They seem to burn clean. Bullets are mostly copper coated but may get into cast lead before long.

I'm wondering if this will lead to unreliable operation or accelerated wear. Don't want to damage this thing, it's probably the most expensive gun I own.
Bob

 

[PT1911]

well.. no thread.. but I will have to say... a bore snake is a quick fix after a range session, but it is not a substitute for detail cleaning a gun. I typically bore snake the guns after every range session until I find the slide gets a little "gritty." At that point, if not earlier, I take the gun down and detail clean it...


that said, I also regularly oil and inspect my guns for wear or Grime build up.

you will soon find those who say they never clean their gun until it misfires and others who take the gun down to a pile of pins and springs with every mag they put through it...

 

[OrangePwrx9]

Sorry 'bout that no-thread, PT. The site gagged when I hit submit , so I quick made a copy of the post and then pasted it back into a reply when I saw the thread was empty. Gotta be fast on yer feet, here

 

[The Wiry Irishman]

If controlling the recoil spring and plug are a problem, there's different way to strip it that might make it easier for you.

Hook your thumb under the grip safety and wrap your fingers over the top of the slide and hold it back with the notch in the slide aligned to the slide stop, then push the slide stop out. Then you can take it apart in much the same way as modern autos, just slide the entire slide, barrel, and recoil spring/guide off the front. If you don't have a full-length guide rod, make sure and keep your hand under the slide as you pull it off to keep the recoil spring from sproinging out and getting kinked.

 

[OrangePwrx9]

Thanks for the helpful tip, Irish. Tried that last night and it does work with my gun. Another option.
Bob

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

The bore snake only cleans the bore. It is not a substitute for field stripping, cleaning and lubricating the gun at reasonably regular intervals. A tightly fitted gun (too tightly IMO, but that is another topic) like this one is more sensitive to this.

You can keep a gun running for a longer period of time without cleaning (within reason) if you reapply your lubrication every so often. Here is a good explanation from Cylinder & Slide.

Just what are the right places? With the pistol unloaded and closed, put three or four drops on the barrel hood that is exposed in the ejection port. Then lock the slide open. Put a ring of oil 1/4 inch back of the muzzle of the barrel. This will keep the barrel/bushing area lubricated. If possible, put a couple of drops of oil in the open ejection port where the slide and frame touch on both sides. Turn the pistol upside down. The rear of the slide is now sticking back of the frame. Place two or three drops of oil in each slide rail groove and one or two drops on the center rail that cocks the hammer. Now close the slide and hand cycle the pistol half a dozen times with the muzzle pointed down. This will spread the oil. Wipe off any excess that might run out at the rear of the slide/frame area and commence firing.

 

[mljdeckard]

I'll put it this way. I use boresnakes for guns that I just want to LOOK clean. (Issued rifles in training units.) I'm not caring how they function, I just want them inspected and turned in.

For weapons I really DO care how they function, I may start with a boresnake, but it's going to be a field strip, wipe, qtips, etc.

 

[OrangePwrx9]

I'm also wondering how long that nice tight barrel bushing will stay that way if I twist it out every 100 rounds or so. Elsewhere here I read that the bushing is critical to accuracy...and this gun is accurate.

Between the wiryirishman's disassembly tip and the lube tips from the lone haranguer, it seems possible to lube it good and do a reasonable amount of cleaning without pulling the bushing.
Bob

 

[BCRider]

There's tight and then there's excess play. A tight bushing that is oiled so it doesn't gall the metal may/will eventually ease the fit a little to the point where it's a nice fit with no play and no drag. But it will never develop any wear that could lead to a sloppy fit or any measureable inaccuracy. At most it'll burnish the tighter spots to a nice slick but no play fit that'll be be easy to strip but still hold the barrel in an accurate position.

A bore snake may make it easier to clean the barrel but the slide rails and center rail for the hammer are every bit as equally important to the operation of a 1911 as the barrel being clean. If it's worth cleaning the barrel then it's worth cleaning and lubing the rails and center track to my mind.

 

[HexHead]

Sell the 1911 and send it to a good home if you're not going to take proper care of it.

 

[jcwit]

Just got back from the NRA Regional Pistol matches and Boresnakes were used in abundance there. Even 9 time National Champion Brian Zens uses them, so they must amount to something.

 

[OrangePwrx9]

Tell ya what, Hexhead:

I'll keep my gun, you can keep your opinion.

 

[robctwo]

I have a few 1911s. I use a bore snake, also shoot a little Eezox under the slide and on the barrel when locked back. These are to keep it running if it gets too dirty, usually 400-500 rounds.

I like to field strip them. The Les Baer 1.5" guarantee has around 15,000 through it and still needs a bushing wrench and some leverage. My Ed Brown Exec Target needs the wrench, but no leverage at all and seems to be about as accurate. I have a SA and S&W that just are finger tight. My feeling is that taking the gun down, cleaning and lubing and reassembling will do less damage/wear than shooting it dirty.

Pulling the slide off and catching the spring with the thumb before trying to get the bushing to move is a great technique.

Keep your gun. I started with the SA Stainless loaded. Ended up detail stripping it a few times, then replaced all the ignition parts. I detail strip every six months or so if I'm shooting a bunch. 1911s are the only guns I've had down to a pile of pieces.

 

[loop]

I agree with hexhead. Let someone who cares about the firearm take care of it.

A Boresnake is for cleaning the bore - after the weapon has been field stripped.

If you cannot field strip the weapon then get one that you can handle.

OTOH, it is your weapon. Abuse it as you see fit.

 

[OrangePwrx9]

If those accusing me of abusing my gun would read the original post, you'd see that I planned to lube, clean the bore and as much more as possible without takedown every 100 rounds or so. I'm not a high volume shooter.

If you read my subsequent posts, you'd see that I planned to adopt wiryirishman's tip to remove the slide to do a more thorough job of cleaning and lubing....maybe it wasn't stated; but after every monthly session of probably less than 100 rounds. Then a couple times a year, remove the bushing and do whatever else can be done.

If that constitutes abuse of a 1911, then it's a piss poor design to begin with. Since we know that's not the case; then either you do not understand my posts or I have offended your religious beliefs by questioning your rituals. Which is it??

If I'm risking accelerated wear of some part or another with this approach, then drop the accusations and tell me what I'm overlooking. :banghead:
Bob

 

[Quack]

if you are worried about the bushing, you can do what i do on bushings that need a wrench to loosen.

press on the slide & plug far enough to get the bushing to unlock from the barrel:
(I usually do this with my right hand, but needed to take pics :lol: )





then with the other hand twist the bushing off:



then release:

 

[Quack]

and per the Ed Brown manual

Disassembly Instructions
NOTE: Safety glasses recommended.
1. Remove magazine and unload gun.
2. If the gun is equipped with a two-piece guide rod, loosen the front end of the guide rod with a 5/32 hex wrench and remove.
3. Pull back on the slide and pop the slide stop about 1/8" out of the frame when the slides take-down detent is lined up with the stop.
4. Control top of gun while removing slide stop pin completely. CAUTION, recoil spring is under tension, control with a closed hand and
carefully remove top half of gun from frame.
5. Remove spring and guide rod back completely from the slide.
6. Turn the bushing fully clockwise so the spring plug can come out of the slide. Use a bushing wrench if necessary.
7. Turn bushing fully counterclockwise and remove.
8. Remove barrel.
Reassembly Instructions
1. Install barrel assembly and turn bushing fully clockwise.
2. Install Recoil Plug below barrel in its position and straighten bushing.
3. Assemble spring onto Guide Rod back and cram the spring down into place inside the recoil plug. Hold spring into place while
reassembling slide onto frame. Try not to bend up the spring.
5. Hold the slide fully to the rear and reinstall the slide stop.
6. If the gun is equipped with a two piece guide rod, reinstall the front end of the guide rod through the muzzle end and tighten.

 

[BigGuy52]

After I shoot my 45, I'll run the Bore snake through the barrel once just to get it somewhat clean, at the range. Then when I arrive back home, it's field stripped and cleaned thoroughly. I really like my guns to be clean at all times, even if they haven't been shot for a period of time.

You never know when your firearm may be needed to protect your life. I'd rather have a clean gun to depend on, than one that just had the barrel cleaned, and nothing else.

 

[OrangePwrx9]

Thanks, Quack, for the pictures and the instructions. The Ed Brown procedure will work with my gun, I'm pretty sure. Indexing of the bushing for removal is different, but that's about all. Mine has the two-piece guide rod as well.

I'll give it a try.
Bob

 

[Quack]

no problem, plenty of ways to do the same thing. just the way i found to take it down without a wrench.
on the Ed Brown instructions instead of using the bushing wrench, just slide the barrel forward to unlock it from the bushing.

i usually clean my 1911 after they get shot. Glock just get a Boresnake and after a while they'll get a cleaning

 

[robctwo]

I found that the 1911 was a bit intimidating at first. Lots of information on the net. Then I read that in a couple of wars they taught complete idiots to take the gun apart and reassemble it. Someone said in the dark/blindfolded. I have no experience with that. Since I'm not an idiot, I realized that I could get it right. Many teardowns later, no idiot marks.