1911 failure to return to battery

[Shifty]

Can't duplicate the malfunction for my gunsmith, and it's bugging me. But usually once or twice in a range session, the pistol will stop about 1/3 of an inch from full battery with a live round in the chamber, prior round fired and ejected with no problems. Light thumb pressure to rear of slide and it slides forwards and is ready to fire just fine.

Gun lubed and cleaned, and can't tie it to any specific magazine. 16 lb recoil spring, firing mostly WWB ammo.

Thoughts?

 

[MEHavey]

Next time(s) it does that, put those cartridges aside (unfired)
When you get home, measure the case mouth diameter.
It should not be over ~0.471

 

[kitsapshooter]

I agree it sounds like the cases is a touch oversize.

 

[rbernie]

If the round was oversized, I'd expect the chambering process to NOT be easily fixed.

What brand/kind of gun is it, how old is it, and what is it's condition? I ask because, for example, wonky firing pin safety plungers on Kimbers have been known to cause this type of behavior. I've also seen disconnector hang-ups that caused hiccups in the 'return to battery' process....

 

[HexHead]

See if you have a problem with some quality ammo first.

 

[Shifty]

Gun is a new production Kahr\Thompson\auto ordnance WW2 GI parkerized government model with about 1000 rounds through it. It's a series 80 style with no modifications other than a tuned extractor, flat mainspring housing and trijicon night sights.

 

[rcmodel]

Was it doing it before the extractor was 'tuned'?

You might look at some fired brass and see if the extractor hook is digging into the rim or extractor groove in the case.

Also, I know you said it was cleaned & lubed.
But be sure there is oil in the locking lug recesses in the slide & barrel.

rc

 

[9w1911]

thats what i am thinking too maybe the extractor has been bent,

are these reloads? what kind of 1911? my Kimber eats anything but I had the feed ramp machined by a smith a lot of 1911 perform better after that is done

do you plunk test if it is a reload?

 

[Shifty]

The extractor was tightened after it started failing to grab the spent cases. It now extracts perfectly, but I wonder if it could be too tight? Would that cause this type of problem?

 

[rcmodel]

Yes, if it is digging into the case rim or groove.

Look at your fired brass for divots & gouges from the hook.

Look inside your extractor hook for brass shavings.

rc

 

[Shifty]

So my extractor is kinda "brassy" but have no fired cases to look at currently.... assuming this is the culprit, being unskilled, is bending an extractor to "lighten" it, something I could do myself through trial and error?

When I had it adjusted at the shop, it appears they did some sort of heat treatment, as the metal shows obvious signs.

 

[rcmodel]

Heat treatment?.

That should never have been done.
You can tune an extractor just by sticking it in the hole in the slide and bending it slightly by hand.
It takes about 10 seconds once you have the extractor out.

There are certain points on the hook that need to be beveled & polished so the case can slide under them at an angle and not dig in.

You want just enough 'spring' in the extractor so that it will hold a loaded round on the breech face without it falling off when you shake it.

Any more then that is too much tension.

See this:
http://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm


rc

 

[Shifty]

Good info. Thank you much sir.

 

[DT Guy]

1. Chamber check ('Plunk check') all your ammo.
2. Check that your extractor will hold an empty case to the breechface, but will let it go with light tension.
3. Check the bottom leading edge of the extractor for a small radius and polish.
4. Replace with new, or known good, recoil spring.

Larry

 

[JRH6856]

You might take a look at this thread from about a year ago here.

 

[Shifty]

Thank you everyone for the replies. JRH, that thread was very informative.

 

[Fireforger]

I also have an Auto Ordnance 1911, bought new a few years ago, had the same problem. Gunsmith tuned it up and no problems since (he used correct gauges to adjust extractor, etc.). But then again, I have a GREAT gunsmith with the right tools and mentality. Good luck.

 

[orionengnr]

I have the utmost respect for Tuner, and I'm sure that the post linking to his post was done in good faith, but...

It seems that you are saying that this problem started after someone "tuned" (and maybe "heat-treated") the extractor.

Therefore, the breach face issue is likely a non-starter, and you are probably dealing with an extractor issue.

There is a lot of information available on correctly tuning a 1911 extractor, and it is not a complex process.

RC has given you a good starting point.