1911 firing pin stop fitting.

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DasFriek

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I have a new EGW FPS coming and have a few simple questions, But if i don't do it right its easy to screw up also.
Should thickness be removed by sanding the whole rear, Or by sanding the side tabs? The rest of the fitting i think is pretty self explanatory.

And yes ill be doing only a slight radius on the bottom only to help with recoil.
Thats a whole other subject but i know those who know the part will know it has a secondary use.
 
I've been lucky. I've never had to remove anything from the overall thickness. Only had to remove width to get it to fit mine. I would try to remove it from back side. I think it would be easier to keep it flat and true from the back side.
 
Is this a series 70 or a series 80 with the notch in the corner? If it is a 70 I would just lay the back side flat on a wide file and lightly rub with your finger until filed until it fit. Here is a good website for 1911's. http://forums.1911forum.com/
 
That was my initial thought, But i wasn't sure.
My factory one is pretty sloppy so i think ill get lucky and have very little thickness to remove, Mostly will be width.
 
Its a series 80, But i didn't know you would fit a 70 differently.
http://forum.m1911.org/forumdisplay.php?f=58
I have thier sticky section on my favorites as im rebuilding the gun and ill need alot of other fitting advice. But oddly enough i couldn't find this answer anywhere, Even Google failed me.
 
1911 Tuner knows just abut everything about 1911's there is to know about them. He's a nice guy. He has helped me in the past.:)
 
The last "oversize" EGW I got dropped right in my GI slide without fitting, 1 loving tap and it seated. I didn't have to work it at all. One thing to note, fit it to the slide first, then the extractor. Meaning remove the extractor, fit it to the slide, then put the extractor back in and further fit as necessary. I left mine very tight, hammer and punch to get it seated with the extractor.
 
I think mine should go in easy enough with little material removed from the thickness as my stock FP stop is fit decently but on the loose side with no marks it was ever hand fit.
So im guessing it wont be a hard job.
Thanks to Wilsons extractor not being a good match for my gun. I had to back cut the extractor and shim it against the back of the stop to keep the extractor more forward so it engages the FP safety plunger. I hated to throw away a $35 extractor that i already ran 1000 trouble free rounds threw it and it still looks new.
I could have just left it uncut and used as a series 70 design as i had been doing, But i figured since it was a ccw gun im better off making it work.
So fitting the extractor will be fit last as i may need to make another shim for a perfect fit.

I really dislike the idea of using a shim anywhere when im trying to make a very precision tool, But this is more like an irritant than a real issue.
And was a fix to a part that wouldn't fit unless i did it, Rather than it being a mistake i made in taking off to much material.
If that was the case id eat the $35 and buy a new one just on principle.
 
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The last "oversize" EGW I got dropped right in my GI slide without fitting, 1 loving tap and it seated. I didn't have to work it at all. One thing to note, fit it to the slide first, then the extractor. Meaning remove the extractor, fit it to the slide, then put the extractor back in and further fit as necessary. I left mine very tight, hammer and punch to get it seated with the extractor.
How do you get it back out? I'd think you'd need three hands to do it, what with holding the hammer and punch, and something else to depress the firing pin...
 
Punch on the firing pin held to my table with a clamp, another clamp on the slide to the bench. Punch/hammer to the FPS enough to get past the firing pin and the rest is easy. The clamps and a great/sturdy bench make up for the lack of 3 or 4 hands :)
 
The job went along very easily.
The only fitting was on the width and round the top corners a bit, Thickness was perfect out of the package.
I can really see how this style of doing a FP stop could help recoil, But the proof will be in the testing as it may recoil differantly than it used to and in a way i dont like.
If thats the case ill just ramp the edge and be back to the original design, But a much better part.

The trick to taking the stop off on a series 80 gun is fully depress the FP and push in on the FP safety plunger and release the FP and it will stay captured full compressed leaving both hands free.
I did make it tight enough i will need a punch to get it back off tho.
 
Nice job.I use a blue sharpie to mark up the firing pin stop. When you fit the stop the sharpie mark will come off where the contact is happening. That's where you stone the FPS lightly untill it fits. Better to have a snug fit. I have an officers model where the factory stop would sometimes "fall down" while shooting. Installed a better fitting one and now it's OK.
 
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