1911 Frame/Slide Overlap?

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GaryK

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I have a 1911 that has what I believe is a cosmetic issue.The slide stops about 1/16" (or so) from the end of the frame rails in the back (near the hammer). The gun runs fine. Is this just poor fit and finish or is it a symptom of something that should be looked into?
 
Overhang

Hey Gary,

Mismatch at the rear of the frame and slide was once fairly common, as very few production guns mated up perfectly. A few things can cause it...most are non-critical as long as the gun functions.

Lower barrel lug not cut quite enough can hold the slide back. So can a mismatch between slide and barrel locking lugs...or rather mislocation of the lugs on either one, or both.

Mislocation of the slidestop crosspin hole in the frame can do it.
Too much meat at the rear of the slide is always a possibility too.

Most custom smiths will match up the rear as a final step prior to finishing for the simple fact that it's hard to get a perfect blending at the rear...but a 16th of an inch is a bit off the scale and too much for a final blending. That much mismatch can also interfere with thumb safety engagement unless it's
a simple matter of a litle too much material at the rear of the slide.

The most critical issue would be correct disconnector function and reset. If the timing slot in the slide allows it to reset correctly, and won't allow the hammer to fall with the slide a 32nd inch out of battery, it's probably okay.
If the top of the disconnect hits the bottom of the slot with an audible "click"
when you release the trigger after dry-firing it and hand-cycling the slide to
work the group, you can deepen the slot a little with a scrape made for the task. Don't shorten the disconnect. Beyond that...if the gun works okay, and the thumb safety engages correctly without interference in its notch, don't worry about it. If you every have the gun refinished, you can have the smith blend the slide with the rear of the frame.
 
Tuner's diagnosis is on target. That 1/16" is a bit much, but mismatch in that area is common when replacing a slide. The only reason it isn't seen more often is that makers polish that area down with the slide and frame assembled so that they are even. That is the reason it is not too uncommon to see the extractor end protruding from the slide.

Jim
 
Not to hijack the thread,but my springer is exactly what Jim describes.The extractor sticks out to far-will it hurt to file the the extractor flat w/ the slide?
 
Extractor

Nope, racer...it won't hurt a thing. Ed Brown's Hardcore extractors are actually a little long to allow final fitting and blending. You have to be careful not to hit the slide with the file...and get ready to take a lot of time cutting and checking if you want to make it dead flush. We can take care of it when you come up for that visit. :cool:
 
And when you check it, make sure you have the FP in so the tension on the FP plate pushes the extractor out far enough. Whatever you do, don't blue the end of the extractor before you check the newly fitted length without the FP and spring being in. Now how do I know that :banghead:
 
Thanks. The gun is stainless steel. Would I be going about it wrong if I filed off the end of the frame where it overhangs? I am pretty good with a file and believe that I can blend it pretty well.
 
Other than skill (or lack of it) I can't think of anything that could go wrong, except that if you ever put on a slide that was longer you would have the reverse condition, then you file down the slide, etc. A little like the joke about the guy taking the wobble out of a table by sawing on one leg; pretty soon the table is on the floor.

Jim
 
The only "thing" to watch is on a series 80 frame in the "cutout" area for the lever. You can only "buzz" the frame so much to match the slide...the metal is thin near the top of the cutout.
 
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