1911 Hammer Follow Question

[Innova]

I recently purchased a used Kimber 1911. It shoots like a dream and the trigger is perfect with virtually 0 creep, and a very clean break. As I was having the sights adjusted at a local gunsmith, he noticed that when you rack the slide very quickly sometimes the hammer will follow down to the half notch. The same thing can occur when hitting the slide release. This hasn't happened when firing it and the hammer never follows. Being fairly new to the 1911 platform, how worried should I be about this? I already tried bending the sear spring, and it didn't seem to help. Is a new hammer in order, or what other repairs can I make before turning it over to someone more qualified? I think the previous owner used this for competition, but I will be using it for daily carry, so reliability is key. Thanks for the help!

 

[Old Fuff]

Bullseye target guns should never be used as carry guns for a number of reasons. What makes them so good for target shooting compromises them as a weapon. In this case I suspect that the hammer hooks have been cut back too far to get that trigger pull you like so much. When you drop the slide, particularly on a empty chamber the trigger bounces and hits the disconector, that then hits the sear, and the hammer falls to half-cock which batters both the sear and hammer half-cock notch.

It would be advisable to remove the mainspring, sear, and hammer and replace them with stock parts. The originals can be set aside in case someone wants to convert it back to a target gun. The "carry" pull should be set at about 5 pounds.

I hope you understand that the manual safety blocks the sear in the hammer's full-cock notch (called "hooks"), and if, as I suspect, they have been cut down you may be going cocked & Locked with only a hair holding that hammer.

 

[Sunray]

Sounds like the sear/hammer has been filed or stoned too much to me too. I'd change 'em both and re-do the trigger job.

 

[1911Tuner]

Followdown

Likely caused by the trigger nudging the disconnect and rotating the sear.
Add a tiny bit of hammer bounce when the slide goes home, and it'll do it.
Adding tension to the center leaf of the sear spring will probably take care of it. If the half-cock caught caught the hammer, this is probably it.

A quick test to see if it's the sear spring or the hammer/sear interface.

No ammunition or magazine in the gun...lock the slide open. Pull the trigger and hold it full rearward. Release the slide and let it go to battery at full speed. If the hammer doesn't follow, it's probably the sear spring tension. If it does, it's a problem with the sear and/or hammer, and possibly the disconnect itself.

 

[Innova]

I tried what you suggested and held the trigger in while releasing the slide. The hammer doesn't follow. I adjusted the tension on the middle of the sear spring, and it did reduce the times it follows, but it does still follow some times. Should I adjust more than just the middle leaf? Thanks for all your help!

 

[Old Fuff]

It depends on how you plan to use the pistol. The cure may be temporary if the spring takes a set again, and there is a question about the security of the safety lock (manual safety) if the hammer hooks have been reduced or the sear has an excessive break away angle. Target pistols are intended to be used for shooting targets, not being carried as weapons.

For additional information on 1911 platform trigger work see the following link.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=132013

For information on how the safety works:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=231096

 

[1911Tuner]

Leaves

Put a little more on the far left leg to increase tension on the sear itself. May help...May not. May need a little more on the center leg. Does the gun have a steel trigger?

A question:

After a slidelock reload...Does the trigger pull sometimes get lighter for the first shot? If it does, there may be a little tic interfering with positive sear reset.

 

[Innova]

Tuner, if you are ever in Ohio I owe you a drink! Thanks for your advice, I increased the trigger pull and put some more tension on the sear spring and no more problems. Thanks again!

 

[1911Tuner]

re:

Outstanding!

Going back to Fuff's advice...The spring could return to its old set. If it does, the best route would be be to get a new spring and start over. I recommend a Colt OEM spring, available for about 5 bucks from Brownells.
I can get the PN and the toll-free number if you don't have a catalog.

 

[Innova]

Yeah, if you have the part information that would be perfect. I have been a combat tupperware junkie for a while, and finally getting into the 1911 cult. I have to admit so far I am impressed, there is something about the pistol that just feels right. Do you have any other reccomendations or improvements that should be made? It is an older Kimber, so it doesn't have any of the newer "safety" parts, or the external extractor. Here is a photo: