1911 hammer strut length difference

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Rival

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View media item 4564I recently swapped broken original hammer strut on full sized 1911 (Springfield Loaded) to Wilson Combat Bulletproof. The new strut seems to be shorter than the original, but the hammer is under decent tension when all the way down on the slide. I did not get a chance to take it to the range yet to test, but is this length difference normal, or Springfield uses longer struts for some reason (perhaps lighter firing pin)?
 
You've got that stupid ILS gun lock mechanism. If I recall correctly, it used a longer than standard strut.

Personally, the ILS offends me and I'd replace the entire mainspring housing assembly with standard 1911 parts and I'd throw away the titanium firing pin and replace it with a standard steel one. Finally, I'd replace the firing pin return spring with an extra power Wolff as well as the mainspring (hammer spring) with a 23lb Wolff.
 
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Titanium firing pins, in conjunction with stiffer springs, are used as an extra drop-safety mechanism particularly for Series 70 1911's, as it has much less mass than a steel firing pin, Force=mass x velocity. Using the combination in Series 80 is belt and suspenders philosophy.
 
Titanium firing pins, in conjunction with stiffer springs, are used as an extra drop-safety mechanism particularly for Series 70 1911's . . .
Yup. This was how Springfield was able to get their pistols to pass the infamous California drop test requirement so they could sell their pistols in that state.

Does the Springfield modification work. Yes. Does it offend me that the government is allowed to impose such a requirement on a privately owned business? Yes.
 
Update: took the gun to range and send few boxes of ammo down range - zero issues. Wilson Combat hammer strut works fine all other things being equal.

Found another post about replacing ILS, and it requires changing parts only specific to internals of main spring housing, so hammer strut, firing pin, and everything else outside of main spring housing is not affected.
 
You've got that stupid ILS gun lock mechanism. If I recall correctly, it used a longer than standard strut.

Personally, the ILS offends me and I'd replace the entire mainspring housing assembly with standard 1911 parts and I'd throw away the titanium firing pin and replace it with a standard steel one. Finally, I'd replace the firing pin return spring with an extra power Wolff as well as the mainspring (hammer spring) with a 23lb Wolff.
I like a strong firing pin spring but why so heavy of a mainspring ?
 
I like a strong firing pin spring but why so heavy of a mainspring ?
23 lbs is and always has been factory standard weight for a 1911, at least in Gov't and Commander length guns. You can go up or down if needed for specific tuning purposes, but there are usually other ways to tune for a specific load. I run a 25 lb spring in my 10mm. All others have a 23 lb except for one used specifically for light target loads. I may eventually change it back to 23 lbs and do other mods to compensate when I have time.
 
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I run a 17 # in one and a 18# in another.

If you're doing that to get a lighter trigger pull you're going about it wrong. Mainspring weight change has very minimal effect on trigger pull for the reduction in mainspring. Whether you prep the fire control bits or not (better results if you do), the final step is to adjust the left and center leave of the sear spring to set trigger pull.
If you're doing that to tune for light loads then consider the cammer hammer mod. You can do it yourself. No need to buy one. For full power and hotter loads I use a square bottom firing pin stop. Solve more than one issue. First it delays opening by moving the leverage point of the slide lower on the hammer. It also helps because it is an oversize part that you can fit to eliminate extractor clocking (improves ejection reliability and consistency) and allows you to optimize the hook to breech face dimension for optimum control of the round.
 
I’m setting one up with an 18 lb coupled with a 12 lb recoil spring. All others run 23s with 13s and flat bottom FPSs. Really want to try the flat wire springs but I really don’t want to buy another kit then toss the 17 lb spring while having to order a second.
 
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