Gun Image - My "new" 1911

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ScottS

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Gun Porn - My "new" 1911

Well, I set out to build one from scratch as a learning project for my first 1911, and along the way I decided I would try an use only non-MIM parts wherever possible. I'm something of an old-fashioned traditionalist, so I also wanted the traditional Front Cocking Serrations and Full Length Guide Rod.

Here's the parts list:

CMC Forged Frame and Slide
CMC Lightweight Aluminum Trigger
CMC FLGR
C&S Tactical Drop-in Hammer and Sear
C&S Ultra Match Disconnector
Colt Hammer Strut
Ed Brown Tactical Extended Safety
Ed Brown Barstock Mag Catch and Spring, and Hex Mag Catch Lock
Ed Brown Hardcore Firing Pin Stop
Ed Brown Hardcore Slide Stop
Ed Brown Barstock Plunger
EGW Angle-bored Bushing
King Extended Ejector
Novak Low-Mount Rear Sight
Novak Front Sight
S&A Slim Line Mag Well
S&A Series 70 Beavertail Grip Safety
S&A Double Diamond Mahogany Grips
Springfield Stainless Barrel
Wilson Bulletproof Firing Pin
Wilson Bulletproof Extractor
Wilson Bulletproof Sear Spring
Wilson Hex Head Grip Screws
Wilson Plunger Spring and Complete Pin Set
Wolff 18.5# Recoil Spring (with firing pin spring)

After I got it all put together, I sent it to Mac's Shootin' Iron Restorations (http://www.shootiniron.com). He did his usual excellent work (the pix do not do his work justice), and turned the gun and 4 CMC Powermags around for me in just 17 days, door-to-door.

Here's how she looks:
2004577080038747748138.jpg
2004575329610923788650.jpg


I'm not sure I'd do it this way again, but I sure learned a lot, and had good fun doing it. I took it out for 200 flawless rounds before I had it refinished, but haven't had it out since I got it back. I'll post a range report after I take it out.

Scott
 
Oh man, that's beautiful and extra special having built it yourself!

Great looking 1911.

Congrats!
 
I also wanted the traditional Front Cocking Serrations and Full Length Guide Rod
Click to expand...

Traditional? JMB sure didn't think they were necessary.

Otherwise looks like some great work!

Proof is in the shooting. Please get back to us with the range report.

--wally.
 
Traditional? JMB sure didn't think they were necessary.
Click to expand...
irony i·ro·ny NOUN: 1. The use of words to express something different from and often opposite to their literal meaning. 2. An expression or utterance marked by a deliberate contrast between apparent and intended meaning.

I put 200 rounds through it without a hiccup before it went in for refinishing. We'll see how it handles in all black.

Thanks for the comments.

Scott
 
I think I commented on this gun on another forum, but I like how you fit the beavertail... it looks better than what alot of gunsmiths do.
 
Hi, Sean,

Yup, same gun I posted on 1911forum. And thanks for the compliment on the beavertail. Most of the fit was luck.

Problem is, like most things you build, I already know how I'd do it differently next time, and I want to do it again.

Scott
 
The FCS aren't going anywhere. They're here to stay on any 1911 I own. I'm sure it's just something JMB overlooked.:) In fact, I was given a perfectly good Colt Series 70 slide to use for this project, complete with lowered/flared ejection port, but decided to buy a new slide when I looked at the cost of having FCS's and Novak dovetails cut into the Colt slide. More safe fodder.

Let's see. I overspent on the frame. I should have gone with a Caspian cast frame. I think I would have been just as happy with the end product, and would have saved about $80. In fact, if I had to do it over, I would have gotten a Caspian Recon Rail Frame.

I initially bought Micarta Navidrex grips for the gun, but didn't like the looks, so I had to buy another set. Now, those are sitting in the safe. Same with a couple of other pieces I bought then rebought, if you know what I mean. I probably would go with Night Sights next time, too. Still time for that.

I think my next one will be a Commander-size. I really like that size gun.

Scott
 
I personally don't care for FCS but to each his own. You can always sell your extra grips here or elsewhere. I agree that a Caspian cast frame would be good and I like the Commander size too.
 
Eyes Front!

Just a FWIW post on the front cocking/grasping thingies...If they're already
on the gun, okay...If they're not...okay too. I'm not gonna put'em there if
they're not...Ain't gonna stress over'em if they are.
The only issue that I have with'em is that some tend to shred the lining
of a good leather holster...or a cheap leather holster.

Cheers!

Tuner
 
What Tuner said about FCS's is pretty much how I feel.

The only ones that really bug me are the ones on my Baer, as they seem to be designed to fill up with leather shavings abraded from the inside of my holster. :uhoh:
 
"Leather?" That's the skin of some dead animal, right?

FCS's don't seem to bother my holsters at all, but then all my holsters are made from the "hyde" of dead Kydex.

Don't get me wrong, the CMC frame is a quality piece of hardware, but I think it might be overkill, especially at the price.

Scott
 
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"Leather?" That's the skin of some dead animal, right?

FCS's don't seem to bother my holsters at all, but then all my holsters are made from the "hyde" of dead Kydex.
Click to expand...

I like this guy now, in spite of the FCS. :)
 
but then all my holsters are made from the "hyde" of dead Kydex.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I have about a half-dozen or so of those at the bottom of my holster box, but I'd have to dig to double check. ;)
 
Scott, how much did it set you back?
Click to expand...
More than I thought at the beginning. I kept very detailed records as I went along. Couple of things to keep in mind for DIY'ers.

1. Building from parts is always more expensive then buying whole and modifying. Doesn't matter if we're talking cars, stereos, computers, or guns. Parts are expensive. No two ways about it. I get a dealer's discount (C&R FFL) at both Midway and Brownells (which is where I got all my parts except the CMC frame), but it can still be an expensive proposition.

2. I tried to pick every part to be high-quality, non-MIM. That doesn't mean MIM isn't high quality, just that I specified high-quality and non-MIM. (Christ, I bought a barstock plunger tube! Do I really need a barstock plunger tube?) Anyway, whenever you hand pick each part for quality/performance, the price goes up fast. Again, it doesn't matter if you're talking computers, stereos, cars, or guns. By specifying each component in a computer, from the best motherboard, to the best video card, to a specific brand of namebrand RAM, to just the right round IDE cables, to just the right speakers, you increase the cost over a "generic-flavored" one. You will also end up with an endproduct from which you almost certainly cannot recover your investment, as the only ones who appreciate all the quality "goodies" may want different quality "goodies" in their own computer/stereo/car/gun. I considered buying a Springer Loaded, then stripping out all the "guts" and replacing them with barstock/Bulletproof/Hardcore ones, but I figured I'd end up in the same place, bucks-wise.

When all is said and done, including the refinishing, I have just a smidge under a grand in it. For not a whole lot more, I could have had a NIB Springer TRP, but then I'd have a good amount of MIM in it, and the whole thrust of this project was non-MIM. By going with CMC parts (quality MIM, IMO), I could have shaved off quite a bit of bucks, since I could have gone with cheaper hammer, sear, disconnector, strut, slidestop, thumb safety, firing pin stop, extractor, mag catch, plunger tube, and ejector. The margin on that stuff adds up.

I couldn't sell it for what I've got in it, to be sure. (But, then, I try not to ever sell guns.) Certainly, I learned a lot about 1911's in general, and my 1911 in particular, by doing it this way, which must be worth something. I also ended up with exactly the gun I wanted, which must be worth something, too. I got immense satisfaction when I took it to the range before I had it refinished, and put 200 rounds through it without a bobble, knowing that not too long before it was (literally) a box of parts in little ziplock baggies. That's hard to put a price on, as well.

What I ended up with was what I set out to get: a 1911 I can carry and shoot CDP, with a fit and finish that rivals any factory gun, that I will be proud to pass on to my grandchildren--assuming they're still allowed to own guns by then.

Scott
 
Aside from the Springfield barrel, those are pretty much all tip-top parts. Spending $1,000 to get that gun is actually a good deal.
 
I agree. That's not a bad deal at all, as long as you're not thinking about selling it.

Makes me wonder about buying a frame and slide for my next 1911 instead of a "base gun."

Gotta disagree about the cost of homemade computers, though. If you know what you're doing and where to buy parts, you can put together a ridiculous system for one-third the cost of an off-the-rack machine.

How much experience did you have in doing this before you jumped in?
 
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