1911 Mil Spec Followed Me Home--Range Report

[usp_fan]

Well I managed to find a used Springfield Mil Spec. I say used, but it was obvious it had not been fired much if at all. It was exchanged at the same place it was purchased (Gander Mountain in Maumee, OH.). I pointed out the extractor was sticking out the back of the slide 1mm and they were nice enough to knock $20.00 off so it sold to me on Saturday for $359.00. Not bad for my first .45.

Today I took it to the range over lunch. My quick report: The pistol is reliable with both 230 grn. Blazers and 230 grn. Armscorp. It shoots a tad low, and a bit left. I think it's low due to the range--If I'd been able to try it at 25yrds I'll bet it'd be right on. The rear sight drifts so the windage issue isn't a big deal. Groups ran between 2" and 3" at 20-30ft. I wasn't really trying, but next time I'll settle down on bags and see what it does with good ammo.

Grip safety: The stock GI part and my hand do not agree. I didn't think I'd have issues because my hands are small, but I deffinately need a beavertail. After 100 rounds my web was red and indented.

Recoil: Where is it? Compared to my usp compact .40, the Springfield is lighter, and straighter back--not as much flip. Doubles were fun.

Any one have a recomendation for a drop in Beavertail and if needed, different hammer?

Thanks,

still a usp_fan but liking 1911's

 

[1911Tuner]

Springer

Good report, and thanks for the write-up. I should be takin' possession of the one I've got in a holdin' pattern any day now...Been busier'n a cross-eyed cat at a rat killin' the last few days.

Brownells catalog...King's drop-in grip safeties. Different ones for different hammers, so be sure and get the right one. If you don't have a Brownells catalog, I'll look up the part number and their toll-free for ya. Let me know.

Cheers! Can'tWaitToBringMySpringerHome,
Tuner

 

[Sean Smith]

You may not need a beavertail to fix that problem. If you want to keep the more "traditional" look you can have the GI-style grip safety reshaped so it doesn't dent your hand & gives you a higher grip on the gun. The hammer can be shortened & re-shaped to keep anybody from getting hammer bite too. The pic I attached is an example of this type of setup on my Delta Elite; even with harder-kicking 10mm loads it doesn't "dent" my hand like the sharp-edged GI-style grip safety does in its unaltered form.

Drop-in beavertails work OK, but often look pretty crappy. You might just want to pay to have a properly fitted beavertail; it will be more comfortable and look alot nicer generally. This usually costs about $100 or so from a good pistolsmith. Either way, you'd generally need to replace the spur hammer with a commander-style or skeletonized hammer to work with the beavertail (though there are exceptions).

 

[usp_fan]

Thanks for the suggestions on the reshape and the king's part. I do have the Brownell's big book of everything so I'll take a look.

One more question: With the lower powered phillipino ammo, the casings were ejecting high and into the top of my head. Blazer was high, behind, and to the side (a bit). Can I do a tweak to the extractor or ejector to keep my head dent free?

usp_fan

 

[Sean Smith]

The short answer is, yes, the cases should eject to the side at a forehead-friendly angle. Tuner can take this one...

 

[Kaylee]

drop in beavertail?


eeeeeew...... icky

How'sabout ponying up the extra twenty bucks for the fitting jig, getting out the grinder or files, and fitting it yourownself? If you're at all mechanically inclined, it shouldn'y be a big deal at all.

Add some cold blue for touching up, and you're out the for less than the gunsmith fee. And it'll look a LOT better than a dang drop in.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...9&title=1911+AUTO+BEAVERTAIL+INSTALLATION+JIG

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...=16454&title=1911+AUTO+BEAVERTAIL+FITTING+JIG

 

[1911Tuner]

Drop-in vs Fitted

Kaylee asked:

How'sabout ponying up the extra twenty bucks for the fitting jig, getting out the grinder or files, and fitting it yourownself?

I might can thunk of a reason...Cuz he don't wanna lose the oh-riginal
configuration so's it can be REE-turned to oh-riginal to pre-serve the
oh-rigin-ali-tee in case it gets discon-tin-yood...which can happen.

I use drop-ins on my GI pistols so I can ban the blisters and keep'em stock.
Ugly as a mud fence...but they work.

I'll get back to ya on that head-poppin' ejection thing in a little while.
Suppertime takes priority 'round here.

Cheers!

Tooner

 

[1911Tuner]

re: Beaned by the Brass

Okay...Take a look at the area around the ejection port. You'll probably see
brass marks somewhere between 12 and 2 O'clock. What's probably happening is the brass isn't clearing the port in time, and the slide is knocking it backward. It depends on where it catches it as to what direction it goes.

The fix is a trial-and-error exercise. Try putting more tension on the
extractor first and test it. Next, if the extractor hook is square on the bottom, radius it on a medium India stone just a little. Don't get carried away. If you have a 6-inch smooth mill file, you can speed it up some by cutting a small bevel at 45 degrees across the corner, and following up on the stone. Since the pistol is used, my bet goes on the extractor tension.
If that's it, it'll return. Save yourself some headaches and get a Brown
Hardcore extractor.

A new recoil spring may help by slowing the slide at the point of contact.
16 pounds please...and 32 coils. Wolff makes the best IMO.

Check to see that the ejector is tight. An ejector that nose-dives even a little can throw the brass straight up into the slide. Rule of thumb is that
the lower on the rim the ejector hits, the more straight up it kicks it...
and the higher it hits, the more straight out. All this is affected by other factors as to the exact angle of exit, including the diameter of the case rim
and depth and shape of the case's extractor groove. The length of the
extractor hook is also a player. The shorter it is, the sooner it releases the
case. The longer, the later it releases it.

It may take all of these things...or none of them will cure it. If not, it's
time to have a look at reshaping the ejector face. That's a last-ditch.
If everything is in order, the standard ejector should do fine.

Have a go at it and let us know what happens. Somebody here will put their finger on it sooner or later.

 

[Tamara]

I pointed out the extractor was sticking out the back of the slide 1mm

Heh.

How else would you be able to tell it was a Springfield?

I love my Springers, really I do, but that three feet of extractor that hangs out the back of the slide on every...single...factory...Springer just bugs the pee out of me.

Interesting about the ejection pattern from your'n. When we were shooting Marko's WWII MilSpec, it just kinda dribbled the cases out the starboard side and onto the ground beneath with that stubby GI ejector. Having just let fly a mag of +P's through my carry gun (which puts the brass, rather inconveniently, into low Earth orbit) the difference was pretty noticeable.

 

[1911Tuner]

Springer Extraction

Tamara said:

I love my Springers, really I do, but that three feet of extractor that hangs out the back of the slide on every...single...factory...Springer just bugs the pee out of me.

File it down and stop all that peein'!
-------------------------------

And:

Interesting about the ejection pattern from your'n. When we were shooting Marko's WWII MilSpec, it just kinda dribbled the cases out the starboard side and onto the ground beneath with that stubby GI ejector.

That pore ol' stubby ejector ain't the problem. Needs more extractor tension. Low tension lets the case "roll" with the punch when the ejector smacks it, and it dribbles out. If the case is tight enough against the breechface, it gets a good, solid whack from the ejector...provided you ain't gotta gorilla recoil spring in that thing. Think of it as kinda like takin' a real
loose grip on a softball bat. When ya hit the ball, it won't make it past the pitcher.

Cheers!

Tooner

 

[m1911joe]

You are getting plenty of help with the brass hitting you in the head.
Let me try with the low and left problem. Since this is your first 1911
you might not be comfortable with it yet.
Have had folks shoot 50 roundsout of a USP and want to know how to adjust the sights.
Don't adjust the sights give it some time and more rounds.
The gun at 20 to 30 feet should be POA=POI.
Like your idea of putting it on a rest. That should tell you where the gun is shooting.

 

[usp_fan]

Thanks for the suggestions and feedback!

Does anyone have any pictures of a drop in beaver tail? I've seen the cut and fit one's and Kaylee is right, they look nice and it is within my skills to do. I'm not sure yet if I want to cut or not.

If I do, can I use the standard .250 radius, or should I use the .220 radius that the springfield's with beaver tails come with?

Anyone have feedback on the McCormick parts that are called easy fit? Are these MIM or milled or what?

thanks again,

--usp_fan

 

[Sean Smith]

Are these MIM or milled or what?

Chip McCormick = MIM.

 

[usp_fan]

Good to know,

Thanks.

I think at this point I'm leaning towards the Smith & Alexander grip saftey made for the shorter tang of the springfield. They recommend the .220 radius.

If I can swing the funds for the beavertail and the new hammer, I'll get them ordered next week.

I've decided that since I'll be cutting the slide for new sights sometime in the future, I might as well grind on the frame. This probably won't stay a stock mil spec for very long.

Anyone want to recommend a Hammer?

usp_fan