1911 not going back into battery

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May 4, 2005
Morgantown, WV
With my reloads, my Kimber 1911 isn't returning to battery. It will stop about 1/8" from slide being fully closed. I'm full length resizing of course, so I don't think that is the problem. Is it possible that my load is underpowered and not fully cycling the slide? What else would this be a symptom of? factory WWB works just fine, by the way, so I don't think its something that I'm doing.
Run us through your reload process. Bullet, powder, O.A.L., crimp or not, etc. :)

Could be crimp, could be to long an O.A.L. for that bullet etc.
Have you checked your reloaded rounds in a chamber gauge, or the barrel itself (out of the slide) to see where the problem is?

I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die to cure "fat cartridges". Some say the Lee FCD only covers up a problem that should have been addressed earlier in the reloading sequence. Other's say it's OK to use it. I side with the latter.
Look at both of the above suggestions...There isn't too many other reasons that a .45 ACP can go wrong...:) And I agree with the use of the Lee FCD though I have never had to use one with .45 ACP.
As PIMS suggested try your reloads in the barrel,
reloading 010.jpg they should look something this, if the loads are sticking out past the barrel shroud this could be your problem.
Thinking KISS--

1. Have you thoroughly cleaned your chamber? When I was loading .45 ACP and seeking minimal Major power loads, I learned to do this.

2. If your build process is OK and your crimps and seating is OK, then look at a mismatch on your springs and load size. A good set of springs is, IMO. mandatory for matching up reloads and cycling.

My favorite club competition load was a 200-gr SWC over about 4.8 gr of 231. In my SA1911 that was 'smithed up and had a 3-lb trigger, new barrel, etc., I had SDs of 5 or so and almost exactly 800 fps. Depending on the bullet mfr, I could get lube build up in the chamber, which I would initially miss (in the beginner days) when I cleaned my barrel. And, that load is low enough to cause cycling problems with a dirty gun.

Jim H.
Rock Steady it's possible that your putting to much flare on the case mouth. Reduce case mouth flare or buy a Factory Crimp Die from Lee. Happy reloading.
Get yourself a case guage - http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=247371

And the Lee FCD - http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=716704

I set my taper crimp at .468" and my OAL at 1.255" for 230 gr FMJ. This was the recommendation that came with the paperwork for my Wilson CQB. Never had a problem with these numbers. Check your numbers with a good digital caliper during setup and then spot check with the case guage as you go. If it'll go in the case guage, then it'll run in the gun.
I'm certanily no expert, but have had the same problem. It turns out it had nothing to do with the ammo and it just needed a little oil. There is a indendation in the middle "rail" on the slide and i just oiled it slightly.
I'm certanily no expert, but have had the same problem. It turns out it had nothing to do with the ammo and it just needed a little oil.

Could it be that easy,"Just giver a little drink" well it is a Kimber :D A mil-spec 1911 wouldn't be that fussy.
Well, I guess.....

Right now, the most recent reloads I have this problem with are a 230gr LRN from Meister Cast over 5.4 gr Unique. Everything on my Kimber is stock. COL is 1.268. I haven't checked them in a chamber guage cause I ain't gots one. :) Using my regular old dial caliper, the diameter at the crimp is 0.473. Just abot right according to Speer. Any further thoughts? I will try seating the cartridge in the chamber next.
Oh, and with that FCD - is that another step or can you use that die for bullet seating too? I don't reload progressive and 3 times through the press is about enough for me.
If you reduce those rounds to 1.260" they are going to chamber and shoot, unless you have some bulges caused by case length variation. Our Kimber doesn't like anything much over 1.265". We went through this with lots of fail to chamber until I cut the OAL down.

The guys from Wilson actually recommend 1.250-1.260" and claim that 230 gr. RN are the least reliable to feed. This comes from their instruction book for their guns and from Bill Wilson's book on cleaning and care of .45 ACP 1911.
I don't reload progressive and 3 times through the press is about enough for me.

Get those three steps right and there is no need for the Lee FCD. :)

If you reduce those rounds to 1.260" they are going to chamber and shoot

I am willing to bet benedict1 is right on this one. 1.268 is on the long side. :)
Had the same problem with a Springfield 1911.
Solution #1 (cheapest) - clean that sucker REALLY well, especially where the barrel lugs lock up into the slide. This certainly won't hurt but it didn't fix mine.
Solution #2 (just as cheap) - polish the outside of the barrel and the inside of the barrel bushing and put a little grease in there. My barrel bushing was the tiniest bit too tight and this fixed it.
Solution #3 - Sorry, but #2 fixed mine so I can't really offer anything more.
Alright, I went down there to my dungeon and shortened the OAL of some of my reloads and just dropping them in the chamber by hand, they are looking better. They will cycle by hand pretty reliably too. Now to find some time to get out to the range. Thanks guys, I'm glad I didn't go crazy buying other stuff to fix this, looks like you found it for me. Have I mentioned how much I love The High Road? First time this place has ever saved me money, tho....bit of a switch. I'm used to seeing stuff I can't live without and have to go out and buy. :)
Are you using a taper crimp die?

If you are using a roll crimp, if the crimp is a bit tight, it will slightly bulge the case below the crimp and cause the problem you describe....Lee makes a resonable taper crimp die......chris3
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