1911 spring assembly hook tool?

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.cheese.

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Does anybody make a tool that is better to use than a bent paper-clip? I find paper clips either bend or eventually sheer from the tension.

Maybe a titanium or brass hook tool is available that fits the hole on STI one-step removal spring assemblies?
 
I have no idea what you are talking about?

But go to a hobby shop and buy a stick of Music Wire of the correct size, then make whatever it is out of that.

I guarantee you won't break it.

rc
 
Oh sorry, I should have specified further.

Ok, on my STI 1911s, to remove the spring assembly, you push the assembly forward, then pop a bent paper-clip in a hole on the guide-rod to hold the tension, then pull the assembly out the back paper-clip and all.

I just was trying to find something better to use than a paper-clip.
 
I once took my gunsmith a couple yards of 1/16" welding wire, some stainless, some Inconel. Clip off about 3", put 1/4" in the vise and bend it 90 deg with a hammer.
 
He's talking about one of those things that make people think it's hard to disassemble a 1911

Oh no, don't get me wrong. It's easy. I just want something a little stronger to do the job than a paperclip if it's available.
 
take down tool

My suggestion is to call STI, they probably provide a tool. I have a Kimber and the takedown must be the same as Kimber provides a small "L" shaped stainless wire. (But I wind up using a paper clip most of the time)
 
You could always get rid of the non-standard guide rod and put back the proper JMB-approved parts. Then your 1911 would disassemble just as easily and naturally as they've done for millions of other folk for the last century or so...

:D

Before you think that I'm being smart - that's exactly what I've been doing with every one of my 1911s. I will no longer accept a captive guide rod or a one-piece guide rod.
 
The Kimber tool is stainless steel and much harder to bend than a paper clip. BTW, that price was for a package of 5 which is still a lot of bent paper clips for the price of one. Kimber typically sends one to owners of Pro's or Ultra's who call and let them know they have "lost" it.
 
package of 5 huh?

I'll have to log in when I'm on a different computer and see what the C&R dicsount on it comes out to.
 
apparently they can also be bought for $1.99 each.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure if the hole size is the same on Kimbers and STI captured recoil spring assemblies.

I like RCmodel's idea though. Music wire is high-carbon steel and would probably be perfect for this type of job.

Hobby shops sell it? Like R/C and model rocket type hobby shops?
 
I'm confused Evenflo76, that's for field stripping a Glock. The Glock captured recoil springs aren't the same as what I'm talking about (unless maybe you're talking about the 34/35 practical-tactical which I don't own and don't know if it uses a similar assembly).
 
You only need to read steps 1 and 2. Use the grip that is displayed. By pushing the lower forward and slide rearward with the one hand, one can simply line up the slide stop and remove it.

There is no need to use a tool.
 
I use this method for my officers size RIA Compact. It also works on my Springfield Operator. For those with a FL Guide Rod, The slide assembly can be removed in one piece
 
hmm... again, I might be missing something.

Here's how I've been taking apart my STI 1911s (Trojans and Ranger IIs).

First, I move the slide backwards to line up the second notch from the front with the slide-stop. Then, holding the whole thing in place with my right hand, I pop out the slide stop. Then the whole slide with barrel and recoil spring comes off in one piece. It's the same way I take apart my Kahr MK40s and when I owned one, my Kahr PM9.

The tool I'm talking about isn't for that (but I'm sure you know that).

After I've taken the slide and all off, to get the captured recoil spring out, I have to compress the spring pushing the guide rod out the front exposing a little hole. Then I put a bent paper clip in the hole, and then the whole recoil spring and guide rod slide out the back, revealing the barrel which can then be taken out easily.

It's really easy - don't get me wrong. It just seems that the tool used could be improved a bit.

The slide assembly is removed in one piece already.

The Glock is a little easier to take apart I'll admit, but I'm learning now why people love 1911s. They're fantastic. On a sidenote - I got tired of hearing the 1911 vs Glock debate, so the easiest solution is to just own both.

Are you talking about a way to get the captured recoil spring separated from the slide without a tool? If so, I'm still not understanding (sorry).
 
"...paper clips either bend or eventually sheer..." They're cheap tools though. Mind you, my Colt Government doesn't need any tools except to get the firing pin stop out. A 1/8" punch does that.
 
You could always get rid of the non-standard guide rod and put back the proper JMB-approved parts. Then your 1911 would disassemble just as easily and naturally as they've done for millions of other folk for the last century or so...
That's what I do with all of mine. Although instead of buying a short guide rod I just cut the FLGRs down and round off the end.

Mind you, my Colt Government doesn't need any tools except to get the firing pin stop out. A 1/8" punch does that.
A pen or pencil works too. I've won 5 bucks a few times by using a pen or pencil to detail strip a 1911.
 
That is the 1 of the many beauties of the 1911 platform. JMB designed it to be detail stripped without any outside tools. Only it's own parts, with exception given to the grip screw slots which were originally beveled. These can be unscrewed with the rim of a case.

Here : http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/toolbox.htm

.cheese to answer your question ( I think you were asking me ) This works for my two pistols, However I do not have a captured?? recoil guide spring...

Here is a link to what I'm referring to. I'm pretty sure you need to be a member of the forum in order to view the pictures though. This is an excellent 1911 forum and they have sub forums for just about every manufacturer.

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=60731
 
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