1911 Vise Jaws or Pads?

[Chindo18Z]

My first attempt at replacing staked front sight...using a Sistema as my project gun. Have been looking thru Brownells on-line. Can anyone recommend a dedicated 1911 vise adapter/pad suitable for securing the slide or should I just use leather pads from Brownells?

Sistema shoots fine, bluing is about 75%. I just want to install narrow tenon King's Hardball front/rear set, install Wolf 16.5 Variable recoil spring, replace plunger tube spring assembly (original one falls apart into 3 pieces after removal), and try my hand at home cold reblueing. Intend to keep this one as a shooter; nothing fancy.

As near as I can tell, I need to order front sight staking tool, replacement springs/assembly, and something to secure/protect slide in the vise. I've been looking at various websites (Blind Hog, Roderus) as well as forums like this.

Already have vise and (I think) the tools needed for removal of original front sight [needle nose pliers, brass hammer, Dremel, vise grips, 1/8" drift punch (or do I need a smaller punch?)].

Trying to keep this project low cost and I don't pretend to have gunsmithing skills. On the other hand, I'm pretty familar with 1911 and have decided to roll up my sleeves and give it a try...

Sorry for straying from the original question about vise pads but I want to be sure I'm set up properly before working on my Argentine friend.

 

[kimbernut]

Vice Jaw pads

I use aluminum angle with a strip of thick leather contact cemented to one o/s angle face and 3/16" thick closed cell foam cemented to the other o/s angle face.These just sit on the vise jaws. Some folks will glue on some magnetic strips to hold them in place. Just the leather pads alone can be done but sometimes it feels like a juggling act where you need a third hand.

 

[1911Tuner]

Staking Front Sight

Be sure to use a small round stone or carbide burr on your Dremel to
open up a "well" around the hole on the inside of the slide so that the
peened tenon can flow and secure the stake. Otherwise, you'll
just have to do it again. The Argentine Colt should have the well already in place, but check to make sure.

Luck!

Tuner

 

[Dave Sample]

Brownell's sells a 12 " piece of bronze angle that we recommend for vice jaws. I have used my set for 20 years with pleasure and I see no need to use anything else. I also have a set of conveyor belt inserts that I use for the Single Action Work that do a nice job of protecting the finish on various type of guns.

 

[Bill Z]

I might add to Dave that I use a small scrap of leather to help protect my work when I can.



Here are before and after shots of a slide concerning the 'well' to make for the front sight. You need to use a good carbide burr and have a steady hand. After you stake the sight, don't forget to smooth the area back out so there is no interference with the bushing.







Thanks for the photo's Dave.

 

[Jim K]

Bronze/brass jaws are OK for most purposes, but for a blued gun I prefer leather jaws. The bronze can scar bluing and can also sometimes pick up pieces of steel that get imbedded in it. I also like copper or lead when something softer than brass is wanted. There is no single answer as to which type of vise jaws to use; it depends on what you are doing and your own preferences.

Jim

 

[JohnBT]

6" x 6" cork or rubber gasket from the local plumbing department. Cut one in half and go to it. About a buck or so. I used the cork gasket a couple of years ago when I replaced the rear sight on my mirror-polished stainless Kimber and it worked perfectly.

One of these days I might just buy the real thing from Brownell's. Then again, I have this old horsehide I could cut up and have a lifetime supply for lots of things.

John

 

[Dave Sample]

I aways tape the sides of a slide or lower end with masking tape or a special tape I have for bead blasting our two media Gunsite Prep. I never work on any 1911's that are finished, as all the work I do now is preperation for the bluing tank. I can't imagine anyone clamping a finished gun in a vice. When I was tweaking factory guns usually had them re-finished as the wotk I did required it. Installing Ed Brown Beaver tails demands the the lower end be redone and checkering front straps, etc all requiredthe parts to be re-finished.

 

[Chindo18Z]

Thanks for the replies! Excellent feedback concerning vise pads and Dremel work. I'll refinish the weapon after I install sights/springs and testfire. I'm going to order what I need and drive on with this project...