bushmaster1313
Member
I would strip the stock and refinish with Tru-Oil.
It will look great.
It will look great.
1943 K98k at Gander Mountain for $120
- Thread starter HDCamel
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@Murphy
It's still 8mm
@Bushmaster
The thing is, I like the darker look, but the finish itself is very poor. I'm more wondering if it's better to leave it as is or strip it off and finish it in a similar color (maybe a little brighter). Though True Oil could work if the wood has becomed permanantly stained.
It's still 8mm
@Bushmaster
The thing is, I like the darker look, but the finish itself is very poor. I'm more wondering if it's better to leave it as is or strip it off and finish it in a similar color (maybe a little brighter). Though True Oil could work if the wood has becomed permanantly stained.
I think it still has historic value, do to the fact it's a war time capture by the Soviets. I bought a R/C bcd 43 when they first hit the market, and I haven't changed anything. I just keep it clean. Thats just my opinon though. You got a nice one.
BrocLuno
Member
If you want a dark TruOil finish, you get artist oil paints in dark colors. After stripping and restaining (base prep), when you are applying the first few coats, use a desert plate. Put the artist dark oil paint in blob on the edge and pour some TruOil into the flat of the plate.
If you hand rub, just draw some oil onto you fingers and then some color and start rubbing. If you brush (as I do), use a camels hair 3/4" brush and draw some pigment into the oil and stir, brush on thinly with the color in. You can control the color, shade and depth as you work up through the first five coats or so. Once you get to five, I'd switch to clear TruOil for the next five. I now finish the top coat with Helmsman Spray Spar Varnish (rattle can) in Satin Finish for the final coat because if the silky warm feel (the "hand"). It's a real nice feeling finish and most folks who handle a stock finished this way really comment positively.
The finish I describe is low gloss satin finish and not that far off from a lot of coats of BLO and years. My finish feels a bit "drier" and never gets sticky in the heat. The strength comes from the TruOil and the many thin coats well cured. The feel comes from the top coat. The color - from your imagination
If you hand rub, just draw some oil onto you fingers and then some color and start rubbing. If you brush (as I do), use a camels hair 3/4" brush and draw some pigment into the oil and stir, brush on thinly with the color in. You can control the color, shade and depth as you work up through the first five coats or so. Once you get to five, I'd switch to clear TruOil for the next five. I now finish the top coat with Helmsman Spray Spar Varnish (rattle can) in Satin Finish for the final coat because if the silky warm feel (the "hand"). It's a real nice feeling finish and most folks who handle a stock finished this way really comment positively.
The finish I describe is low gloss satin finish and not that far off from a lot of coats of BLO and years. My finish feels a bit "drier" and never gets sticky in the heat. The strength comes from the TruOil and the many thin coats well cured. The feel comes from the top coat. The color - from your imagination
Fred Fuller
Moderator Emeritus
Not really sure what all of the markings mean.
They're manufacturer or subcontractor codes. See
http://home.scarlet.be/p.colmant/k98kmarkings.htm
http://home.scarlet.be/p.colmant/subcontractors.htm
among other sources to interpret the stamps.
See http://www.radix.net/~bbrown/codes_full.html for an explanation of why codes were used.
Nice find, give it a good home and keep it as is save for shooting and cleaning. No need to remove character by refinishing anything. The way your thread started out, I was telling myself, "Yeah, and it's gonna have matching byf stamps, too." That would have been really nice, but as it is it's still good. Be sure you check the headspace in it just to be on the safe side before shooting it...
lpl
They're manufacturer or subcontractor codes. See
http://home.scarlet.be/p.colmant/k98kmarkings.htm
http://home.scarlet.be/p.colmant/subcontractors.htm
among other sources to interpret the stamps.
See http://www.radix.net/~bbrown/codes_full.html for an explanation of why codes were used.
Nice find, give it a good home and keep it as is save for shooting and cleaning. No need to remove character by refinishing anything. The way your thread started out, I was telling myself, "Yeah, and it's gonna have matching byf stamps, too." That would have been really nice, but as it is it's still good. Be sure you check the headspace in it just to be on the safe side before shooting it...
lpl
I have already checked headspace and firing pin protrusion. Everything's good to go, I just have to acquire ammo and find the time to shoot it (the harder of the two).
Thanks for the resources. I knew WHAT they were, just not what they all mean. So this is a 1944 receiver made by Gustloff Werke on a 1943 barrel by Ruhrstahl then?
The stock is also pre-43 (I think that's the year) since in has the flat buttplate and the buttplate is even older than the stock (if the serial numbers are any indication).
I wouldn't be surprised if the entire timeframe of the war was represented with this thing.
Thanks for the resources. I knew WHAT they were, just not what they all mean. So this is a 1944 receiver made by Gustloff Werke on a 1943 barrel by Ruhrstahl then?
The stock is also pre-43 (I think that's the year) since in has the flat buttplate and the buttplate is even older than the stock (if the serial numbers are any indication).
I wouldn't be surprised if the entire timeframe of the war was represented with this thing.
I've bought one gun at GM. As I walked in they put a beautiful Coast to Coast branded Mossberg 500 in the used rack for $99. I bought it instantly. That was the last time I've ever considered buying one there. I still check the used rack every couple weeks. Good buy OP!
KrankyKraut
Member
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- Oct 30, 2005
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- 173
Looks like you got a walnut stock there. Nice! I'd remove the Russian shellack and bring back the original look. There's a beeswax mix available from the gunstock Dr. Tom's. It works great for that. Here's the link: http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/FutureProducts.html
Just because the Soviets worked over it doesn't mean its history was destroyed; it still has history, and the refurbishments they might have done to the rifle happened a long time ago. It just isn't as desirable as other Mausers. I personally think the red stock looks really nice.
I finally got around to taking the stock off and there is some pitting on the underside of the barrel. It's not deep so I'm not concerned, but alas.
Damn russians must have put the barrel/receiver in while the finish was still wet since there was some residual stain on the barrel where the pitting is.
Damn russians must have put the barrel/receiver in while the finish was still wet since there was some residual stain on the barrel where the pitting is.
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