jfh
Member.
1 LT MPC: users of the Lee scale typically get frustrated in using it because a) it is hard to adjust without incessant 'jiggling', and b) it takes a long time to settle in.
My experience shows that one can easily overcome the problems with changing the vernier setting--which is the jiggly part by doing the following.
As for the settling-in time--if the charge weight is reasonably close to the set weight--say plus-or-minus two-tenths grain--the settle time is short. If you have trouble with a long settle-in time, try pouring your charge slowly into the tray.
Personally, I use the scale mostly for handgun charges, and most often for load-development--i.e., changing charge weights by perhaps two-tenths grain after ten loads, that sort of weighing. I have other beam scales (505, 1010), but I need the Lee because of its small size for a smaller bench now., combined with an adjustable charge bar in the (Autodisk) measure and familiarity with the powders I use lessens the amount of time to derive an accurate charge weight and then test it by five to ten repetitions.
But, the real trick for me was when I understood the technique for adjusting the vernier.
Obviously, this list does not discuss all the tasks in keeping a balance beam scale operating accurately. I assume you know those--but the only real negative I've found was that, on a twenty-year old scale, the razor balance point was 'rusty'--not just grunged up with airborne detrius. I replaced that scale with a new one, as I didn't trust accuracy any longer.
Jim H.
My experience shows that one can easily overcome the problems with changing the vernier setting--which is the jiggly part by doing the following.
1. take the beam off the scale (I have to do this anyway to cope with my aging eyes).
2. Leave the vernier 'set' button pushed in--i.e., with the drag on.
3. Hold the beam in both hands and place your thumbnails on either side of the vernier slide.
5. Double-check that the ball bearing in the proper trough for your charge weight. Reattach the powder tray--and go to work.
2. Leave the vernier 'set' button pushed in--i.e., with the drag on.
3. Hold the beam in both hands and place your thumbnails on either side of the vernier slide.
With a bit of practice, you should be able to push with the appropriate thumbnail to slide the verneir up or down steadily. IOW one can easily make the 0.1 gr. incremental changes without the vernier going back and forth, or jiggling when it's on the balance point, etc.
4. Replace the beam back on the balance point. Make sure it is settled into the point / razor blacde ; it is easy to get it off sllightly. Look at the left end to see that it is centered and that it will swing freely.5. Double-check that the ball bearing in the proper trough for your charge weight. Reattach the powder tray--and go to work.
As for the settling-in time--if the charge weight is reasonably close to the set weight--say plus-or-minus two-tenths grain--the settle time is short. If you have trouble with a long settle-in time, try pouring your charge slowly into the tray.
Personally, I use the scale mostly for handgun charges, and most often for load-development--i.e., changing charge weights by perhaps two-tenths grain after ten loads, that sort of weighing. I have other beam scales (505, 1010), but I need the Lee because of its small size for a smaller bench now., combined with an adjustable charge bar in the (Autodisk) measure and familiarity with the powders I use lessens the amount of time to derive an accurate charge weight and then test it by five to ten repetitions.
But, the real trick for me was when I understood the technique for adjusting the vernier.
Obviously, this list does not discuss all the tasks in keeping a balance beam scale operating accurately. I assume you know those--but the only real negative I've found was that, on a twenty-year old scale, the razor balance point was 'rusty'--not just grunged up with airborne detrius. I replaced that scale with a new one, as I didn't trust accuracy any longer.
Jim H.
Last edited:
