1st Try With Camo Finish On SKS Using Alumahyde

How does the Alumahyde Flecktarn camo finish look on this SKS?

  • I think it came out REALLY good.

    Votes: 20 48.8%
  • You ruined something that might have been salvagable if you did a regular blue job and wood stain.

    Votes: 1 2.4%
  • It came out fairly well, especially for your first attempt

    Votes: 20 48.8%

  • Total voters
    41
  • Poll closed .
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Browning

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Just figured I'd show off my first try with that Alumahyde camo paint from Brownells on a beat up mess of an SKS that I bought awhile back at the gun show. There were several missing parts, it was missing some of the blueing and it looked like it had been used for pole vaulting at some point in it's past.

Alumahyde Paint
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117


083002012swatch.jpg

First Step: Degreasing it, sanding it lightly and using an iron and a wet cloth to get rid of the most obvious dents, scratches and gouges were the first steps I took. Here it is in a picture after the first bit of sanding and ironing and the initial degreasing before I stripped it completely and took it off the stock to do an even more detailed job on it.

Middle of the 1st step.
Camo SKS Prep Work.jpg

Second Step: Completing prep work by taking it apart completely and getting rid of those stubborn patches of grease/oil with purple power, acetone and carburetor cleaner and then doing a little more light sanding.

Base Coat: Then I did a base coat in park. grey on the stock, handguard and bolt cover and then I hung it up to dry for a few days on a bent hanger from the ceiling in my garage.

Bulldog Arms "Male" Camo Stencils: I bought the male stencils from Bulldog Arms and then I stuck the stickers on in a semi-random pattern all over the gun and gun parts. The only thing is that after I painted one of the colors over the base coat to start the camo job I tried to pull the stickers off a couple of days later and the surface area that was underneath created an slight indention because of the paint buildup around it and it pulled off a little bit of the paint as well. So I ended up having to sand it smooth again, apply a new coat of Park. Grey and then hung it up and waited a few more days.

Homemade "Female" Camo Templates And Taping It Off: Using Flecktarn camo shapes and a hobby exacto knife I made some male camo stencils out of a few patterns that I managed to find online and stuck some of the male stencils that I had left from Bulldog Arms and then cut them out after sticking them to a piece of paper. Then I taped over the gas ports, the trigger, the safety and the other controls and areas that I didn't want to paint using some of that blue painters tape after I blocked off the barrel and inside of the reciever with cotton or ear plugs.

Bulldog Arms: If you buy stencils make sure and buy the female ones
http://catalog.bulldogarms.com/

Painting It: I had originally bought just grey tone colors, but then I also ended up buying some Earth Brown, OD Green and Matte Black for another project gun that a buddy's doing. I painted it using the stencils at random after hanging it so that it was flat using a second hanger. Then after painting it I dried it initially with my wifes hair dryer and then I left it to dry for a few more days (it dries on it's own, you don't need to bake it on) before putting it back together.

Here's what I ended up with.
Camo SKS Facing Left On Flecktarn Parka.jpg

So what do you think?

Did I "Bubba" this SKS even though it wasn't exactly in pristine condition to begin with and even though SKS's aren't exactly rare to begin with? The few friends and family members who've seen it seem to love it and to me it looks better in person than it does in pictures, but I prefer to get an honest opinion from strangers who aren't afraid of hurting someone's feelings.
 
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I am not a big fan of the sks, with that said, yours is one I would be ok with having. ;)
 
Not to my personal taste but a pretty nice job on a salvage piece. I'd definitely say an improvement over your desciption of the original.
/Bryan
 
Alumahyde II

I'm a big fan of Brownell's Alumahyde II. I used it in OD green on a Turk Mauser sporter that I built. You did not ruin your SKS as you can remove the paint and refinish the rifle if you change your mind.
 
Well thank you for the feedback on it, I was kind of worried.
 
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Looks good to me.

I wouldn't worry too much about isolated negative feedback. Some people just don't appreciate some of the things we are trying to achieve.

If you like the results, that is what counts.
 
I have painted many rifles with Alumahyde and love the heck outta that paint. I think you did great and if you like it that is all that really matters!
 
I'd say it looks pretty good, especially on the buttstock part. Personally I would have gone straight black on the metal parts though.
 
Not that I have much experience but you can use a stencil lifted off of the surface to soften the transition on the edges of two color. You would have to play around with it a bit to see what you like & what works for you.
Camo is not as easy to do as it looks. You never feel you have it right.

I think do did a great job.
 
DirksterG30 : I like it, Browning. BTW - Is that the Gunsite Raven logo on the buttstock?

Yep, it sure is. :D

I know that it's not a Scout bolt action rifle, a tricked out AR15 or a .308 battle rifle like what you would usually associate with Gunsite, but it needed an additional extra touch and I always liked Col. Coopers ideas and teaching methods.

I just printed out the logo from Google, cut it out with a fine point hobby exacto knife and then just painted over a spot where I'd left a little more green and brown instead of Black so that it would contrast a little. I think it still kind of blends in since it's still Matte Black over O.D. Green and Earth Brown like the rest of the rifle, but it stands out a little too.
 
Better Pictures Of It.

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I'm not exactly a great photographer, but you can get a better idea of what it looks like.
 

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That will do much better than the Army's digital camo. They deleted the black from the prototype digital camo pattern and the it does not work well. Except on paisley couches.

How tough does the final results seem?
 
Thank you very much.

I guess for the most part my fears that people would think that I ruined it were completely groundless.

Only 1 person didn't like it out of 33 votes, not bad if you ask me.

I might try and refinish an old surplus pistol next by going with a Matte Black slide and a O.D. Green frame.

Kind of like this one someone else did, just a different gun.

Duracoat Bersa.jpg
(click on picture to enlarge)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=538502
 
"...not exactly a great photographer..." You take a dandy picture.
Take the thing out in the back yard and put it in a bush. Then move back ten yards or so. Do the straight lines go away? The purpose of camouflage is to break up the outline of stuff. I suspect your pattern will, but you may want to wrap some black over the top and bottom edges. Just like at the front of the rear sight.
You may find the paint may come off the steel too. Alumahyde is for Al.
The Firestorm looks like it's coated in rust. May be the picture though.
 
Ya done good. The SKS is an underated tool. Not a precision rifle, but a good inexpensive tool. You made it a little better. I like the Raven. I'm a Gunsite alumnus and hold fond memories.
 
Sunray : Take the thing out in the back yard and put it in a bush. Then move back ten yards or so. Do the straight lines go away? The purpose of camouflage is to break up the outline of stuff. I suspect your pattern will, but you may want to wrap some black over the top and bottom edges. Just like at the front of the rear sight.

I actually did that.

The Flecktarn camo pattern worked REAL well for that bush out back.

I took some pictures of it in the bush, but they didn't turn out too well because of the shadows.


You may find the paint may come off the steel too. Alumahyde is for Al.

That's just a name.

It can actually be used on aluminum, steel, plastic or wood.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117

Durable Epoxy Base Paint Withstands Bore Cleaners & Solvents


The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethelyene. Today’s new family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop.
 
Take it to the woods, set it down and walk at least 50 yards. Can you find it?? If so you need to try again :evil:

It looks pretty darn good to me!!!!!!

Tony
 
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