DUCKNDAWG
Member
I would measure all your brass and find the shortest one trim them ALL to that length so the neck tension will be the same load them and shoot!!!
.223 casings below trim to length
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Jacka L Ope
Member
Edited for clarity...
Primer crimp is primarily for military ammo to enhance reliability with automatic weapons and prevents a primer from backing out under conditions of harsh handling or sloppy headspacing which could lead to a malfunction.
Yes. That is exactly it.
Yes. There are various primer pocket reamers, size large and small, on the market from various vendors. For example:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=643126
Various hand tools may certainly are cheaper, however, when processing cases in bulk, you'll likely rapidly tire of their use. Said, they are necessary to start with and you're free to decide later whether to upgrade.
Cheers!
Primer crimp is primarily for military ammo to enhance reliability with automatic weapons and prevents a primer from backing out under conditions of harsh handling or sloppy headspacing which could lead to a malfunction.
Yes. That is exactly it.
Yes. There are various primer pocket reamers, size large and small, on the market from various vendors. For example:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=643126
Various hand tools may certainly are cheaper, however, when processing cases in bulk, you'll likely rapidly tire of their use. Said, they are necessary to start with and you're free to decide later whether to upgrade.
Cheers!
Jacka L Ope
Member
Mine is slightly different, as is my process and goal. Ultimately though, my need is safely met.
(To improve upon military cartridge primer/bolt face clearance, I further ream and uniform the primer pocket depth to .131" (industry specification is .132" max.), square the bottom corners and seat primers to a uniform depth of approximately .006" below flush (industry max. seating depth is .008"). Never required, adds more work to the case preparation process yet an extra margin of safety against slam-fires.)
(To improve upon military cartridge primer/bolt face clearance, I further ream and uniform the primer pocket depth to .131" (industry specification is .132" max.), square the bottom corners and seat primers to a uniform depth of approximately .006" below flush (industry max. seating depth is .008"). Never required, adds more work to the case preparation process yet an extra margin of safety against slam-fires.)
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coloradokevin
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Thanks for the updates everyone... And I do appreciate the time that you guys took to throw some pictures up there for me!
Glad I was at least on the right track about spotting the crimp.
I have no real specialized tools at this time, but thought I'd play around with a piece of brass tonight. I tried using my RCBS chamfer/debur tool on the primer pocket, in an attempt to open up the crimp area to take a new primer.
Primer was a bit stiff going in, though as a newbie I don't know what they normally feel like... so it could be normal. Anyway, the primer seems to have set okay, so I suppose this method might work for my initial set of brass?
Ahh, yes, my next issue. I played around with bullet seating today, just with an empty un-primed casing for sake of adjusting my die. Bullets were seating easily, but the tension seems to be much higher than factory (at least based on the amount of trouble I had in pulling the bullet back out with my plastic hammer-puller deal -- of course, the lack of powder weight in the case could have had an effect with this method of bullet removal, I suppose). So, might have to play with that a bit too!
Might I add: If any of you have children, be sure to teach this stuff to them! It sure is a PITA to learn it all on your own (though I do greatly appreciate the internet advice you all have provided)
Glad I was at least on the right track about spotting the crimp.
I have no real specialized tools at this time, but thought I'd play around with a piece of brass tonight. I tried using my RCBS chamfer/debur tool on the primer pocket, in an attempt to open up the crimp area to take a new primer.
Primer was a bit stiff going in, though as a newbie I don't know what they normally feel like... so it could be normal. Anyway, the primer seems to have set okay, so I suppose this method might work for my initial set of brass?
duckndog said:
Ahh, yes, my next issue. I played around with bullet seating today, just with an empty un-primed casing for sake of adjusting my die. Bullets were seating easily, but the tension seems to be much higher than factory (at least based on the amount of trouble I had in pulling the bullet back out with my plastic hammer-puller deal -- of course, the lack of powder weight in the case could have had an effect with this method of bullet removal, I suppose). So, might have to play with that a bit too!
Might I add: If any of you have children, be sure to teach this stuff to them! It sure is a PITA to learn it all on your own (though I do greatly appreciate the internet advice you all have provided)
Jacka L Ope
Member
The RCBS chamfer/debur tool will work in lieu of a primer pocket reamer. As with any of these tools, excepting a primer pocket swager, exercise caution not to remove any more metal than is necessary to remove the crimp.
With practice and using a slow and even pressure to seat primers, you'll soon recognize the "feel" of a properly seated primer as it enters the pocket. You should feel "some" resistance but not "stiff" nor anything unexpected.
After seating a primer, rub a finger over them to ensure primers are seated at least flush with the base and never high.
Cheers!
I wish there had been the internet when I started. Sounds like you’re on the right track and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Lots of helpful people here.
I would recommend buying one of these to help setting up your sizing die -
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=477756&t=11082005
Some people like these also -
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23612/catid/3/_223_Dillon_Stainless_Steel_Case_Gage
The RCBS Mic will take actual measurements of the case. If your cartridge/case properly fits in the Dillon gage it should also fit in your chamber. I have both and find that I use the RCBS Mic more.
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