.223 Rem. What dies to buy?

[chagasrod]

I'm planning on reloading .223 and i'm already getting confused with what type of dies to get.

Full sizer, Neck sizer etc etc

Can someone shed a light on this issue for me?

Thanks

P.S. It will be a informal shooting platform. No "Ultimate" accuracy needed.

 

[zac_christy]

I use Lee, it has the Full length re-sizing die and the Factory Crimp Die. I like them and they were cheap.

 

[ole farmerbuck]

If using a bolt gun you can use neck sizing dies for a few reloadings, then you will need to fls. So in other words, get both. If semi auto....fl only.

 

[taliv]

you need a full length sizer and a seater die. if you're going to do a lot, or work with military brass with crimped primers, i'd consider getting the Lee decapping die. if you're going for accuracy, no need for crimping, but if you're making military style ammo with bullets that have a cannelure, i'd recommend crimping, for which you will need a crimping die.

bare minimum: FL sizer, seater
optional: crimping, decapping

 

[chagasrod]

Thanks guys!!!!!

 

[mongoose33]

If I were buying dies again, I'd get the RCBS full-length small-base die--again. I load for several ARs, and the nice thing about the small-base die is that it provides a little more margin of error if you find a chamber that's a little tight.

 

[Rancho Relaxo]

I really love my Forster Benchrest seater die for my 223s. I didn't get the micrometer top one, the unmarked one worked just fine for me.

 

[Walkalong]

I use my Redding full length sizer on all .223 brass. I use a standard Redding seater for plinking ammo, and a Forster seater for accuracy loading. I really like the Forster sizers too.

Unless you have a tight necked match chamber that requires neck turning, I would full length size.

If you want to have more control of neck diameter/bullet tension, use a Redding sizer that uses neck bushings.

 

[Seattlefungus]

Things to watch for with .223 brass. If you get some of the surplus brass. Much of it will have swagged primer pockets. I've seen them break even the Lee decapers. Then even if you get the primer out. The primer pocket needs to be de-swagged. Dillon and RCBS make tools for pocket de-swaging. The Dillon 1050 does it automatically. For all the others, it's by hand. As for dies, I've used them all. They all do a decent job. The Redding micrometer seating die is very nice for precision and consistency. To crimp or not depends mostly on what type of rifle you are loading for. For best results in loading from a magazine a solid crimp is advisable, as a bullet being recessed by catching on a feed ramp can cause extreme over pressure.

 

[Walkalong]

The primers in military brass are crimped in. After decapping the brass the crimp must be removed, either by reaming or swageing.

 

[mallc]

Used

I bought some really ugly .223 dies for $2 at a flea market that work just fine once cleaned up. I don't think you can go wrong - if you really mean what you say about "No "Ultimate" accuracy needed". On the other hand Redding and Forster do make really nice tooling.

I personally full length size with a Dillion size trim in a RT1200 trimmer, seat and crimp bulk runs with Dillion dies in a Dillion XL 650. Personal rounds go through a Redding competition seater on a Hornady LNL.

I just got a Hornady Concentricity guage so I'm just starting to compare run-out but so far...the stock Dillon seating die has a repeatable 0.005' which is pretty darn small.

Hope this helps.
Scott