223 Wylde 24in Bull Upper

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45/30-06OKIE

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Put this beast together tonight!
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Ballistic Advantage 24in 223 Wylde 1/8 bull barrel.
Areo Precision Upper Receiver and Charging Handle.
Toolcraft Nickel Boron BCG.
Midwest Industries SP15-M Handguard.
I was going to use their Quad Rail handguard but it would not clear my .936 gas block... So I ordered this one and returned the other one. It will live on my SBR lower (insert joke about it being a LBR lower with this chunky thing on it lol) for now till next month when I order a few things to complete my Areo Precision OG Retro lower and a LPVO scope for it. Sigh, why must I be cursed with wanting cool stuff... About 680 bucks for the upper as you see it. 120 bucks cheaper than a Rock River complete upper. They are 800 and up depending on options.
 
Nice looking upper, let us all know how it shoots. I want a similar setup, and I like ballistic advantage barrels...
Yeah I put my KAC iron sights I've had kicking around for a while on it so I can at least shoot it some till I get the lpvo in. I found a Sig Tango 1-10 LPVO with mount for 450 from Chattanooga so I'll most likely order that.
 
A LPVO on a 24" Varmintish barrel????
That belongs on the SBR lol.
Nice looking upper, I've built a couple like that before one 224 Valkyrie and an AR10 in 243. Hope you like it better than Idid, I ended up selling both barrels and now have 20" H-Bar profile on both guns and the 243 is a 6 Creed.
 
A LPVO on a 24" Varmintish barrel????
That belongs on the SBR lol.
Nice looking upper, I've built a couple like that before one 224 Valkyrie and an AR10 in 243. Hope you like it better than Idid, I ended up selling both barrels and now have 20" H-Bar profile on both guns and the 243 is a 6 Creed.
A 1-10 on a 10.5 5.56? That's seems a bit excessive in my mind but I like red dots or irons on short guns.
 
I did the final put-together this week of something similar... 18" BA 1:7 5.56mm barrel. I've used BA barrels on 2 builds, now... and so far they have shot well. Their QC could use a little dust-off, though. The muzzle threads on this barrel were not cut well, I had to chase them down to get my hider on more than 2 turns.

Why 1:8"?
 
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I did the final put-together this week of something similar... 22" BA 1:7 5.56mm barrel. I've used BA barrels on 2 builds, now... and so far they have shot well. Their QC could use a little dust-off, though. The muzzle threads on this barrel were not cut well, I had to chase them down to get my hider on more than 2 turns.

Why 1:8"?
I think 1x8 is the best twist rate
 
Why 1:8"?
With a 24" a 1:8" twist is about perfect for anything you can run mag length, it isn't until you try to shoot longer than mag length with 80s that you'd need a faster twist.
ETA 1:8 would probably still work OK for the 75 ELDM and the 80.5 Berger my Valkyrie has a 1:7.7" and is pretty ideal for the 80.5 Berger.
 
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Good looking upper.
I like that handguard, been thinking of swapping that one for the 15" Wilson Combat I have.

I kinda looked at the Sig 1-10 for my 18" AR along with some others and used a 1-8 and 4-16 for a bit.
I went with a 2.5-10x42 and have been happy with that.

Arken has a new 4-16 out that is a bit smaller and nearly a pound lighter than the SH4.
I keep telling myself that I don't need it but I may get it for the 18" and put the 2.5-10 on the 14.7"
 
Why is 1:7 usually cited as the best length for 69grn and over? I'm not arguing... it's a genuine question.
Long story short too fast doesn't cause near the problem too slow does and many barrel makers don't make a 1:8, so it's a choice between 1:7 and 1:9. A 1:9 often won't shoot 69+.
Stability is also velocity dependent so a 12-16" barrel is going to be better at 1:7 .
Also I'm probably deeper in the weeds than most people go, when I say a 1:8 is a little better for a 24" barrel than a 1:7 we're probably talking may be a .5" difference in group size at 500 yards.
 
I did the final put-together this week of something similar... 18" BA 1:7 5.56mm barrel. I've used BA barrels on 2 builds, now... and so far they have shot well. Their QC could use a little dust-off, though. The muzzle threads on this barrel were not cut well, I had to chase them down to get my hider on more than 2 turns.

Why 1:8"?
Well 1:8 is most common on the 24in barrels I've seen, so I guess they think that if your loading 223/5.56 ammo for an AR magazine then you won't be shooting anything heavier than 77gr. And velocity has a lot to do with stability as well so idk. I'm not a ballistician lol.
 
Good looking upper.
I like that handguard, been thinking of swapping that one for the 15" Wilson Combat I have.

I kinda looked at the Sig 1-10 for my 18" AR along with some others and used a 1-8 and 4-16 for a bit.
I went with a 2.5-10x42 and have been happy with that.

Arken has a new 4-16 out that is a bit smaller and nearly a pound lighter than the SH4.
I keep telling myself that I don't need it but I may get it for the 18" and put the 2.5-10 on the 14.7"
Yeah if you are planning a .936 bull barrel build, this one may very well be one of the only ones that fit other than buying a complete Rock River upper with a free float handguard already installed. And yeah I think I'm going to get the 1-10 and then I still need to get a 6-25 for my 6.5PRC bolt gun... Sigh...
 
I just listed a Vortex HST 6-24X in buy sell trade. I have another 6-24X and a 4-16X on eBay
Plus I have an AR Stoner 20moa 30mm mount for sale.
 
Long story short too fast doesn't cause near the problem too slow does and many barrel makers don't make a 1:8, so it's a choice between 1:7 and 1:9. A 1:9 often won't shoot 69+.
Stability is also velocity dependent so a 12-16" barrel is going to be better at 1:7 .

And velocity has a lot to do with stability as well so idk. I'm not a ballistician lol.

Well... I know my 1:7 Colt does NOT like 55grn... but my 1:7 16" RRA does, so, again velocity may be a key there. Ballistics are a bit like French to me... I just look at the target and see how close I poked the holes... assuming I hit the target.
 
Well... I know my 1:7 Colt does NOT like 55grn... but my 1:7 16" RRA does, so, again velocity may be a key there. Ballistics are a bit like French to me... I just look at the target and see how close I poked the holes... assuming I hit the target.
What length is your Colt barrel? And yeah I'm kinda the same way lol. Like if the bullets touch each other I'm happy lol.
 
Long story short too fast doesn't cause near the problem too slow does and many barrel makers don't make a 1:8, so it's a choice between 1:7 and 1:9. A 1:9 often won't shoot 69+.
Stability is also velocity dependent so a 12-16" barrel is going to be better at 1:7 .
Also I'm probably deeper in the weeds than most people go, when I say a 1:8 is a little better for a 24" barrel than a 1:7 we're probably talking may be a .5" difference in group size at 500 yards.

Another factor to consider, in a barrel that long you can get the lighter weight bullets up fast enough that a 1:7 barrel will literally tear them apart mid air from centrifugal force, bring spun too fast.

A 1:8 will buy you a little more wiggle room with the lighter bullets, but don't really cost you anything with the heavy bullets.
 
20” H-bar. With 55’s we are talking 4” at 100yds…
Wow, that's very not good, lol. So no 55gr bullets at all will group well? Huh, do the 68,69,75,77 range work well? I wonder if the 30-40 grain bullets will group well? Cause that's wierd if everything BUT 55gr runs fine.
 
Wow, that's very not good, lol. So no 55gr bullets at all will group well? Huh, do the 68,69,75,77 range work well? I wonder if the 30-40 grain bullets will group well? Cause that's wierd if everything BUT 55gr runs fine.

I don't know... I've never run anything lighter than 55grn in it, but, yes, 62grn and 69grn work very well in it. The 62's are HPBT's... so they are pretty long, compared to the 55grn FMJ's, so there may be something to the bullet length, etc.

I'm planning on working with both the H-bar and my new DRM build with the 69grn SMK's to see how they handle it, comparatively... then I'll move to the heavies.
 
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