270 winchester reloading needs

Status
Not open for further replies.

cajun48

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
42
The main press is a lee clasic 4 hole turret and will be loading 270 winchester. Allready have scales, reloading manuals etc. At last the money is all in one place (my pocket) so here's the list:
For reloading,
Lee 4 hole turret
Lee deluxe 3 die set (full length resizer will be used on a single stage for "range" brass)
Hornaday capd linkage kit (to use my RCBS Uniflo)
Lee factory crimp die
For case prep,
Lee zip trim
Lee case gage/holder
Lee case conditioning combo kit
What am I missing and what would be nice to have?
aj b
 
skip the crimp die. I find it not necessary for rifle unless its tube feed. Do you have a hand priming tool? IMO you should just put the Uniflow on a stand by itself. It would be more versatile that way and easier to use.
 
well factory crimp is For sure NOT necessary for bolt or semi and widely not reccommended. Not saying you NEED it for tubes, but i find its "convienent" IMO for my 30-30, but I do not use on 45/70....YMMV
 
Last edited:
A little more clarification. The rifle is a Marlin xl7 in 270 winchester. It has been restocked with a Boyd featherweight thumbhole laminate stock. I've been reloading (pistol) for a little more than a year (by no means a pro). The setup on the turret will be 1. Collet/decap, 2. powder drop, 3. bullet seating and 4. factory crimp.
Thanks for the tip on the resizing lube (forgot I needed it) and it is now on the order list.
Please keep the info coming!!
aj b
 
I load for a .25-06 XL7. Crimp isn't needed, but it can make a load more or less accurate. Proper neck tension and equal neck thickness around the bullet helps if you do not crimp.
I do not crimp for my .25-06, but I turn the necks.
 
I agree. I wouldn't crimp to start off with. Skip the factory crimp die.
Use imperial sizing wax.
 
Was looking on the internet about sizing wax and came across a few posts that say something about lubing the inside of the neck. I was under the impression that only the case (body) needed lubing and then only if your doing a full length resize. Can anyone shed some light??
Eb1, thanks for mentioning imperial wax. Comes highly recommended by others in the internet (and everybody knows the internet is never wrong)!! lol
Craigman, again from the "source", a few reloaders recommend crimping only to attempt to tighten a group. Don't think a deer can tell the difference between a moa group or a 2 moa group. A good solid hit in the right spot is a "1 shot dead" in either case!!
 
Last edited:
you need a little lube inside the neck for when the expander ball slides through the neck on the way out of the die

i just use a nylon brush with a light film of imperial die wax on it to put just a little bit inside the neck. there are aerosol spray lubes, dry lubes, homemade stuff, etc. plenty of options. most of them will work.
 
rivrat, would powdered graphite work or just use the imperial wax??
aj b
 
I tried it it works well but if you use the dry lube for the neck put that on and then put the wax on the case body
 
Cajun48,

I use both Imperial sizing die wax and Imperial dry neck lube.

The wax is great for providing lubrication for the die and the outside of the case, but I like to start off by dipping the case into the dry neck lube. That keeps the neck from being too gooey or conversely not lubed enough. Then I use my thumb and index finger to lightly lube the case once it is in the shell holder.

I know everyone has their own preference's but I find the neck lube keeps the expander ball happy while the case/die lube does the work on the body of the case.

Just my two cents.

-Steve
 
I think another good way is to use the dry neck lube then hornady one shot case lube. The hornady is great for normal loading but not for forming odd cases
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top