Kor
Member
Hey, all - my current favorite evil black rifle is an Armalite AR-180B, which handles fast and shoots nicely in the close-range stages. However, I'm having an "operator headspace & timing" problem shooting the "long-range stage" at the club matches I shoot, which is usually set up with a mix of close-range cardboard targets and steel plates from 50-200yds.
I already know I'm supposed to line up the front sight ABOVE the rear peep for the close-range cardboard, because the bullet is traveling below the line of sight that close to the muzzle - I just have to keep drilling that little factoid into my thick noggin. I STILL find myself looking through the peep for the front sight, though.
From 75-200yds, the steel targets are nice big gongs, either 16" squares or steel IPSC silhouettes, and they don't give me too much trouble. What really gets my goat are the 6" "lollipop" targets that they set up at 50yds, which bob around on fiberglass poles after you hit them once(and which you have to shoot TWICE, natch). Even when I call the shot as good, I still can't seem to wrap my mind around the bullet's trajectory at 50yds.
Okay, here's the technical details:
- AR180B rifle has a 18" barrel with 2" of muzzle brake, 1/9" twist.
- Ammo is 55gr milsurp-equivalent, Winchester or South African PMP.
- Sights are, for practical intents/purposes, M16A1-type(elevation-adjustable front, windage-only-adjustable rear, 2-position flip-peeps), 19.5" sight radius. FYI, I'm currently using Trijicon iron sights, with a slightly thicker, tritium-enhanced front sight blade instead of a GI-type post.
- Current zero is about 4" high at 200yds Known Distance(6-o'clock hold on 8" steel plate), using the small 200yd+ aperture.
- The ballistic charts all say the bullet should still be within 2" of line-of-sight all the way out to around 250yds, but you couldn't tell that by the way I seem to shoot...
Any 3-gunners or Action Rifle shooters got any suggestions on how I should zero my rifle so I can engage steel from 50-200yds with as little adjustment as possible between targets at different ranges? Or should I keep my zero as I have it, and learn to hold-under on the 50-yd steel?
Thanks in advance!
I already know I'm supposed to line up the front sight ABOVE the rear peep for the close-range cardboard, because the bullet is traveling below the line of sight that close to the muzzle - I just have to keep drilling that little factoid into my thick noggin. I STILL find myself looking through the peep for the front sight, though.
From 75-200yds, the steel targets are nice big gongs, either 16" squares or steel IPSC silhouettes, and they don't give me too much trouble. What really gets my goat are the 6" "lollipop" targets that they set up at 50yds, which bob around on fiberglass poles after you hit them once(and which you have to shoot TWICE, natch). Even when I call the shot as good, I still can't seem to wrap my mind around the bullet's trajectory at 50yds.
Okay, here's the technical details:
- AR180B rifle has a 18" barrel with 2" of muzzle brake, 1/9" twist.
- Ammo is 55gr milsurp-equivalent, Winchester or South African PMP.
- Sights are, for practical intents/purposes, M16A1-type(elevation-adjustable front, windage-only-adjustable rear, 2-position flip-peeps), 19.5" sight radius. FYI, I'm currently using Trijicon iron sights, with a slightly thicker, tritium-enhanced front sight blade instead of a GI-type post.
- Current zero is about 4" high at 200yds Known Distance(6-o'clock hold on 8" steel plate), using the small 200yd+ aperture.
- The ballistic charts all say the bullet should still be within 2" of line-of-sight all the way out to around 250yds, but you couldn't tell that by the way I seem to shoot...
Any 3-gunners or Action Rifle shooters got any suggestions on how I should zero my rifle so I can engage steel from 50-200yds with as little adjustment as possible between targets at different ranges? Or should I keep my zero as I have it, and learn to hold-under on the 50-yd steel?
Thanks in advance!