.30-06 on a Dillon press?

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Nanook

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As the subject asks, are any of you using your Dillons to load .30-06? I haven't been so far, but I'm considering it. I'm thinking about buying the conversion kit for this caliber and giving it a whirl.
So far I've only done handgun calibers on my 550, but I'm in an experimental mood.
I just processed about 150 once-fired brass and needless to say things could be sped up a bit by using the Dillon. I'm aware it can be done, but is it worth it?
What are your thoughts, gang?
 
i,for 1 can't think of a reason:uhoh:

quick changes are cheap:D

threatt'en me with a good time:neener:

don't be scared:eek:

clown
 
I'm sure you're aware that .45ACP uses the same primer system and shellplate as 30-06. Always check for calibers that use the same parts when switching calibers! ;)
 
Nero, I'm aware of that, just need the powder funnel for .30-06 to proceed. Good point though, some may not have known that.

Looks like I'm just gonna have to do it. :p

Here comes another toolhead / stand while I'm at it. I already have an extra powder measure, I'll set it up with the large powder bar.
 
While you're waiting for the new goodies, order up a neck sizing die. The one I use on 30-06 in my 550 is from Lee; works OK and was inexpensive. I use a Redding neck sizing (bushing) die for .223; works much better and was about 2X the money.

Other dies are Dillon. If its a bolt gun, you don't need to (shouldn't) crimp.

Dillon powder measure doesn't work well with some larger grain stick powders (ex. IMR 4198). I'm using H 4350 in my '06 loads and am getting very consistant throws.
 
I load .308 and .223 on mine. Most of my rifle ammo is turned out with the most careful practices. I usually load in a single stage mode with my 550. First priming and neck sizing, then dropping the powder charge. Then after all the cases are charged from the powder measure, I weigh all the powder charges one at a time, bringing them to the desired weight with a powder trickeler. Then back to the press to seat the bullet.
For blasting ammo, I'll set up and crank that handle. I have found, as already stated, using a fine ball type powder works best. Like BL-C2 for the .223.
 
I load .30-06 on my XL650. I generally size/deprime the brass on my Lyman Orange Crusher, then tumble in corncobs to get the lube off.

I have an RCBS "depriming" die in the size station to knock the particles of corncob out of the flash holes.

I use H414 powder, so there are no powder measure issues. 760 is almost identical, BTW.

Since these loads will be used in several different rifles, I like to full length resize, and apply a light taper crimp.

If they were for use in the same bolt action rifle, I would use a neck die on the 650 and skip the separate sizing.

If my cases are already "processed" I can easily load 500 per hour, withour rushing.
 
I do a lot of .30-06 on my Dillon 550. You can just start putting on cases and cycle them through the progressive sequence though. You need to size and deprime the case, take it off, clean off the lube, check it for leangth, trime if needed, swage the primer pocket, it it is military and one time fired. I usually do this for 100 or so cases then I reload them by seating the primer, truning it to the powder die, send it up to get powder, then I put another case in stage 1 and seat a primer, rotate the shell plate as it rotates I look into the case to ensure it has powder and the right level, then Place a bullet in the one under the bullet seater and rise it up, thus seating a bullet in one and dropping powder in the other. I do this for all 100, then start over. Works fine and I get great rounds.
 
Just finished a couple hundred .30-06 rounds...

On my 550. Gotta go light on the case lube, it can easily accumulate in the sizing die and cause lube dimples. Otherwise, a piece of cake!
 
Why not?

I load about 400 an hour of .223 Rem on my Dillon 550 and those 55 grain rifle bullets just aren't as fast as looking pistol.

But with 30-06, bigger bullets, easier to reload.

Yes in deedy you can and should;)
 
I've been doing it for two years without problems. Just make sure you have boxer primed brass and take your time at first. In the beginning I had some berdan primer brass mixed in my buck-o-brass. D'oh!
 
Yeah, but Dan, when you called, I bet Dillon sent you replacement decapping pins for free. :D
 
yeah ! ,why not ?

Poidog ,
I load mine similar to Cheygriz . I use a RCBS die for first size/decap , case goes to Gracey power trimmer then pocket cleaning then corncobs . Case is then relubed and sent to dillon 550 with another size die set slightly tighter and passes headspace guage . From there it's as easy as anything else , I use surplus IMR 4895 with no problems . Ammo come off the press and is sent to final polish to remove lube ueing about five times as much volume of cobs as volume of ammo .
Ammo is loaded to M2 specification or a little less depending on powder on hand . No ammo problems after 8M rounds .

Jack

Wanted : etched Garand bolts , [email protected]
 
Jacks308, I'll most likely do it the same way as you and Cheygriz. The decapping/resizing will probably go better on my single-stage RCBS, and then back to the Dillon to finish up after trimming.
I'm ordering the necessary items this week. Thanks for all the replies, everybody.
 
I have 2 hungry Garands to feed so I'm loading 30-06 on my Dillion RL550b.

I get all my componets from places like gibrass and hitech. I'm on my 4th or 5th 8lb keg of surplus IMR4895

The bottom line on loading 30-06 with a Dillion.... bring your checkbook...... because once you get the case prep process automated you'll be cranking rounds through the press as fast as you can pull the handle.

The case prep process is the kicker....

I recommend a "trim to length" of 2.485 before you size the brass. Garands aren't all that fussy about brass length if it's slightly over and you are using a Lee Factory crimp in the last stage.

You can do case prep two ways,
1. You can use a spray on dry lube and just feed the brass to the dillion without worrying about cleaning the primer pockets. That means you got kind of a sticky pile of rounds that need to be manually cleaned when you are done. I do this most of the time.

2. You can use a single stage press like a rock chucker to size and deprime. Then clean the primer pocket, then re tumble the brass to get the gunk off. "Warning", you must set up the first stage sizing die to have the primer punch push out any media stuck in the primer pocket, or just inspect the pocket and clean it before the first stage.

Always use a lee factory crimp at the last stage so case length is not a real issue.

You'll get real good with the Garand when you got a lot of rounds to shoot. Once you get used to shootin' those puppies you'll be able to slap a new clip in without taking the gun off your shoulder. You can pour out a constant stream of fire.

See you at the John C. Garand Matches.

Your humble 14 century mercenary and Garand shooter
Captal de Buch
 
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