308 cases getting stuck in sizing die

[dbarnhart]

In the past several months since I started reloading, I've decapped and size a few thousand 223 cases with no problem but I'm pretty new to 308.

The cases are once-fired (by me). The die is an RCBS 308 SB die. Press is a Rock Crusher. I've used two different lubes: RCBS lube and Imperial Sizing wax and it happens with both. it doesn't seem to matter how little or how much lube I use. I'm making sure the full length of the case is lubed, including the shoulder and neck.

The case seems to get stuck with about 3/8-inch of it exposed below the die. No matter how much strength I use, I am not able to lower the ram. When this happens, I've been able to get the case out by unscrewing the retaining nuts on the decapping rod and giving it a few strong taps with a mallet.

What's going on here?

 

[codefour]

Is there any particular reason you are using the small base dies.? I shoot a lot of .308. In an AR-10, M1A, and a various bolt guns. I have never had a problem getting .308 to chamber in any of them using RCBS standard two-die sets in .308. The reason I say this is the small base dies make the brass just a bit smaller requiring more force to size. And I too use a Rock Chucker.

I only lube the body and the inside of the neck, not the shoulder or outside of the neck. You may try just lubing the body and inside the neck. Another thing I learned is not to "cam over" on the sizing die. That too can help as well. I use both imperial sizing wax and the RCBS lube pad depending on how fast I want to go.

By no means am I an expert like some of the other THR members. This is just my experience. I hope this helps.

 

[dbarnhart]

I'm using SB dies only because that's what I 'inherited'. I bought a bunch of misc used reloading stuff at a really good price and it included the SB dies.

 

[loadedround]

I agree with Codefour that normally SB dies are not needed to load 308's fired in a M1A or similar semi auto rifle. Have you also tried dry lube on the inside of the neck? Cases just may be hanging up on the the expander button.

 

[Cherokee]

The SB die is not necessary, I have used strandard RCBS and Lee FL size dies for my M1A and Ruger bolt 308.

 

[steve4102]

Sounds like a used die, yes? Have you taken it apart and inspected for rust inside? Also make sure you do not have the decapping stem set to low allowing it to make contact with the base of the case.

 

[longdayjake]

I have found that because most reloading lubes are water based, RCBS dies tend to rust a little if they aren't used for a long time. That rust will make it VERY difficult to size brass. If I don't use my dies for a long time I take a little bit of steel wool and put it around a drill bit. Then I spin it inside that die for about a minute or two to polish up the die walls. That seems to help and you won't be making the die too large since it is a small base die.

Oh and its a Rockchucker not Rock Crusher.

 

[BADUNAME37]

Are the cases scratched at all, giving you an indication of where the problem might be?

Are you certain the dies are all proper for the cases you are resizing?

Do you have the decapping rod arrangement up high enough to push primers out -- yet not hit the inside of the bottom of the case?

 

[ranger335v]

" it doesn't seem to matter how little or how much lube I use."

Yes, it does. Lube the lower part of the case as well as you're lubing the neck an you will be fine, SB or no.

 

[BADUNAME37]

Didn't the older dies have a tiny hole in the top to let out the air as the ram went up and the die entered the sizing die?

Look for that hole near the top threads, clean it out with a pin or very thin wire.

 

[mbonner]

Get new dies, they are not that expensive. I seem to remember Small Base dies were made for Remington autoloader rifles, Do they still make them? Th e SB dies I mean.
Mike

 

[BADUNAME37]

Yes, they still make SB Full-Length dies!

 

[Waywatcher]

Try sizing a brass without the decapping rod in place to see if it was interfering. Might help narrow down the culprit.

Also give the die a good and thorough degreasing, cleaning and scrubbing.

If all else fails get a new die, luckily they're not too expensive.

 

[Sunray]

"...that's what I 'inherited'..." Excellent reason. What kind of brass? If it's milsurp, that may be your issue. 7.62NATO milsurp is a bit thicker near the case head than commercial.
It's a Rock Chucker, not a Crusher. snicker.

 

[gamestalker]

I've come close to a case getting jammed but only a couple times in the nearly 3 decades of loading. So my first thought is lube. Make absolutly sure you are generously lubing the inside of the neck, outside of the neck, and the outside of the case wall, all the way down to the head. Don't lube the shoulder at all. Second thing to make sure of is that both the brass and the die are clean, no tumbling dust or other debrie on either. Take the die apart and inspect it and clean it. If it isn't as smooth as a baby's butt give it a good polishing with some fine steel wool and polishing compound. Also make sure your decapping pin and expander plug are adjusted correctly. I like for the decapping pin to be exposed just enough to effectively pop the spent primer out and no more(3/8" exposed). SB dies shouldn't change the way the die works or cause problems such as you are experiencing.
Bottom line in my opinion is, the problem is related to lube. Honestly, I've probably only cleaned my dies a couple of times in the near 30 yrs. of service and have never had a problem. And the only couple times I did experience a close call was due entirely to lack of proper lubing. Also, don't stop in the middle of your stroke or back out part way in and then retry without having relubed the case, that will deffinitely get a case stuck. One other possible is how stable the press is mounted. If you are having to deal with any give or flex of your table it can effect the way the case enters and extracts from the die. In other words, you don't want the case to stop in mid stroke upon entering or exiting the die at all.
If you can't eliminate the problem then send the die into RCBS and they'll evaluate and fix the problem, usually at no charge. They are really good folks and have never even charged me for shipping for a custom FL die. I sent it in with some of my brass and they customized it to my chamber for free.

 

[gamestalker]

Fred Flintstone uses the Rock Crusher to load his Shotstone Gun. Hee! Hee! Hee!

 

[ranger335v]

If you plug the inside of the case neck with lube it will have no effect in them sticking in an FL die. You can screw the decap rod down a half inch too far and it will buckle but not stop the ram from pushing up as far as the case can enter the die. The die can be 'too small' and the case will fully enter IF it's properly lubed - I reform .30-06 cases to .22-250, believe me that die is smaller than the parent cartridge.

Your die walls could be rough as concrete but the cases will go in AND come back out IF they are properly lubed. Cases get stuck near the bottom, that's where they are thickest so that's what needs lubing most. Both Imperial and RCBS case lubes are fine stuff. Anything called a "crusher" (rightly or wrongly) will sure put them in there.

 

[VancMike]

I've loaded thousands of rounds without issue, but recently I began reloading for a "new" .222 Rem. Sure enough, about the 2nd or 3rd (once fired) brass stuck. Fortunatly, I was using new Lee dies, and it's pretty easy to un-stick: just unscrew the adjusting nut on top, and pound .

Then I remembered my Midway "dry white Mica" lube (I bought 4 oz. about 70-zillion years ago, and still have most of it). Problem solved. And any residue in the die just makes it slicker, doesn't promote rust, and, I think, if a tiny amount is left in the brass, doesn't affect the integrity of powder performance.

I see Midway still sells it, under the Franklin label: $9.99 for 4 oz. (which in my world will last several lifetimes....

 

[dave from mesa]

Haven't seen this asked yet and not trying to be a wise guy but you're sure these are brass not steel.

 

[dbarnhart]

Some of you were right on the money. I shone a bright light up into the die and there is definitely some sort of discoloration in spots. I was unable to remove it with scotchbrite so I bought a new .308 FL (non-SB) die and things are working smoothly.

Now let me see.... Rock Crusher..... Nut Chucker..... No wait, that's can't be right ;-)

And on another happy note, I met a guy today who is having so much fun with his Dillon Super Swage and Giraud Trimmer that he sold me 500 .308 cases for $60 that he'd polished, decapped, swaged, trimmed, deburred, and chamfered

 

[MtnCreek]

You can likely save the SB die. As Jake and Gamestalker stated, you can clean it out w/ steel wool. I use an old pistol brush, wrap it w/ OOOO steel wool and coat it w/ Flitz. Attach that to one of those metal cleaning rods (ps. this is the only purpose they serve) and put the other end in a drill. Polish it and then remove all the Flitz and bits of steel wool. Save the die or send it to me !!!

 

[06]

Glad you found the problem. I have started using a universal decapping die on all my bottlenecks. Gives me a stronger pin for those occasional Berdans that sneak into the lot. I spray Hornady One Shot into the dies occasionally to keep them slick. That plus the lube prevents stuck cases. Took all the dies down and bore brushed the interiors and wire wheeled the outsides. Sure makes "dem look purdy".