.308 Win OAL Questions

[pavedave80]

Hi All,
First post so please be gentle. After spending a few hours searching the archives I haven't been able to find what I am looking for. Here is my situation.
1. milsurp LC brass trimmed to 2.005"
2. Hornady .308 150gr FMJBT bullet
3. Winchester 760 powder 46.7 gr
4. to be used in FNFAL

Here is my question: comparing my reloads to the Magtech .308 150gr FMJ ammo I have AND everything I could find here, the MAX length should be 2.775.

What I get with bullet seated so the case rim is even with the bullet cannelure is 2.692.
Am I worrying about nothing for a "short" (under-length) round?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

Dave
Seattle

 

[Remo-99]

A case of seating to suit the gun, you'll proberbly be wanting to crimp into the cannelure, yes? Since they're for use in a selfloader.

 

[NCsmitty]

Your COAL should be fine at 2.692", do you plan on crimping to the cannelure?

Your starting load of Win 760 might be a bit too low. I would load just a few to start, and see what you get for accuracy.
Win 748 might be a better powder for 150gr bullet.



NCsmitty

 

[Slamfire]

I checked my notes and I seated my 150 Hornady FMJBT's to 2.785"

As long as you are not loading a maximum load, seating depth is not that critical. Also, since these 30 caliber bullets are not jump sensitive, seating depth is not an issue.

Just seat for function.

I don't believe in crimping rifle bullets. I shoot mine in M1a's, PTR91's, Garands, FAL's, and crimping is unnecessary if you have sufficient neck tension. Crimping will swage the midsection of your bullets. So why mess them up?

 

[USSR]

I load the cartridges to be used in my FAL to the mag length (2.80"). No need to crimp, so disregard the cannelure and load 'em long.

Don

 

[918v]

You can load them that short if you want.

 

[W.E.G.]

What type of case gage are you using to make sure your base-to-shoulder dimension is correct?

 

[pavedave80]

W.E.G.,
I am using a RCBS case sizing die with no case gauge. This is my first venture into rifle reloading. 9mm and .44 mag are easy because there is no shoulder!

Thanks,
Dave

 

[steve4102]

I am using a RCBS case sizing die with no case gauge.

How did you set up your RCBS Full Length die. You are using Full Length dies, yes?

 

[pavedave80]

Um, I just screwed the die in until it kissed the case holder them locked it down. I thought perhaps it would be straight forward and user friendly so I just did what I thought the die manufacturers wanted me to do. I am sorry if this comes off as smart alecky, but it makes sense to me as I write this. I did read some on algores invention regarding die setup and this is what I came up with.(see above).

TTFN
Dave

 

[USSR]

Dave,

When headspace is measured in .001's, don't you think that just screwing in a sizing die to some arbitrary position leaves something to be desired?

Don

 

[pavedave80]

USSR, given the possibilities, I am going to do more research. Fortunately I have only done a few cases.

Back to the old drawing board eh boys?

Thanks for you input,
Flummoxed and wondering in Seattle

 

[Steve Marshall]

Get a Wilson case gage.

 

[LeverGunJunkie]

Pavedave80:
I'm sure a Wilson case gage is a worth while investment, that once learned will provide insanely accurate .308 reloads as well as infinite uses of your brass. If you have the time, money and will to use it, then I recommend it.

On the other hand, you can also successfully reload without one. I've yet to get a case gage and all my reloaded rounds fit, go bang, and extract. Actually manage to get some pretty satisfactory groups too.

So while using a case gage to properly calibrate your dies is obviously the preferred method, I humbly submit you can be successful w/out one. In other words, I don't think you have to "go back to the drawing board."

 

[Walkalong]

A case gauge will ensure you have proper headspace in a properly cut chamber, which is a nice thing to be sure of. Yes, you can load without them, but they are a handy thing to have.

As far as getting the best brass life you must have a way to measure where the shoulder is and where your sizer puts it to minimize sizing for good brass life.

Several good ways to do that. Some simple and cheap, some a bit more sophisticated, and some very spiffy and more money. There is a fellow who links to one here occasionally. I can't find the link, but it looks like the Cadillac of bullet/case shoulder comparators.

A sample of cheap and easy

Since you are loading for an FNFAL, you want to full length size your brass, and for the sake of smooth functioning, can't get to tight with your brass fit.

 

[cvo]

I load my .308 rounds by OGIVE, the OAL varies by round.