32-20 hand ejector... $200 as-is

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WestKentucky

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I found a 32-20 s&w hand ejector at a local shop yesterday. 200 bucks but sold as-is. Finish is gone, not rough, GONE. It looks like this gun has been carried in a denim sack for years, but it's all original too. I didn't get to handle it at all to see if it's broken which would explain the as-is but this shop also foes that with old or obscure guns do who knows...I'm intrigued. I don't have any experience with these old shooters but it caught my eye, and for the price it may be too much to say no to. I do reload but not 32-20 (yet). Is this old gun worth looking into or should I leave it where it sits among a Few older, neglected, abused weapons of yesteryear.
 
I saw one in pretty good shape for $350 in a shop about a month ago. I've seen them for $300 or so online occasionally. If a .32-20 hand ejector interests you, I'd hold out for one in better condition.
 
That's kinda what I was thinking. It's not one of the collectible guns, and even if it were it's condition completely kills it. I can't help but be drawn to old guns in forgotten chamberings.
 
Howdy

Collectable is in the eye of the beholder.

For $200 I would certainly go back and ask to see it. Work the action and see if it is working properly. It something was obviously broken I would walk away.

I picked up this 32-20 Hand Ejector a couple of years ago. Almost mint condition. SN 725XX, it shipped in 1916. Of course I payed quite a bit more than $200 for it.

32-20HandEjector02_zpsfd938579.jpg

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If you go back, check the barrel for a bulged bore.

A lot of them seem to have ringed barrels.

rc
 
I had a 32 WCF which was tight with freckling.
I paid $300 OTD
I think $200 for a beater unless it is unusual or has a letter shipping to some famous person is WAY too high.

Pre 10s and M&P in 38 would be worth looking at.
 
See the Revolver Checkout sticky and give it a careful exam. If it checks out, and if the screw heads aren't marred, and if the barrel is not bulged, if think it would be a perfectly reasonable price for an interesting old gun.

Note that if the finish is missing even in the protected areas, it was likely deliberately removed, not just worn away.
 
I didn't get to handle it at all to see if it's broken

I think this is the issue.

Depending on what is broken, I might be willing to pay $200, or you might have to PAY ME to take it away.

Anytime finish is completely gone, I worry that it could have been in a fire - which never does a gun any good.
 
Two things:

It would be helpful if you went back and wrote down the serial number, (stamped on the butt). From that the approximate date-of-manufacture can be determined. It can matter because cylinders weren't heat treated before 1919 (serial number 81,287). Regardless of when it was made it won't have a positive hammer block, and therefore should be carried with the hammer down on an empty chamber. This may or may not make a difference to you.

Since you reload, you can buy dies and proceed, but be aware that components (especially brass) is sometimes difficult to find and likely expensive.

In addition:

A perfect blue finish is nice to have, but makes absolutely no difference in what accuracy it will produce. Back in the day, it was popular because of a flat trajectory that could reach out and touch, combined with relatively light recoil. That hasn't changed.
 
The 32-20 WCF in a revolver also offers more penetration then you can believe until you have seen it.

That little lead bullet must have sectional density out the wazoo compared to most any bigger caliber revolver?

rc
 
Sadly, possibly good for my bank account, I am suddenly homebound by the flu. In a way I hope that gun is gone before I get back to it...but it's tugging hard on my mind.
 
Sorry about your health, but considering the shape the revolver is in, and the usual difficulty finding affordable ammunition, I think you'll find it still there when you get better.

But you still have to decide which way you're going... :uhoh: :evil:
 
Well, Fuff, if I do end up with her I will make sure she smokes a bit. It would likely be one that I would only load with black or pyrodex. The old girl might be tired and not like working hard with smokeless rounds.
 
It would likely be one that I would only load with black or pyrodex. The old girl might be tired and not like working hard with smokeless rounds.

There is no reason you would have to go to burning charcoal. What you want to avoid is smokeless charges that would be more happy in a Winchester model 92. :eek:

You can always use regular .32 S&W Long data in the .32-20 (.32 WCF) in any S&W Military & Police revolver that is in sound mechanical condition.

In and of itself, lacking a pristine blue or nickel finish in no way degrades its performance as a shooter. But the lack of attractive cosmetics usually drops the price substantially.

I am frequently amused by those who spend big-bucks to get the "perfect example," and then go out and shoot it, and by doing so reduce the value of they're purchase... When they could have bought an equal gun with modest to substantial finish wear for less money. Personally I have found that buying the latter leaves me with more money to buy additional guns - or whatever. ;)
 
I am frequently amused by those who spend big-bucks to get the "perfect example," and then go out and shoot it, and by doing so reduce the value of they're purchase... When they could have bought an equal gun with modest to substantial finish wear for less money. Personally I have found that buying the latter leaves me with more money to buy additional guns - or whatever
Amen.

A few years back I bought a Colt New Service for around $300 -- mechanically, it was in great condition, but had been reblued. The sights were lousy, tiny blade and notch, and wouldn't shoot to point of aim. I finally shortened the barrel to 5 1/2" and installed adjustable sights. It shoots like a dream.

Yesterday, I walked out to the mail box (that's 3/4 of a mile through the woods) and jumped an armadillo. A .45 Colt is just about right for an armadillo.:evil:
 
I like 32 caliber hand ejectors but 32-20 doesn't interest me much due to it being a bottleneck case, which means you have to treat it like a rifle caliber to reload it. Rather stick with 32s&w types.
$200 for a gun that is mechanically good with a good bore ain't bad. I did a colt army special like that for $175 and after oxpho blue and oil it looks pretty decent for its age and shooter grade quality.
 
Yea, a little more trouble to load than a straight case .32, but a fun caliber to shoot none the less, and very cool revolvers.

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I paid $160 for this early in 2014 in an auction. About as worn as any revolver I've owned. Action is still tight enough...but the blue is a distant memory

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Jmace, either you bought that gun out from under me or you have its twin. I called the shop owner and we chatted a while (not gun related) and finally I got around to it. He said the gun is on consignment along with a lot of the others in similar condition. He said they all had been used hard and were for lack of a better term wall-hangers. He went further to mention that he and the contracted shop smith went through them carefully with intention of shooting them and purchasing them but they chose not to fire any of the bunch. He did sat to check back on Wednesday for a few to come out of the cooler that may spark even more interest...he has my attention. Last time he gave me that kind of a lead I bought a 870 riot gun with a broken stock for 75 bucks, restocked it, used it, and eventually sold it for 250.
 
That little lead bullet must have sectional density out the wazoo compared to most any bigger caliber revolver?
wow yeah rc you weren't kidding on that sectional density thing (not sure if that last one would chamber in a revolver though) 1rubgi.jpg
 
Dropped by at lunch, the used case is now home to a total of 6 top break S&W ranging from 22 short to 38sw. The 32 rimfire caught my eye, but all ate VERY rough. The 32-20 is broken, internals clunky and the index pawl is totally missing.

Also of note in the case are a colt 41 special, an Allen and Wheellock? And a nearly new in the box k17. All on consignment for more than they are worth, but neat old guns. 2 of the top breaks look great but don't work, 1 of them looks terrible but functions flawlessly. 300 each on the topbreaks.
 
If any of those (so called) top breaks have barrels that tip up, not down, they are not chambered in .22 Short, but .22-100 S&W - that is long gone and was loaded with black powder. A modern .22 Short can split a chamber and ruin the cylinder.

The rest of what you describe (other then the S&W model 17) seems to be highly overpriced. I'd look somewhere else.
 
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