.32 Automatic in .32 S&W Long Top Breaks

[Mr. Mosin]

Thoughts on .32 Automatic in good condition top breaks ? Think the S&W New Departure, four-pin model Iver Johnson’s, etc.

I know the bore (going off new, factory specs) is larger for a .32 S&W Long than a .32 Auto, which would reduce accuracy… but would also reduce pressure.

 

[trackskippy]

While I was researching the one 32 S&W top break I had, I came across a number of discussions on just that. Some people said they shoot 32acp's in them, but most seemed to advise against it, especially with the older guns, or guns of unknown age/condition.

My gun dated to the black powder era and I opted to use black powder in mine. And even then, didn't shoot it all that much.

Is this a matter of not finding the correct ammo, and looking for a substitute? Brass for both the 32 S&W and S&W long are available and bullets arent an issue if you reload.

 

[Tall]

Magtech brand 32 S&W is available at virtually every gun store around here. I think you need some.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

In addition to pressure issues, it can damage the firing pin bushing.

Should be avoided except in case of zombie-apocalypse.

 

[trackskippy]

Magtech brand 32 S&W is available at virtually every gun store around here. I think you need some.

Maybe things have changed, or maybe its more of a regional thing. I was looking around for it back just around covid and it seemed to be pretty tough to find. No stores here carry it and I only found two places online that had any in stock and it was $1/round.

For a few bucks more than they wanted for a box of fifty shipped, I got a set of Lee dies, 100 pieces of brass, and 100 lead bullets off of Midway.

And I agree, if they have it near you, you're golden.

 

[Mr. Mosin]

Mainly determining between .32 and .38 for a project of mine- copying the work of @RevolvingGarbage … a semi-recreation of Col. Applegate’s New Departure, but based on an Iver Johnson equivalent.

 

[TTv2]

.32 ACP is not safe to fire in any .32 top break revolver not just due to chamber pressure, but also because the guns were built to shoot lead bullets only. Trying to shove a jacketed bullet only adds to the damage it will do.

The only revolvers that are able to handle .32 ACP are solid frames chambered for a magnum (H&R or .327). It's debatable if solid frame .32 S&W Long revolvers are capable of it, I really don't care to find out, the .32 S&W Long with a 98gr wadcutter is more accurate and effective than any .32 ACP load can be.

 

[Mr. Mosin]

.32 ACP is not safe to fire in any .32 top break revolver not just due to chamber pressure, but also because the guns were built to shoot lead bullets only. Trying to shove a jacketed bullet only adds to the damage it will do.

The only revolvers that are able to handle .32 ACP are solid frames chambered for a magnum (H&R or .327). It's debatable if solid frame .32 S&W Long revolvers are capable of it, I really don't care to find out, the .32 S&W Long with a 98gr wadcutter is more accurate and effective than any .32 ACP load can be.

I thought as much, but wanted to run it by the guys n’ gals here.

 

[Miami_JBT]

Magtech brand 32 S&W is available at virtually every gun store around here. I think you need some.

.32 S&W or .32 S&W Long? Because I'm down for .32 S&W. It is not in my area.

 

[TTv2]

I thought as much, but wanted to run it by the guys n’ gals here.

I didn't want to put a bunch in that post, but there may be some .32 S&W Lg solid frames that are capable of doing .32 ACP as I've read some people have done it in the H&R revolvers made after WW2, the model 632/633 and 732/733. The claims that I read was those were overbuilt for the .32 Lg, which is possibly true as there was little difference between them and the .32 H&R Mags that H&R/NEF made in the 80s and those are capable of handling .32 ACP.

The issue is I cannot remember which forum I read that on and can't find it to refresh my memory. You seem more interested in top breaks tho and you'd be better off getting into reloading for .32 S&W.

 

[Tall]

.32 S&W or .32 S&W Long? Because I'm down for .32 S&W. It is not in my area.

32 S&W Ammunition32 S&W is what he needs. It's everywhere around here.

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

The plus side is that if .32 ACP will chamber in a .32 S&W revolver, it will go bang. And if the gun's in good shape, it probably won't destroy the revolver immediately.

It will destroy an old top-break .32 S&W revolver before very long, give lousy accuracy, and have occasional extraction issues due to the smaller semi-rim. You might also experience pierced primers, since the ACP rim is very slightly thinner than the S&W's.

So, can you? -- probably. Should you? -- heck no.

For handloading, I have used salvaged .32 ACP BRASS to pinch-hit for .32 S&W, using lead wadcutters and very low pressure loads. It's a decent workaround when there's no .32 S&W ammo or brass to be found, which has happened a lot lately.

You'd need to be pretty easily distracted to mistakenly put this kind of handload, with lead wadcutter bullets sticking out halfway, into a .32 ACP pocket pistol, so ammo confusion isn't really an issue. However, you'd be much better off shortening .32 Long brass to fit so the rim will be the proper diameter and thickness.

 

[Miami_JBT]

32 S&W Ammunition32 S&W is what he needs. It's everywhere around here.

That link is out of stock

 

[Tall]

That link is out of stock

Yup it is. Link posted so you will know what to look for.

 

[Old Hobo]

The small "rim" on the .32 auto is a thinner rim than on .32 revolver ammunition. This can -- often does, in fact -- cause misfires. Imagine the .32 auto cartridge when in the revolver cylinder's chamber having room to move forward and back (fore and aft). Therefore, shoot the .32 Auto ammo in automatics. The thickness of .32 revolver ammo's rim (long, short, ...) insures that the case's primer backs right up to the firing pin's exit point in the frame = Bang!
.

 

[Miami_JBT]

Yup it is. Link posted so you will know what to look for.

I know what to look for. No one in my area can get Magtech .32 S&W, or anyone else making it like Remington.

 

[RevolvingGarbage]

Difficulty sourcing components for .32S&W is a big reason I recommended you go with a .38S&W for your project. I don't have a lot of spare brass even for the .38 but I could afford to part with 20-30 for you if you can't find some loaded factory stuff. The only .32 casings I have are from old balloon head blackpowder loaded rounds and I have no idea how much of a trick there might be to reloading those if it's even doable at all.

Edited to add:

Definitely avoid .32ACP in top breaks. As it has already been pointed out, the extra friction from the FMJ bullet pushing down the barrel is the bigger concern than the pressure. It's going to really strain the latch.

 

[Speedo66]

AIM Surplus has .32 S&W Long for $21.95 a box of 50, in stock. They also have .32acp for the same price if you prefer to use that.

Here’s a link: https://aimsurplus.com/search?qs=Am...=&sort_by=best&pagesize=24&page=1&mode=search

 

[Tall]

AIM Surplus has .32 S&W Long for $21.95 a box of 50, in stock. They also have .32acp for the same price if you prefer to use that.

Here’s a link: https://aimsurplus.com/search?qs=Am...=&sort_by=best&pagesize=24&page=1&mode=search

None of those options will work in his gun. He needs 32 Smith and Wesson caliber. The brass is in stock here: 32 S&W brass

 

[Carl N. Brown]

.32 ACP in a zinc frame Clerke First .32 S&W revolver will leave a readable impression of the head stamp on the breech face.

 

[ThomasT]

My first experience with a model 31 S&W was with 32acp rounds. They chambered and went off just fine. The only problem was I almost couldn't the the opposite side of the bank at the river I was shooting at they were so inaccurate. I bought some 32 Long brass and some .314 lead bullets and finally got some decent accuracy. I have 4 S&W 32 Long revolvers and each one has a .313 barrel and .314 cylinder throats. 32acp bullets just rattle down the bore since they are sized at .311. They may go off but they are a waste of ammo. You just want to make noise buy a couple of packages of firecrackers. They will make noise and are just as accurate.

I really like my 32 caliber handguns. I have a lot of brass and lots of factory lead and thousands of bullets I have cast myself. The velocity of the 32 Long is low enough that jacketed bullets are a waste of components. Just stick to lead bullet loads. I do have a couple of 32 autos. A Walther/Manurin PP and a Kel Tec P32.

My revolvers are 2" model 30-1, 3" model 30-1, 4" model 31-1 and I Frame HE 32 long with 3.25" barrel and two Ruger Single Sixes with adjustable sights and 5.5" barrels. Those are my favorite of all to shoot.

If the OP wants a 32 long revolver look on GB. There were a lot listed at affordable prices and you don't have to buy an ancient top break either. You can find the model 30s and 31s listed for sale without box and paperwork for a fair price.