.357/38 die set

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ThePomel

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Hi,
I just ordered a new .357 Mag revolver and I a debating about which die set to get. I load on a RC IV single stage. I am currently looking at:
1. "Lee Precision .357 Magnum Carbide 3-Die Set (Silver)" $33.66
2. "RCBS 3-Die Carbide Set (.357 Mag/.38 Sp)" $52.99 (also $10 rebate)
3. "Rcbs Carbide Three-Die Set Taper Crimp .38 Special/.357 Magnum, 18215" $53.99

Should I be using a taper or Roll crimp for a S&W 686? I don't plan on loading any .38 spc and kind of like the fact that the Lee comes with the shell holder. What do you think?

I also bought 1000 rds of new Startline brass. Any suggestions on target bullets to start out with? I have never loaded lead only bullets, is that straight forward like a jacketed or is it a bit tricky?
 
I have Lee dies, they work just fine.

For lead or lead coated you'll want to increase the bell, don't want the bullet 'shaving'.

Lot's of companies producing a quality cast bullet. Dardas, Laser Cast, Missouri...
 
By all means, and regardless of which brand you choose, go with a set that roll crimps.

38/357 is a rimmed cartridge, and considering you will be shooting these from a revolver, you'll likely need to roll crimp, especially if you should ever decide to load full house magnums. Full throttle magnums can actually cause the bullet to get pulled up due to the inertia created.

Also, some powders that need a roll crimp in order to facilitate a complete burn.

And in some circumstances, also relative to the powder, it's conceivably possible to experience such poor ignition that it could result in a squib.

So yes, I recommend a die set that roll crimps. You can always adjust the amount of roll crimp you apply, but a taper crimp is always going to be just that, a taper crimp.

As for brands, I started out many years ago using Lee die's for my hand gun needs, and the single determining factor was that I really like the powder die. But I've had a couple problems, like broken a carbide insert on a 9mm die, which they would not replace at N/C. I've also had off and on issues with the de-capping pins getting pushed up, which is minor in comparison, but still annoying.

That said, I've not yet experienced any issues with RCBS in better than 30 yrs... RCBS also has stellar CS, they've never blinked an eye when I needed something, primer catcher N/C , replaced an aluminum press I managed to wear out after about 30 yrs. N/C, and a bunch of other accessories and parts I've contacted them about that were shipped out at N/C. And I just personally feel they make a better die.

GS
 
Lee dies are good to go. I have sets in nine different calibers and never had a reason to pay up for other brands. You might as well get the 38sp version since it loads 357 mag as well, but their 357mag set will not load 38 sp.

I use X-Treme plated bullets for 357 mag target rounds. I use their 158gn HP which is has a heavier plating than their standard RNFP. From their website:

"Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp

Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp"

I have moved completely away from loading lead due to excess smoke, mess and general concern over lead exposure. But that's just me. Many many people load lead and cast their own with great success. There can be a few tricks to doing it without getting leading in your barrel, but it's not too difficult if that's the route you choose.
 
2. "RCBS 3-Die Carbide Set (.357 Mag/.38 Sp)" $52.99 (also $10 rebate)

To me ^^^ this would be the die set to buy.:)
I am NOT a Lee fan myself--YES, I KNOW that there are Lee fans out there!!

If you are going to load mostly .357Mag., you will be roll crimping most, if not all of your loads, no matter what they are shot in. The roll crimp is applied to the crimp groove in some bullets, mostly lead and the cannalure on others, mostly jacketed.

Usually a taper crimp is only used on Full Wadcutter target loads, usually in .38 Spl.

I load both calibers on Dillon dies, and use a C-H Taper crimp die only on my .38Spl. HBWC Target loads..Bill.:D
 
I agree with the crimping comments. The Lee set is a roll crimp. I use a light roll crimp with plated bullets so not to dig into the plating too much. With FMJ bullets and heavy charges I dial it down for a fairly heavy crimp.
 
If you are going to be loading much stuff needing crimped, look into getting a Lee Universal flaring die and get expander plugs from NOE to put it for different calibers you mess with. The plugs turn the Lee die into an M-die but the plugs are only 10 bucks a piece vs 30 bucks for an M-die for each caliber.
 
If you order the Lee and use a case activated powder measure, you will need to order the shorter expander plug for 357. The one that comes standard with the either/or set is for 38 Special, which can be backed off for 357. That doesn't quite work for the case-activated powder measure.
 
For pistol, I generally use Lee dies. They all do about the same thing, but the Lee depriming pin is a better design. I have not seen any advantages to the RCBS, except maybe the lock rings.

For rifle, I use RCBS. They are a bit more consistent in OAL, and available in Small based die sets.
 
Been using the Lee dies for years. I have added a Redding taper crimp die, not sure it is needed but I like it for loading light loads with plated bullets.
 
Thanks everyone for all the great advice. I am going with the "Lee Precision .38 Special Carbide 4-Die Set (Silver)" from Amazon. It comes with the shell holder and has the factory crimp die if I want to use it. I think I can get a light roll crimp with the normal seating die, but the Factory Crimp may come in handy if I load some hotter .357 loads in the future. I did go ahead and order some of the X-Treme plated bullets to try out as well!
This is a great forum and I am proud to have just re-upped my subscription here. It's well worth it ;)
 
Most of my handgun dies are Hornady followed by RCBS. I switched over to Hornady many years ago when I discovered the TiNi dies take less force on resizing than a carbide die. I had used RCBS carbide dies since the 70's so this caught be by surprise. And I like the drop down bullet sleeve on the bullet seater. Allows you to get your fingers out of the way and aid in alignment. I've had poor luck with Lee dies and will not buy any more.
 
If you order the Lee and use a case activated powder measure, you will need to order the shorter expander plug for 357. The one that comes standard with the either/or set is for 38 Special, which can be backed off for 357. That doesn't quite work for the case-activated powder measure.

I use the Lee auto disk case activated pm and the Lee 4 die set to load both 38sp and 357 mag just as they came and never had a problem.
 
I have Lyman and RCBS .357/38 Special carbide die sets. Yes use roll crimp dies. Whatever die set you get make SURE your combination sizing die sizes .38 cases enough for good bullet tension. Some .38 Special cases are thinner and bullets can be loose in .38 cases. Don't like combo dies but we have them in several pistol calibers.
 
I use the 4 die carbide set from Lee (it also has a factory crimp die). I use a pretty heavy crimp on magnum rounds. When I first started reloading, I had some magnum bullets move deeper into the case from recoil - especially in the mag tube on a lever action rifle. Using the factory crimp die and heavier crimp, I have had no more issues.
I am very happy with Lee dies and they are all I use.
 
I did get the Lee 4 die set with the FCD and used to use it to crimp on a separate station, but now I don't because I've been able to crimp the Lee 358-158-RF just fine without shaving lead on the seater/crimper die and sizing the loaded 38/357's have not been necessary for me even when using unsized tumble lubed bullets.

The roll crimp prevents the bullet from jumping forward from the recoil of a heavy load. For heavy 38 and 357 loads, you'll want the roll crimp. For light (700 fps and less) loads, I've found that no crimp works just fine and the brass is worked less.
 
On the Lee vs RCBS die question, there's one HUGE difference: the decapping pin. The Lee design requires reading the directions (really) and tightening the lock stud more than you'd think, but the first time you have a stuck case you will love the Lee die. Simply unscrew and remove the lock stud, and drive the case out with a hammer; 30 seconds including fishing your wrenches out of the toolbox and replacing the undamaged pin and lock stud.

A stuck case in any other brand die is a 15 minute show to drill and tap the case head, hopefully without ruining the trapped decapping pin.
 
I have always used Lee dies. I think you'll be fine if you go that route.

But, I got a set of RCBS cowboy style dies for 38/357 and have enjoyed them so far. Maybe a little more than the Lee. I'll know for sure when I get a few more loads through them.

I load mostly lead in handgun loads.
 
Pretty much any die set will serve you well. Use of the Lee Factory Crimp Die in 357 magnum *may* be a good choice, or it may not. I shoot cast bullets exclusively, and I have found that it is not a good choice in my application. However, the crimp shoulder in the seater die does a good job of applying a nice, firm, roll crimp.

I have used all manufacturer's dies over the year, and for my uses, I find the Lee's my first choice for my ammunition needs. When I feel the need for other features, I seek out the dies with those features.

OP when you say you are looking at "target bullets" are you referencing wadcutters or semi wadcutters, jacketed, cast, which? The seating punch in your Lee die set may not be properly profiled for your uses. I do not know whether Lee offers alternatives, but RCBS can provide you with a seating punch properly profiled for the bullet you choose.
 
Lee dies are what I use. The other brands offer no advantages that warrant the additional costs, especially in straight walled hand gun loads, IMHO.
 
Interesting comments. I have RCBS dies and at least three seating dies set for different bullets. I load mostly plated bullets and I taper crimp all calibers of them. I have never had any issues with this practice.
 
Oh, and by the way, the last time I looked, this was what Lee Dies would do:

38 Spl die set: .38 Spl and .357 Magnum
.357 Die Set: .357 and .357 Maximum

The .357 dies would NOT load .38...but the .38 dies would load .357. I doubt this has changed.
 
Pretty much any die set will serve you well. Use of the Lee Factory Crimp Die in 357 magnum *may* be a good choice, or it may not. I shoot cast bullets exclusively, and I have found that it is not a good choice in my application. However, the crimp shoulder in the seater die does a good job of applying a nice, firm, roll crimp.

I have used all manufacturer's dies over the year, and for my uses, I find the Lee's my first choice for my ammunition needs. When I feel the need for other features, I seek out the dies with those features.

OP when you say you are looking at "target bullets" are you referencing wadcutters or semi wadcutters, jacketed, cast, which? The seating punch in your Lee die set may not be properly profiled for your uses. I do not know whether Lee offers alternatives, but RCBS can provide you with a seating punch properly profiled for the bullet you choose.
I was referring to cheap bullets for range practice, nothing special.
 
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