I used to reload for it.
I found it a pain. Back then, there were only two dies available: RCBS and Hornady. I bought RCBS, but soon realized they would not set the shoulder back enough for the round to chamber. I had to remove metal from the bottom of the die to get it to work.
I used .40 S&W brass without issue for plinking loads. They had a shorter neck, but the round headspaced off the shoulder once reloaded so it worked fine. I drove 90gr bullets to 1900 FPS using Universal Clays and Power Pistol, but that was from a 6" KKM barrel. It was extremely accurate, placing five shots inside of 1" at 25 yards from a benchrest. My eyes were better then.
I found that maximum neck tension eliminated bullet setback. So I flared the case mouth only. That means I did not use the expander. I crimped slightly and that was good enough for my Glock because the round fed straight into the chamber and did not bounce off the feedramp.
Also, if you clean the inside of the case neck, it will hold the bullet more securely than a case with carbon fouled neck. Back then I brushed the necks with a bronze brush, then swabbed them with alcohol. Nowadays I would just wet tumble them in stainless media. Remember, pristine brass on copper makes more friction that a dirty case neck. I also discovered the benefits of nickle plated brass. The nickle increases friction still. So if you use nickle brass, your bullet setback issues will be a distant memory.
The reason people run the fired case through a .40 carbide die is so they don't have to lube. If you use a conventional .357Sig die, you have to lube. Otherwise you'll stick the case. Sonpeople run it through a carbide fie first, then through a .357 die to finish sizing and they manage not to stick the case.
You don't need a FCD. You can seat and crimp with the seater die in one step if you set up the die to remove the bell and maybe give it a teeny bit of crimp.
Today, I feel that loading the 9mm to .357 Sig pressures is a lot less of a headache and gives performance that is close enough.