360PD carry loads?

[Prosser]

Hi
I'm sitting here, looking at three piles of 5 shots each.

The first is Fioochi 147 grain SJHP's. They go 1131 fps out of the 360.

Second: BuffaloBore .38 Special Plus P,LHP 1040 fps.

Third: Corbon 125 Grain Speer HP's @ 1204 fps.

Recoil is not a question. They all recoil hard, and the perception is the same with all of them.

Accuracy is not in question: They all are center of mass accurate, fired DA,
@ 7 yards out of the 360PD. Blast and noise are pretty much the same.

Which one would you pick, and why?

Also, I've been looking for some .357 ammo to replace the Corbon, and the Fioochi, since I can't seem to find either of them, anywhere.

Suggestions?

 

[rcmodel]

I'd mark one round of each with a magic-marker and shoot a couple 4-shot cylinders of each without firing the marked one.

Then carefully inspect it for any sign of recoil pulling the bullet out of the crimp.

If you see it, rule that load out and try the next one.

rc

 

[56hawk]

I use Federal 158 grain Hydra-shoks in my M&P 360. I've always been impressed with the reliability and accuracy of Federal ammo. Haven't chronographed them, but they feel pretty stout.

 

[Denada]

I'd mark one round of each with a magic-marker and shoot a couple 4-shot cylinders of each without firing the marked one.

Then carefully inspect it for any sign of recoil pulling the bullet out of the crimp.

If you see it, rule that load out and try the next one.

rc

This is good advice. In general, a heavier bullet is more likely to unseat its crimp than a lighter one in these lightweight guns, if the recoil is severe. That could lock up the cylinder and become a crisis in an emergency.

 

[Prosser]

Already done that, with all three loads. They are fine.

I'm also down to 5 rounds of Fioochi, and the last 5 rounds of corbon.

 

[Strykervet]

This is good advice. In general, a heavier bullet is more likely to unseat its crimp than a lighter one in these lightweight guns, if the recoil is severe. That could lock up the cylinder and become a crisis in an emergency.

Pretty sure it is the other way around. That is why it has the warning on the barrel. I tried out Hornady CD's and Speer GD's, both in 125gr. I found that neither were a problem. I took one round, and loaded it for a couple cylinder's worth and no problem, just very, very light unseating --not enough to matter considering the cylinder only holds five rounds. Only reason I switched from the CD to the GD was because I heard about a lot of QC problems with CD, although all mine worked. Don't hear that much bad stuff about GD's and never had a problem. I like Corbon too, I used to use them but when it comes to factory ammo I use the best stuff closest by. I usually use 10mm and load.

The recoil, to me, was lighter with the lighter bullets. I have a 340PD and it is even lighter, so if it gets light enough, you can tell. 158gr. GD's are BRUTAL and I only clock around 840 or so. I'd rather have the 1200 or thereabouts with 125's.

I generally go for the round with the highest kinetic energy, except when it may already be overpowered then I go for the heavier bullet and take advantage of momentum if possible. I really only care about the numbers.

Also be careful with that titanium cylinder. It isn't as tough as a stainless one. I ran some handloads, very stiff but within the data, and they worked fine in the 686+ but they shattered the area immediate to the forcing cone on the face of the cylinder. It may be a nasty form of flame cutting, but it was definitely enough to send it back. They had just came out and Smith replaced it no questions.

Those were 125 plated bullets on top of around 17gr. N110. A pretty stiff load. Factory loads usually don't come loaded with a case full of N110 and I've never had a problem with factory or handloads since --but I don't use slow burners in it anymore either.

I'd be concerned Buffalo Bore is getting their numbers by using a powder like this, so unless I knew where that powder was on the chart I'd be weary. That .38 is in magnum territory and will have more pressure than a given .357 with the same numbers. That concerns me too. I may over worry, but not taking chances after sending one back.

GREAT little revolver, would never get rid of it, but I also tend to use it lightly. Besides, factory mags are MORE than enough punishment in it, and the only way I get to shoot it much is with lighter handloads using N340.

 

[Denada]

Pretty sure it is the other way around. That is why it has the warning on the barrel...

My understanding is that the warning on the side of the light scandium guns against using bullets less than 120 grains has to do with the increased risk of flame erosion of the cylinder from the hotter gases propelling lighter magnum bullets. This doesn't have anything to do with bullet crimping. The reason heavier bullets can uncrimp in these light guns is due to the law of inertia... heavier bullets want to stay put when the light gun recoils backwards. The cylinder pulls the casings backward, while the bullets tend to stay put, so there is risk of the fifth bullet becoming uncrimped after the first four are fired. In answering the OP's original question, I'd recommend against the lightest and heaviest magnum bullets in the 360PD and go with something around 125 gr. (or stick with .38 Spl rounds, where the flame erosion and uncrimping problems are unlikely to occur).

 

[Denada]

deleted

 

[Prosser]

To be more exact:

Flame cutting from certain types of powders occurs when the powder isn't burned completely in the case. This occurs with light bullets, since they tend to move more quickly. The effect turns the unburned powder into sand blasting particles, at high pressure, and temperatures. Heavier bullets tend to lead to better complete combustion, so there are fewer unburned grains to act as sand blasting material on the top strap.

 

[340PD]

None of the above. I shoot and carry 135 gr. Gold Dots.
These are made for short barrel guns.