38+p in a S&W 10
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mcb
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When was the Model 10 made? If it was after the early 1970's it will handle +P just fine. I am sure someone will come along with a more definitive cut off but date and-dash number.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
The standard answer is that any K frame 38 Special revolver made after the change over to model names in 1957 is safe to shoot with 38 Special +P ammunition.
If it is stamped MOD 10, or anything similar on the frame under the yoke, it was made post 1957 and is therefor safe to shoot with 38 Special +P ammunition.
The standard answer is that any K frame 38 Special revolver made after the change over to model names in 1957 is safe to shoot with 38 Special +P ammunition.
If it is stamped MOD 10, or anything similar on the frame under the yoke, it was made post 1957 and is therefor safe to shoot with 38 Special +P ammunition.
Jim Watson
Member
Right, that is the official S&W rule of thumb, a steel frame and a model number "rates" it for +P.
The next question is, what is "a steady diet"?
There are frequent threads, "I shot hundreds and hundreds of +Ps though my Model 10 and it didn't hurt it a bit."
On the other hand, Ted Murphy wore out two guns with thousands and thousands of +P it took to make power factor 125 in a 4" barrel for IDPA SSR before they reduced the power factor.
The next question is, what is "a steady diet"?
There are frequent threads, "I shot hundreds and hundreds of +Ps though my Model 10 and it didn't hurt it a bit."
On the other hand, Ted Murphy wore out two guns with thousands and thousands of +P it took to make power factor 125 in a 4" barrel for IDPA SSR before they reduced the power factor.
Starter52
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Safe with 158 grain loads IMO.
The Bushmaster
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The model 10's you see to your left have not seen anything but +P without issue.
sgt127
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Really, i think one would run out of money to buy ammo before you did any lasting damage to a K Frame from Plus P ammo.
Lots of K Frame .357’s out there. And until the really hot 125 gr ammo came out, it wasn’t an issue.
I won’t intentionally beat up a good gun with +P+ and full on magnums all the time but, the +P of today is really not that hot.
Lots of K Frame .357’s out there. And until the really hot 125 gr ammo came out, it wasn’t an issue.
I won’t intentionally beat up a good gun with +P+ and full on magnums all the time but, the +P of today is really not that hot.
This was what I was thinking. But I didn't know what the general consensus is. I tried searching it. But came across a lot of I want to ream my model 10 to 357 posts.
mcb
Member
If it's rated for +P, as yours no doubt is being made in the 80's, it can take +P full time. Remember the 357 Mag that give K-frames a hard time is light weight 125 gr and lighter bullets loaded to nearly 35,000 psi. 38 Special +P is only loaded to 20,000psi. Shoot at much as you want.
earlthegoat2
Member
Not that this is for everybody but every 38 Special Smith revolver I have ever owned with a model number has at least at one time had a steady diet of +P shot in it. Including alloy J frames. My version of a steady diet is several hundred rounds. Say, over 300.
My 1968 Model 38 no dash has had over 500 fired through it.
My 1968 Model 38 no dash has had over 500 fired through it.
A steady diet to me is 500-1000 a year.
I made the mistake of doing this with a k-frame 357 using light bullets. There is noticable cutting in the back strap.
I didn't want to do similar things to this one if +P rounds would cause it.
sgt127
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All my .357’s, even N Frames, have some Flame cutting on the top strap. It’s just part of life. Usually reaches a point and stops.
As much as I, and others, fret about it, I’ve never seen a top strap fail because of it.
Riomouse911
Member
Indeed, the barrel/cylinder gap is a place of great stresses, as this image from a Model 66 .357 firing 158 gr SWC over 6.7 gr Unique shows.
You will probably get a touch of flame cutting with .38 +P loads on the topstrap of your Model 10, but it’ll be in the thousandths of an inch and will be insignificant.
It may fall out of time or develop endshake issues a bit sooner with +P compared to standard pressure .38’s, but I’ll opine that you’ll be many years and many thousandths of shots down the road before you’ll notice.
Stay safe.
You will probably get a touch of flame cutting with .38 +P loads on the topstrap of your Model 10, but it’ll be in the thousandths of an inch and will be insignificant.
It may fall out of time or develop endshake issues a bit sooner with +P compared to standard pressure .38’s, but I’ll opine that you’ll be many years and many thousandths of shots down the road before you’ll notice.
Stay safe.
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That fire ball is small compared to my h110 and 110 gr bullet loads.
I have about 500 110gr bullets left from before I learned 158s and 180s are better.
Riomouse911
Member
Ya, a nice mid range load = sweet mid range fireball
. I like the ones the guys get with the ring o’ fire about two feet in front of their muzzle! Now if I wanted a Bugs Bunny cartoon quality fireball I’d put on my 2.5” barrel and leave a .015 gap on my Dan Wesson 15-2 with some of my 125 gr H-110 loads.
I’d probably singe all the hair off my arms if I did so, but MAN would those be cool
. Stay safe.
I have a paperweight gun. It's other name is tec-9
Alloy 38's are meant to be carried a lot and shot a little.
Those are the ones that make you stop shooting at an indoor range.Ya, a nice mid range load = sweet mid range fireball
Now if I wanted a Bugs Bunny cartoon quality fireball I’d put on my 2.5” barrel and leave a .015 gap on my Dan Wesson 15-2 with some of my 125 gr H-110 loads.
I’d probably singe all the hair off my arms if I did so, but MAN would those be cool
Stay safe.
Jim Watson
Member
We had a guy who thought it was fun to shoot a 2.5" M19 with 110 gr bullets and a large dose of N110 at the indoor IDPA match.
Recoil was moderate, but the flash was dazzling.
Recoil was moderate, but the flash was dazzling.
Jim Watson
Member
True. Buy a spare now before prices get any higher.
Or cross your fingers to be like the guy who saw an advertisement for a Model 10 but realized it was really a Model 20 Heavy Duty.
Or cross your fingers to be like the guy who saw an advertisement for a Model 10 but realized it was really a Model 20 Heavy Duty.
Riomouse911
Member
biquer
Member
My Model 10s and the M64, no dash do not get fed +p loads. Of course I can’t know their history with previous owners. Those old gems get mostly target loads with cast DE WCs.
I don’t see the point in potentially stressing these old jewels for a few fps on paper targets.
Hotter loads in .357 cases in the GP, NM BH, 686 and Speed Six and occasionally the M19-5.
I don’t see the point in potentially stressing these old jewels for a few fps on paper targets.
Hotter loads in .357 cases in the GP, NM BH, 686 and Speed Six and occasionally the M19-5.
Mosin Bubba
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I was out shooting my Model 10 last month, and I brought both some factory 158 gr LRNs 38s and a Ziploc baggie of 158gr 38 +Ps that I had bought at a gun show forever ago and were just floating around in the back of my ammo cabinet.
Anyway, out shooting at 25 yards, the LRN ammo was consistently more accurate than the +P. The +P shot low from the extra velocity, which was somewhat expected, and it had a lot more spread as well. I was surprised at how off-target the +P was, given how the LRN was driving tacks. I figured it'd drive tacks that were a hair lower.
My two theories about it:
1. S&W sighted in the Model 10s for standard black-powder velocity 158gr 38s (despite the normal 38s of the 30s-70s supposedly being some pretty hot stuff).
2. Ziploc-baggie gun show ammo from the 90s is not a high precision instrument.
I'd like to buy a box of new-manufacture FBI load +P to test hypothesis #2, but that experience didn't exactly make me want to rush out and spend $25 on more +Ps either.
Anyway, out shooting at 25 yards, the LRN ammo was consistently more accurate than the +P. The +P shot low from the extra velocity, which was somewhat expected, and it had a lot more spread as well. I was surprised at how off-target the +P was, given how the LRN was driving tacks. I figured it'd drive tacks that were a hair lower.
My two theories about it:
1. S&W sighted in the Model 10s for standard black-powder velocity 158gr 38s (despite the normal 38s of the 30s-70s supposedly being some pretty hot stuff).
2. Ziploc-baggie gun show ammo from the 90s is not a high precision instrument.
I'd like to buy a box of new-manufacture FBI load +P to test hypothesis #2, but that experience didn't exactly make me want to rush out and spend $25 on more +Ps either.
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