.38 special HB wadcutters in .38 S&W revolver

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EMT_stuart

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According to my research, a .38 special wadcutter sitting flush in the case should be just as long as a .38 S&W cylinder, but have a little bit of play along the case walls. If it were a hollow base, it could, in theory, expand to grip the .38 S&W's .360 bore as well. Is there anything I'm missing? I have purchased a .38 S&W revolver and would like to try this as I own .38 special dies.
 
The difference in bullet diameter is so small that many S&W revolvers chambered in 38 S&W (well, .380 Enfield) for the British in WWII were modified after the war to take 38 Special. A hollow base lead bullet would be a very good choice. But:

1) Most good quality 38 S&W revolvers will have chamber steps to prevent the use of cartridges whose case is significantly longer than 38 S&W.

2) This may not be a good idea because of the possible difference in peak firing chamber pressure of a 38 Special wadcutter load compared to that of 38 S&W. The 38 Special wadcutter load was actually designed to duplicate the ballistics of 38 S&W, which had a very good reputation as a target load. But if the case capacity of 38 Special brass after seating the bullet to the correct depth is significantly different, than the pressure the load develops could be different, even if the muzzle velocity is the same. I don't have any reference books here, but you need to check on this before proceeding.

38 Special wadcutter is a light load, but many 38 S&W revolvers were kind of flimsy. What type of gun are you proposing to try this in? A solid frame Colt or S&W, or a top-break Webley or Enfield could probably take it, but would be very likely to have the chamber steps I mentioned first. A cheap top-break may not have the steps, but would be a much weaker gun. Of course, it could still be an interesting project.

I think that if this sort of thing was easy or convenient, a lot more people would do it, because 38 Special ammunition has been cheaper and easier to find than 38 S&W ammo for several decades.
 
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My experience , though limited to one .38 S&W revolver , indicates that the difference of .003 - .004" in casing diameter makes the discharge of .38 special in a cylinder chambered for .38 S&W a bad idea. The first thing that I noticed was that the over expanded casings resisted ejection. Closer examination revealed that the casings were not handling the expansion well at all. (!)

After honing the charge holes I processed 50 rounds of nickel plated brass cased .38 S&W through my Lend-Lease revolver with perfect function and no problems at all.

My conclusion : the loose .38 special casing in a .38 S&W charge hole is a bad fit. Whether the rifling matched up is a moot point from where I sit ; I will not be loading the smaller casing into the .38 S&W cylinder again.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=787107

See post # 32.
 
Some folks try to trim down .38spl cases for this. Speer#11 strongly advises against this because the .38spl cases usually split just like the one in the photo.

Midway frequently has .38s&w brass. Also .360" Rem HBWC bullets work well in most of these guns.
 
You can probably get away with reloading 38 S&W with 38 special dies, but you will need 38 S&W brass.
38 Special brass should not work in a 38 S&W unless the chamber has been reamed. This might be acceptable for a WWII era gun, but not ideal. In an older gun this could be dangerous.
Factory loaded 38 S&W is fairly cheap and easy to find online. That's how I accumulated a couple hundred pieces of brass.
 
Thanks for the input, gents! I'm never left unsatisfied with y'alls feedback. What complications would I have with reloading .38 S&W brass in .38 special dies?
 
I reload .38 S&W for a Webley Mark III. Born in 1937. It is not accurate with .361 & .360 bullets so I settled on Missouri Bullet 158gr match.
Remington Match (.357) and Privi Partisan (.358) shoot very well and good brass to reload.
You can get .361 from Matt's Bullets.
 
For the Iver Johnson 38 S&W break tops I like a soft Lead bullet.
My grandfather carried one in the Alaskan Gold rush, and I used to be able to buy them for $35 at gun shows. The break top latch pin can pull the hole into an oblong shape, making the action loose.
My late father pointed out to me that bullet friction, not pressure from my handloads was doing that. So I stopped putting 158 gr JHP bullets through break tops with tiny latch pins.
This is a soft bullet:
http://www.westernbullet.com/ly3150gr.html

Colt police positive 38s&w from 1916 is a different deal. I was given 11,000 Win .355" 115 gr JHP bullets and I am trying to use them up. The Colt shoots those just fine.
 
Most revolvers chambered in .38 S&W/.38 Colt New Police/.38 Police Positive (Identical for all practical purposes, but only the .38 S&W still survives), are supposed to use .361"bullets.

Colt's Police Positive and Police Positive Special revolvers are a different animal.

Bore grove diameters run .354 to .356" with chamber throats at .358" These specifications are the same as the company's .38 Special revolvers.

Therefore the correct bullet diameter is .358", and allows a wide range of lead and jacketed bullets to be used, without having to go to the trouble and expense of obtaining the .361" odd-sized ones.

When these Colt models show up in the used market they are generally ignored by most buyers. Those that handload and are aware of the facts can often find them at very attractive prices. ;)
 
Off topic but,

Missouri Bullet Company has cast bullets for .38 S+W .361 Dia.

http://missouribullet.com/results.php?category=5&secondary=29

For the small difference in price I would go with the coated ones.

Never used the .38S+W bullets but I have used lots of MBC bullets in 9mm MAK, 9mm, .357 and .45 ACP.
They offer THR members a 5% discount (see the start of BDS PIF thread for the code) and are great people to do business with.
 
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