.38 Special +P and K-frames?

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ArchAngel and Lone Star are both correct.
I have a S&W "born" in 1957 that does not have the model prefix. I have no need to shoot +p in it but it would handle a cylinder or two per year for a long time. The major issue on the post WWII steel revolvers (not +p rated) will go out of timing sooner with a steady dose of +p and may develop endshake as noted above. Alloy and Model 36's are something else due to their design as Lonestar notes and old ones are not suitable for such loads.

Be especially sure that you don't fire heavy .38-44 type +p loads in a standard .38 special (+p or not). These approach light .357 magnum loads and are not good for your revolver at all. Look at the fps claims for factory ammo and if it is much faster than something like Remington .38 +p, then you probably shouldn't fire it in a K-frame except in one chambered for .357's or an old N frame .38-44 Smith.

boom boom-

I've been around awhile, and in 1966, wrote to S&W re safety in firing .38-44 ammo in a Model 10/M&P. Sales Manager Fred Miller replied, saying that it wouldn't blow up the gun, but if I anticipated the need to fire many such loads, I should buy a .357 or a designated .38-44 revolver. Otherwise, recoil would be excessive and wear would be considerably accelerated.

Colt always rated their steel guns for that hot load, as seen in, A History of the Colt Revolver, 1836-1940, by Haven & Belden. But I feel sure they just meant that the ammo was safe to fire, if need be. I certainly doubt that they'd suggest it routinely in any of their guns, apart from the SAA and heavy-framed New Service.

At the time that I wrote to S&W, I was a young airman not long out of HS. My unit of Air Police was issued USAF M-41 ball ammo for our .38's and some of us thought it gave too little power. The NCOIC took unit funds and went downtown in Denver and bought some .38-44 Hi-Velocity ammo. We loaded that for duty, but qualified with wadcutters or M-41. Given limited use, our Victory Model and Combat Masterpiece revolvers wouldn't see much wear, and I was glad to have the more potent ammunition.

In private life, because the M-19/66 is so close in weight to a K-frame .38, I've usually just used one of those. Being heat treated for .357 ammo, I wasn't concerned about occasional use of .38-44 or Plus P ammo in them. But, as with full .357 loads, such ammo should be limited. I'd fire it at big raccoons or coyotes in lieu of std. ammo, and occasional use on jackrabbits is okay, unless you shoot a lot of the big hares. And on men, I'd use the hotter loads.

About 1960, famed holster maker Chic Gaylord published, Handgunner's Guide. In it, he told how a S&W official told him that new M&P/Model 10's were being made of a new, stronger steel. This refutes Internet "experts' " idea that there is no strength difference between guns being made before and after model numbers were assigned. I believe that post 1957 guns were indeed stronger. More should have been written about this over the years.

But older ones were pretty strong. How many of you saw the photos of an M&P that someone fired six rounds through after a squib load blocked the bore? The barrel was split, but the gun didn't otherwise blow! The shooter wasn't aware of anything awry until he emptied the gun and saw that split barrel! Had he been firing Hi-Velocity ammo, the result may well have been different, and pretty grim.
 
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Lone star,
I was in the af too in civil eng. I qualified using a model 15 that was well worn shortly before the switch to the m9 Beretta which I hated due to small hands.

A few years ago, I saw what I thought was a clone of my model 15 but it had no such markings. Went to Supica's catalog and determined that it was made in 57 before the switch to numbers. It has a factory 5 inch barrel which was probably a overrun on a IL state police order that year or could have been custom. Bought it in a hurry.

From what I know about Smith's builds at the time is that revolvers were built out of parts on hand so that you really can't definitively determine that every part was made in the same year at that time. For that reason, I am cautious in what I fire and what I recommend to others in public forums. Timing issues, cracked forcing cones, and endshake, or even a cracked frame are too high a price to pay for +p in those guns even if I can get away with firing a few. I have other revolvers that are built for that sort of thing. Old firearms should be treated gently because they don't make them like that anymore. Imho
 
I have shot hundreds of +P modern loads in a S&W Mod 10-5 with no ill effect. These would loads would be factory and hand loads.
 
I have shot hundreds of +P modern loads in a S&W Mod 10-5 with no ill effect. These would loads would be factory and hand loads.

Well, a Model 10-5 IS a Model numbered gun. Post 1957. The factory says they're okay with Plus P. By the time you've fired thousands of Plus P rounds, you may see the timing and cylinder endshake issues we've mentioned.

What I warned about was guns so old that they may not have even had heat treated cylinders.

But thanks for mentioning your happy results, although you didn't specify just what Plus P ammo was involved.
 
"But thanks for mentioning your happy results, although you didn't specify just what Plus P ammo was involved."
Federal 129 gr Hydro-Shock +P and Speer 158 gr TMJFP +P mostly. My reloads were milder than the Speer loads.
 
I've inadvertently shot some +P through .38's that were specifically not rated for it (old Rossi snubbie), and it didn't do any harm, but that was only a cylinder or two. I don't do it on a regular basis.

All stainless steel Smith K frames are good to go if they're in proper working order.
 
These frequent Plus P threads are dangerous. First, Plus P use all the time will result in cylinder endshake occurring sooner, and is unnecessary. Plus P is for killing things.

.....Buffalo Bore or another brand or two, which is probably at or above former .38-44 pressures.

The ultimate threat is that a Buffalo Bore round or the old .38-44 Hi-Velocity ammo might be fired in a pre-1919 S&W. I think Colt also disapproves of Plus P in old guns.
No, the danger is in interchanging comments about +P, Buffalo Bore and .38-44 loads, as if they were anywhere near comparable. The original .38-44 loads were in the neighborhood of the .357 and in case you didn't notice, they aren't exactly growing on trees. I'd have to pull a book to get the exactly number Elmer Keith's .38-44 loads were well over 40,000psi (seems like 42 or 46,000). That's a LONG way from the current 18,500psi.

People have this odd perception of Buffalo Bore ammo as if it's all way over spec. Most of it is not. If it is, they are very clear about it. In fact, most factory ammo is loaded under maximums. The reason Buffalo Bore is so expensive is because they not only use premium components but they carefully craft their ammo with non-cannister powders to run right at industry maximums. There is no reason to believe their +P ammo is loaded over 18,500psi.

No one here has advocated using +P's in any S&W but a post-1957 K-frame or larger. +P's are fine for any of those guns and in any amount. The difference is a paltry 1500psi and that much can be found just in variations between guns/loads.
 
I’d hate for some of the .38 Special +P ammo I build for my newer J-frame to somehow find its way into my fine, old Combat Masterpiece if it’s not okay.
Guys, I'm sorry if I sparked some kind of squabble here, but the key phrase in the above quote from my OP is, "some of the .38 Special +P ammo I build for my newer J-frame." I don't know for sure what CUP my homemade .38 Special +P loads are running, my Hodgdon Manual says they're somewhere between 18,000 CUP and 19,000 CUP, but I have no way of measuring it. I guess they're +P loads, because my Hodgdon manual says they are, but I don't know for sure.
I do know this - because I love handloading, with the obvious exception of rimfire, I build almost all of the ammo for every gun my wife and I own. Heck, I still have the half box of Remington 200gr, lead, RN ammo my buddy threw in when he sold me that Model 67-1 in the first place - and that's been 20 years ago, or thereabouts.
I don't own any of the old .38-44 ammo either. I've read about it, but I can't remember actually seeing any of it. If I ever did run across some, I'd probably look it over out of curiosity, but I wouldn't buy it - I already handload real .357 Magnum ammo, and wouldn't have any use for .38 Special ammo that was almost as powerful.
Secondly, I mentioned in my OP that as far as I can tell, my Model 67-1 was built before 1982. I guess I could have been more clear about that, but I certainly didn't mean to imply that it could have been built early in the 20th century.
Anyway, thanks again everyone. I AM going to shoot my own, handloaded +P .38 Special ammo in my K-frame, Smith, stainless, model 67-1 revolver. I won't feed my revolver a steady diet of +P ammo because I have no reason to. But you can bet, when I get around to putting that revolver in a drawer in our living room desk, it will be filled with 158gr. SWC-HPs over healthy doses of HS-6.:)
 
Guys, I'm sorry if I sparked some kind of squabble here, but the key phrase in the above quote from my OP is, "some of the .38 Special +P ammo I build for my newer J-frame." I don't know for sure what CUP my homemade .38 Special +P loads are running, my Hodgdon Manual says they're somewhere between 18,000 CUP and 19,000 CUP, but I have no way of measuring it. I guess they're +P loads, because my Hodgdon manual says they are, but I don't know for sure.
I do know this - because I love handloading, with the obvious exception of rimfire, I build almost all of the ammo for every gun my wife and I own. Heck, I still have the half box of Remington 200gr, lead, RN ammo my buddy threw in when he sold me that Model 67-1 in the first place - and that's been 20 years ago, or thereabouts.
I don't own any of the old .38-44 ammo either. I've read about it, but I can't remember actually seeing any of it. If I ever did run across some, I'd probably look it over out of curiosity, but I wouldn't buy it - I already handload real .357 Magnum ammo, and wouldn't have any use for .38 Special ammo that was almost as powerful.
Secondly, I mentioned in my OP that as far as I can tell, my Model 67-1 was built before 1982. I guess I could have been more clear about that, but I certainly didn't mean to imply that it could have been built early in the 20th century.
Anyway, thanks again everyone. I AM going to shoot my own, handloaded +P .38 Special ammo in my K-frame, Smith, stainless, model 67-1 revolver. I won't feed my revolver a steady diet of +P ammo because I have no reason to. But you can bet, when I get around to putting that revolver in a drawer in our living room desk, it will be filled with 158gr. SWC-HPs over healthy doses of HS-6.:)
Threads often take on a life of their own, someone trying to change the premise as early as post #2.
 
I already handload real .357 Magnum ammo, and wouldn't have any use for .38 Special ammo that was almost as powerful.
Some folks load .38-44 loads for their .357's with cylinders too short for the 173gr Keith bullet. In which case, that bullet at 1350fps isn't "almost as powerful".
 
Some folks load .38-44 loads for their .357's with cylinders too short for the 173gr Keith bullet. In which case, that bullet at 1350fps isn't "almost as powerful".
There you go. Hit that nail on the head again.
I won't shoot those loads in my 1949 Pre-Model 14. I have 357s to use them in! SP101 is too short!
 
I've inadvertently shot some +P through .38's that were specifically not rated for it (old Rossi snubbie), and it didn't do any harm, but that was only a cylinder or two. I don't do it on a regular basis.

All stainless steel Smith K frames are good to go if they're in proper working order.

S&W began heat-treating the cylinders in their .38s in 1919, beginning with #316648 (Model 1905, 4th Change). The .32-20s also were made with heat-treated cylinders beginning in that year. The S&W gurus that I have talked to believe that +P ammo is very similar to prewar .38s and that the pressure standard for .38s was lowered in the early `70s in order to keep people from blowing up pre-WW1 guns.

Of course, this is all worth the pixels you're seeing, so caveat anagnostes.
 
Lord, don't get me started. I am continually amazed at the number of folks who take it upon themselves to be educators on YouTube when they don't have a friggin' clue.

Newcomers, etc. don't use something you see on YouTube (or other) as solid competent advise (like the following) :

" Hi ! This is Jas here opening this ( you fill in the blank) that I just got in the mail.
I haven't shot it yet, or even taken it down, but I'm enjoying looking at it, and flippin' it back and forth in my hands, getting my fingerprints on it and otherwise listening to my voice.
Hope you like this review (which tells you nothing), and blah blah .......and, more of the same that I just said about three (or was it four or five times) before ?
Well, I'll let you know when I've shot it at the range.
OK, see you then and I'll let you know.
Bye. "

What ever happened to Jas ? We never heard from him again. Hope he didn't shoot himself !:uhoh:
 
Look at the ballistics for standard velocity .38 Special in the 40's, 50's, and 60's, and compare it to the relatively anemic +P offerings of most manufacturers today and you won't worry much about using so-called +P in any steel frame K-frame made since WWII.

I have some Winchester 158 LSWCHP .38 Special +P that is advertised at only 890 fps out of a 4" barrel. This in no way approaches the specs of the time honored "FBI Load" and is even slower than many "standard pressure" loads of the past. I have no qualms using it in my 1957 vintage 2" Pre-10 M&P.

Actually the 158 gr. lswchp at 890 fps is the so called FBI or Chicago load. Winchester bullets are harder than Remington so don't expect as much expansion from the Winchester especially from a snubby.
 
Underwood +P 125 grain hollow points clocked 1190 FPS out of my SP101 2.25" and I think they advertise 1000 to 1250 with 158 grain bullets.
 
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