380 auto

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Closely check the size of the bullets you are using?

Full Metal Jackets seem to insert better for me than the copper plated versions.
 
When I first started reloading 380 auto, I was not able to crimp it enough after expanding and seating, even using the Lee factory crimp die. Bullets were loose and not accurately seated. Finally solved the problem by running the seating die down so the case crimps in the seating die, then finish up with the Lee factory crimp die for a good tight crimp. Sort of a 2-stage crimp.
 
I have a Kel-Tec P3AT in my pocket that has such poor case support that handloads cannot be any hotter than factory.

Still, at 11 ounces loaded, I can't feel it in my pocket, even if I jump up and down.

I would like to carry a 45acp loaded to 45 Super levels, but my life style threat is so low it does not justify the discomfort of carrying a brick in my pocket.


What does it all mean?
I would like to load a 380 with a big charge of Power Pistol and 158 gr XTP, but my little wimpy Kel-Tec is better off with a wimpy charge of Power Pistol and 90 gr Gold Dot, producing a pitiful 1100 fps.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

In answer to a few of the questions:

Yes, I am sizing the cases. I also checked a case after I was having so many issues with calipers and the post sizing was correct.

I was wondering about the bullets. They are sized .356 instead of .355 (from memory) like my 9mm bullets. It was my understanding that cast used a slightly larger, but these are jacketed. I did try to use a couple of these in my 9mm cases, and did have a little more trouble with them compared to my normal 115gr rounds, but I can do them with a little extra bell than I normal do.

As to not enough bell, yes I was thinking that too, but I'm at max flare before the case will no longer fit in my max gauge. I have not tried putting more bell and then have the crimp take it out, but I'll give that a shot this weekend.
 
.380 is the easiest and most trouble-free caliber I reload. I have used three different bullets...all loads have been fantastic. I load these on my 650.

I reload this caliber since I carry a P3-AT and practice with my reloads. I also have a Llama, CZ-83 and a PPKS that get plenty of range time.

95gr. Rainier RN
3 gr. Win-231
Win Primer
Mixed Brass
OAL: .974
FPS: 836 (CZ-83)
FPS: 700 (Kel-Tech)

95gr. Laser Cast LRN
3 gr. Win-231
Win Primer
Mixed Brass
OAL: .957
FPS:

95gr Winchester FMJ
3gr. Win-231
WSP
Mixed Brass
OAL: .922
(tested in CZ-83 and Llama-full function load)

Bob
 
Well, I put a little more bell as suggested, and that put the bullet in the case pretty firmly like I do with my 9mm's.

Seated the bullet, and just as before, the round won't enter my max cartridge gauge.

Got the Lee Factory Crimp die as suggested, and bingo, problem solved. Extra step, but that's a small price to pay.

I hit the range today, and all went well. Thanks everyone!
 
I load cast slugs for my .380acp BDA fairly lightly to practice with useing Bullseye and some 'warmer' jacketed HP's to have 'in case' useing Power Pistol.
same as my 9X18 Makarov (has a little more 'punch' than the .380) which I carry now, my BDA is my 'cook-out' or 'dress-up' gun.
 
If you already own a press and reload, the cost to add 380 reloading equipment is minimal enough to make it very cost effective. I started reloading 45acp and added the dies and turret to load my 380's. The biggest pain is finding the 380's after you've fired them. The casings have a bad habit of disappearing. I have 4 mags loaded and ready to go and when the time is just right (no one in the vicinity shooting 9mm) I open up with the 380 and then scrounge and grovel for as many as I can find. I load 95gr. lead rounds for $4.82 per box of 50 and 102gr Remington Golden Sabers for $9.82 per box of 50.
 
benzuncle said:
The biggest pain is finding the 380's after you've fired them. The casings have a bad habit of disappearing. I have 4 mags loaded and ready to go and when the time is just right (no one in the vicinity shooting 9mm) I open up with the 380 and then scrounge and grovel for as many as I can find.

OMG isn't that the truth!

I love it when you are on your hands and knees, and something comes over to help thinking you lost a contact. "Nope, I'm just looking for my .380 brass." :)
 
To load .380 acp successfully, start with a Lee undersized carbide sizer, make sure that your expanding ball is smaller than your bullet, and get a taper crimp die. The taper crimp presses the case mouth into the bullet at a slight angle and insures proper feeding while still being able to headspace on the case mouth.
 
Just a note of caution...there is a lot of barrel groove variation in various 380 pistols, and the .380 cases are tapered inside. Bullets up to 0.355 (same as 9-mm Luger) can be safely loaded, but long .355 bullets can buckle the case due to the inside taper.

Also, there are a few Makarovs around in .380, but most are 9-mm Makarov, which uses a 0.363 diameter bullet, even larger in diameter than the 0.358 bullets used in .38-Spl/.357 Mag. Be sure what you have! A .380 bullet will play Hell with accuracy!
 
The .380 cases are noticably shorter than the 9-mm cases, so they aren't too hard to sort quickly.

Actually, at the range I just quickly pick up both the 9-mm and .380 cases and sort 'em later, as I reload both!;)
 
Well, I put a little more bell as suggested, and that put the bullet in the case pretty firmly like I do with my 9mm's.

Seated the bullet, and just as before, the round won't enter my max cartridge gauge.

Got the Lee Factory Crimp die as suggested, and bingo, problem solved. Extra step, but that's a small price to pay.

I hit the range today, and all went well. Thanks everyone!

I've reloaded .380 for years. I was having the same problem with a 1000 or so .356 jacketed bullets I order a long time ago.

The problem is being caused by:

1) Bullet seater not matching bullet ogive (shape). RCBS die was way off. I've had similar problems with other RCBS dies and will stop using them

2) Slightly oversized bullet.

I fixed my problem by going to a new Lee .380 die set and ensuring that there is sufficient bell on the case before seating.

A nice aspect of the Lee die set is that they'll customize the seater to match the bullet for a low price.

Additionally, the Lee factory crimp die should never be used to fix "bad" reloads. All that's doing is smashing and distorting bullets. I do like the FCD for other purposes.

Good luck,
Erik
 
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