.40 Case gage?

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Peakbagger46

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Please recommend a good case gage for .40 S&W. Also, is it best to use the gage after sizing brass, or on a fully loaded round? I am going to be using this because I shoot glock pistols and want to be extra safe with the reloads.
 
I picked up mine when I got the dies and conversion kit from dillon. You can use the gage for the sized rounds, as well as the loaded rounds.

The round headspaces on the mouth of the case, so you can drop in a sized case to check for proper tolerances. Then when you load the round and remove the bell, you can drop the loaded round into the case to check oal and make sure you removed all the belling.

A case gauge nice quick check for any handgun caliber you decide to load.

Bottle neck cartridge case guages work differently for sized and trimmed cases only. FWIW.
 
Jim, that makes a lot of sense. So, if the sized brass fits in the chamber of my Glock, it should be safe, right?
 
+1, JimKirk beat me to the punch.
The barrel out of your pistol is a good case guage for that pistol.

Just take the barrel out, and drop loaded rounds in the chamber and see if they headspace correctly, and fall in & out freely.

Even a real case guage tells you exactly nothing about the rifling leade in your barrel and when & where a long seated bullet will hit it too soon.

rc
 
I use a Wilson gauge to check all my sized 9MM brass because I have an EMP with a SAMMI minimum chamber. I never check the loaded rounds, and so far so good.

Link to Wilson .40 S&W gauge

JimKirk is right, if all you are going to shoot it in is one pistol, you can use the barrel as a gauge.
 
Generally I like the gage for two reasons:

1) It is probably tighter than your chamber; if your loaded round will go in the gage it will go in any chamber I've seen, assuming it isn't loaded too long.

2) It gives a much better visual reference for whether the case is really seated or not. My eyes aren't sharp enough to tell based on how far out of the chamber a casehead is protruding.

Check out the last part of this thread for a variety of things to think about:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=494542&page=2&highlight=.40

I never updated that thread, but eventually I figured out that the issue was the LE Wilson gage itself; it measures less than .400 forward of the step where the case "headspaces"; i.e. the bullet itself was making contact and stopping the loaded round from dropping all the way in. I figured this out by trying to drop a bullet through the gage and it would not go through. Therefore I only use that gage to judge empty sized cases, and I think it works fine for that. Whether this is common, or is supposed to be dimensioned this way or not, I don't really know. My 9mm one is not.

So what I do for .40 now, which I still don't load that much but, here it is:

1) Size the case, check it in the gage
2) If it goes in the gage, load it and shoot.
3) If it doesn't, base size it with the GRx die and check it again next time.
 
"If by safe ... you mean they fit ... yes, but "safe" depends on what (primer/bullet/powder) you put in the cartridges too"

By "safe" I mean I am concerned about "glocked brass" or a "kaboom". Yes, my rounds have the right primer/bullet/powder.
 
Peak I am sorry that I missed the "Glocked" & "Kaboom" part...

No ..it will tell you nothing about "Glocked" or "Kaboom"... neither will a Wilson or any other gauge. There is no way to measure how much damage that has been done to "Glocked" brass other than looking at it and maybe cutting it in half.

If a brass looks too "Glocked" it goes to the recycle bucket... if it is slightly "Glocked" then I run mine through a Redding G-Rx die before sizing. It will smooth out any "smile" and make the brass fit the chamber. Some folks shoot big "smiled" brass and get by, I prefer to trash it and be safe.

I never had a "Kaboom", hope I don't ... so I can only relate to one. My understanding is that it is caused by unsupported brass that may be too heavily loaded, weaken brass or an unlocked action. You'll have to ask some one else for more info. I suspect that most are caused by double charges or light(duds) charges that left the bullet stuck in the barrel followed by a fully charged round.


Jimmy K
 
If you use the barrel to case gauge just know that you are not checking the rim portion of the case. It has been my experience, using case gauges, that this is the area where the most problems occur. One reason for this is that it is the only portion that you don’t run through the resize die. Another is that it’s the only portion of the case that is yanked on by the extractor and hammered on by the ejector.

In any case a loaded round can drop into a barrel just fine and get caught up upon entering the breech face. I used the barrel for a while until “mystery malfunctions” ruined a match or two. Now every round I shoot in competition goes through a case gauge.

DSC02128.jpg

DSC02130.jpg
 
If you want to make brass back to factory spec in the rim area you can use push through size dies on some cases but that sometimes leaves burs around the rim.

The best way I have found is to use a roll sizer the brass is dropped between two tapered dies and the base is rolled back to original dimensions including the extractor grove.


DSC02110.jpg
 
Case gauge

Every round I reload goes through my Lee Factory Crimp Die,1,200 rounds so far .380,9mm 40S&W zero FTF,FTE great die for a newbie to semi autos.
 
I use the Dillon case gauges and they work for all my pistols except one 1911 which is fitted with a tightly chambered 9mm match grade barrel. For that pistol I use the barrel as a case gauge. That tightly chambered 9mm 1911 will shoot less than 1" groups at 50 ft with a wide variety of bullets.
 
I keep the Wilson next to my press and put every 10th round or so through it. Works great, costs little.

Not that it matters but I also use the Lee FCD for all my calibers.
 
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