40 S&W FOR CUTTING PAPER??

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74man

74man

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I would like to know the least expensive bullet for target practice using my 40 S&W XD 40? I don't want to waste money buying good self defense bullets just to target practice with. I would like to know the best bullet at 115 grain and 124 grain. I am also wondering if there are semi wad cutters available for the 40 S&W auto loader? I also want to keep the recoil down because of the arthritis in both hands from 50 years of Sheetmetal Work, need recommendations for this load also !! Thanks, 74man
 
74man said:
I would like to know the least expensive bullet for target practice using my 40 S&W XD 40?

I would like to know the best bullet at 115 grain and 124 grain.
Click to expand...
I think this may be a typo as there typically aren't .40 S&W bullets in that weight range. Those are typically 9mm bullet weights.

Typical .40 S&W bullets weights are in the 135gr, 155gr, 165gr, and 180gr range.
 
Some LE agencies went to 180gr rounds to reduce recoil and the battering on their .40 S&W guns, but at least in .45 Auto, it always seemed as if lighter bullets seemed to me to have lower felt recoil.

In the generic, the .40 S&W is a fairly robust recoiling round. It is one reason many, if not most, LE agencies have moved away from the .40 S&W.
 
If you handload, the possibilities are endless.
If you don't, id suggest going to Ammoseek.com and entering in .40 s&w. The cheapest available will show up first, likely reman or stuff with aluminum cases, and on up from there. You will find best prices on probably just standard FMJ/TMJ ammunition.
Good luck.
 
74man said:
I would like to know the least expensive bullet for target practice using my 40 S&W XD 40? I don't want to waste money buying good self defense bullets just to target practice with. I would like to know the best bullet at 115 grain and 124 grain. I am also wondering if there are semi wad cutters available for the 40 S&W auto loader? I also want to keep the recoil down because of the arthritis in both hands from 50 years of Sheetmetal Work, need recommendations for this load also !! Thanks, 74man
Click to expand...
I just bought a box of 50 Sellier & Bellot 180gr from my LGS for $25. That's practice ammo.
 
I shot a BUNCH of Berry’s plated 180g under light loads of Unique or Win231 (231 was better metering but Unique noticeably more accurate). Start from the bottom and work up until you get reliable cycling.

Sadly my agency downgraded to the 9mm a couple years ago.
 
I'll throw in another recommendation for 165 grain FMJ if buying ammo.

Now if you want to reload, you can go with what ever weight bullets you want and load them mild.
 
74man said:
I would like to know the least expensive bullet for target practice using my 40 S&W XD 40?

also wondering if there are semi wad cutters available for the 40 S&W auto loader? I also want to keep the recoil down because of the arthritis in both hands
Click to expand...
If looking to reload, I would suggest the cheapest 180 gr TCFP (Truncated Cone Flat Point) either plated or coated lead as lighter 155/165 gr bullets will produce harsher recoil shock for your hands (I shot several hundred thousand 155/165/180 gr loads for USPSA as 40S&W was my match caliber and used Berry's plated bullets for practice).

With heavier 180 gr bullet, you can decrease the powder charge below published start charge and still cycle the slide. I used 180 gr plated bullets with 3.9-4.0 gr of W231/HP-38 to introduce new shooters to 40S&W which produced lighter than 9mm recoil and worked them up to 4.3 gr for training which was comparable to 9mm factory recoil.

BTW, Hodgdon load data for Berry's plated bullet - https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center
  • 40S&W 180 gr Berry's FP W231/HP-38 COL 1.125" Start 4.4 gr (872 fps) - Max 5.1 gr (984 fps)
 
sparkyv said:
I like this idea LiveLife, but it's around a half to one grain lighter than minimum book load data. No squib issues?
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Squib? Maybe for revolver loads that leak gas from cylinder gap.

Walkalong busted the myth long ago that semi-auto cases with any powder charge usually push the bullet outside the barrel. I tested lowering powder charges until bullets landed about 15-20 feet in front of me so yes, any powder charge in the case will likely push the bullet out the muzzle.

And 40S&W 180 gr TCFP bullet has long bullet base length to maintain neck tension ... So you can powder "work down" from start charge until slide doesn't cycle reliably. For my Glock 17, that point was around 3.9 gr of W231/HP-38, but for different pistols with different recoil spring rates, may require higher powder charge to reliably cycle the slide.
 
74man I just wanted to give you a warm welcome from a fellow tinknocker. I've been in the trade since '89. Things have changed a lot.

As for punching paper with a .40 I usually just use whatever inexpensive fmj ammunition is available locally. I don't reload so I buy factory stuff.
 
I shoot 10mm. I'm taking a hard look at the 40 caliber 170gr LSWC from Missouri Bullet Co.
On my future to do list. I know I'll like them.
(They will be downloaded to as light of load as they will accurately shoot and still cycle)
 
LiveLife said:
Squib? Maybe for revolver loads that leak gas from cylinder gap.

Walkalong busted the myth long ago that semi-auto cases with any powder charge usually push the bullet outside the barrel. I tested lowering powder charges until bullets landed about 15-20 feet in front of me so yes, any powder charge in the case will likely push the bullet out the muzzle.

And 40S&W 180 gr TCFP bullet has long bullet base length to maintain neck tension ... So you can powder "work down" from start charge until slide doesn't cycle reliably. For my Glock 17, that point was around 3.9 gr of W231/HP-38, but for different pistols with different recoil spring rates, may require higher powder charge to reliably cycle the slide.
Click to expand...

I have loaded powder puff loads using Berry's 180Gr plated bullets and Hodgdon Universal powder without any issues in pistols. The only time I had an issue (squib) was when I accidentally loaded 1 round of my powder puff loads in my Hi Point carbine, A light load won't push a 180Gr bullet out of a 16" barrel.
 
If you do not reload (and I don’t load for .40), these 165 gr Win FMJ aren’t hard kickers in my .40’s. Best part is they’re accurate to boot. They just aren’t as inexpensive as some of the other offerings.

C43A6AAD-2762-4A92-A9B8-0AC4449A2F97.jpeg

If you do reload the .40, the world is your oyster. Lots of bullet styles and weights to choose from, all with plenty of load data from mild to wild. :thumbup:

I have older bullet weights of 135 gr (Cor Bon) 155 gr (Cor Bon and Hydra Shoks) and the ol’ standbys at 180 grains… Including a box of the elusive (and apparently evil) Black Talons. 12671A32-3752-4FFA-830A-0CE7474AC56F.jpeg

I don’t shoot the .40 S&W all that much, but it is a very capable round for duty or SD. :)

Stay safe.
 
If you reload, plated or cast bullets will be the most economical. Otherwise, shopping for inexpensive loaded ammunition is hit or miss these days.

You will want to load them near what you are planning for SD loads otherwise, the SD loads will not shoot anywhere near the same as the practice ammunition.

I'm sure semi-wadcutters are available, but I have not seen them. They may be only available by purchasing a mould.
 
I shoot a LOT of Lee .401” 145gr SWC. 6-cav mold! (Casts to 155gr).

I load just enough to positively cycle the action of my G22. I “had” a S&W Shield that wouldn’t feed this bullet first round from a full mag. So, it got my old standard of the Lee 175gr TC (180gr) over 4.0gr of Bullseye for 840fps (from Glock).
I gave it to my BFF and old college roommate as a retirement gift. He shoots the snot out of it!!!
 
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