44 Magnum for rifle and H110

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shoots45s

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My wife bought me a Marlin 1894 in 44 Rem Mag for my birthday - isn't she great?

I'll reload for that and have been doing some research on load data for that caliber. It seems a lot of data is for use of that round in pistols and not sure if the data applies for use in a rifle.

One thing I've seen is that a lot of people like H110 powder but that it's 'finicky', that it has problems on the low load end and other issues with the powder and to be cautious using it.

What is the problem that this powder has in this caliber?

I don't want to have stockpiles of powders sitting around and would like to just use one powder. From the cautions I read on H110, I'm considering using IMR 4227 (but have seen good comments on 2400, Unique and Lil'Gun). It'll produce slight slower speeds but I'm willing to live with that. I'll probably use a 240 gr XTP bullet with a moderate to firm roll crimp and a magnum primer.

Comments welcome and thanks in advance.
 
I had a Browning Lever action in 44 mag. I also had my Ruger Redhawk.

I loaded from 240gr LSWC's to 180 gr full tilt JHP's. This was 23 years ago.

I used Bullseye for the lead, near max load, 2400 and H110 for the JHP's and JSP's in 180 and 240 with each running below the max charge by about a grain of powder.

In no instance ever did I have problems with firing the rounds, but I did have a couple of fits with chambering the LSWC's. They just became a bit stubborn getting them smoothly into the chamber.

The H110 does not like reduced loads and that is for sure. It is a Magnum Powder and should be used as such.

If you are going to push the LSWC's, may I suggest another powder besides Bullseye as it is such a small load/volume ratio FOR THE RIFLE.
Those LSWC's were just awesome to shoot out of the long gun. With a steel buttplate on that Browning, it was a wonderful change from being bashed by the 180 JHP's and especially the 240's!

I think you are going to have a great amount of fun with that Marlin. The choice of projectiles is pretty good and now it's no big deal throwing up to 300gr bullets down range with that caliber! The comfort afforded by a buttpad will be appreciated then, too!
 
2400 + Standard primers.

It will get you within 100 - 150 FPS of a Max charge of H-110, but is much more forgiving if you want to back off from full tilt boogie a little.

rc
 
@ Bigdaa - when you say "H110 doesn't like reduced load", what is the effect? I will likely not use lead bullets but jacketed or partially jacketed - 240 gr XTP right now though Hornady lists that for Pistols. Might consider the 265 gr Interlock FP - both bullets have the same BC. I'm going to avoid the Flextip.

@ rcmodel, I'll take a look at 2400.

Thanks for the info.
 
I use larger bullets and slow pistol powders out of my Ruger Carbine. Accuracy is 2" at 100 yards and I seem to get complete burn.
 
W296/H110 has been my powder of choice for magnum loads since I bought my SBH in 1975. I also shoot 240 gr LSWCs with 9 or 10 gr Unique, and Win 630, and Bullseye, and several others (including 2400 in less than max loads). But for full-up loads, especially in my Rossi M92 carbine, it's 296, and I have yet to find a more accurate or higher velocity powder. I use it in my 357s and 30 carbines, and it is great when used as it should be. It is when people want to reduce the charge more than recommended that squibs and other problems show up, so that's why I like to use the appropriate powder for the desired load. Use the right tool... :scrutiny:
 
I use H110 (23.4gr), magnum primers, Hornady 240gr XTP, and a tight crimp when loading for my 1894. H110 (W296 is exactly the same powder) likes it hot and pressurized, otherwise you may get some unburnt powder left in the case. Make sure to crimp the cases well. I use a Lee Factory Crimp die.
 
A long time reloader advised me that H110/W296 is volume sensitive. If there's too much air space in the casing due to using less than the rather generous minimum load that the pressure actually spikes up early and it can spike to higher pressures than even a max load.

Another example of this effect is seen with black powder loads. The black powder needs to be lightly compressed to avoid dangerous pressure spiking.

Now the H110 doesn't need to be compressed but it does want to fill most of the casing behind the bullet so that the burn is properly controlled.
 
What works in a .44 Mag Pistol will work in a .44 Mag longer barreled weapon (Marlin 94).

Switching to .44 Spec brass, I would check to verify feeding, but I don't expect any problems there.

H110/296 is a very good powder and I use a lot of it. It does have a more limited charge range. The lower end is reportedly inconsistent. What I have found is it/they, H110/296, are not a problem. Additionally, I have never found any need for the use of 'Mag' primers - I'm sure other will disagree. Heavy/very heavy .44 loads, by nature, do need some degree of crimp.

Other powders, Lt'gun, 2400 and many others have their own good points and bad. Lt'gun has a rap of burning top straps on revolvers. I have seen no definitive evidence of this. 2400 is the grand daddy powder for the .44 mag. Unique, my view, is too fast for maximum velocities out of pistol length barrels. That would only be magnified when out of rifle length barrels.

What ever you would expect to get out of a pistol, will only be a little faster from a rifle. (The actual velocity increase, sometimes is impressive.)

I don't see the need to 'hot load' for either. Want something more powerful, get a bigger weapon. The .44 Mag is excellent as is.
 
I've been useing H-110 in my 44 magnums since the 70's when i bought my first M-29... I settled on a load early on, and i've never had a moments problem with H-110 in any way, and it's been shot through a LOT of different 44 magnums through the years. And that's with thousands and thousands of rounds fired for hunting and competition! I'm still useing the same load to this day, and have no reason to change.

As for 44 light loads, i use unique and i'm happy with that powder too.

DM
 
2400 + Lead = Magnum greatness.

Really. When it comes to lead loadings in any magnum cartridge, whether its rifle or pistol, 2400 is fantastic. Of course it works well with Jacketed too.

As RC noted above, it comes very close to H110/296. In fact, in real life chrono testing, it usually comes even closer than the manuals show. I can promise you that whether you shoot paper, plates, or critters, they wont know the difference.
 
@ Bigdaa - when you say "H110 doesn't like reduced load", what is the effect? I will likely not use lead bullets but jacketed or partially jacketed - 240 gr XTP right now though Hornady lists that for Pistols. Might consider the 265 gr Interlock FP - both bullets have the same BC. I'm going to avoid the Flextip.

@ rcmodel, I'll take a look at 2400.

Thanks for the info.
BCRider touches on it. These magnum powders are volume sensitive and may result in spurious ignition patterns when under reduced load situations.

As I have Never run any but within the published range I cannot say that I have experiences such action.

Call me chicken I guess, but I don't have to prove stuff to myself generally when I'm dealing with the pros and their recommendations.

But I do still have two eyes and both hands filled with the requisite number of thumbs and fingers!!!!!!!:)
 
I've been loading magnum cartridges with H110 / 296 for many years and if anything, it is the most user friendly powders out there for magnum application in my opinion. Don't reduce charges to less than published start charges, and use magnum primers with it, that's it. All powders have perimeters in which they operate best or most efficiently.
And with any rimmed magnum cartridge, you must use a firm roll crimp.
Nothing more to it than that.

GS
 
I've been reloading the .44 Magnum since the 80's and I've used nothing but H-110. I have settled on loads of 24.0gr with a 240gr bullet and 20.0gr with a 300gr bullet. Both of these loads are excellent out of a 9 1/2" Super Redhawk. They should be great out of a rifle, with a bit more velocity due to the longer barrel.
 
I've been loading magnum cartridges with H110 / 296 for many years and if anything, it is the most user friendly powders out there for magnum application in my opinion. Don't reduce charges to less than published start charges, and use magnum primers with it, that's it. All powders have perimeters in which they operate best or most efficiently.
And with any rimmed magnum cartridge, you must use a firm roll crimp.
Nothing more to it than that.

I'm not sure how you can call it the most user friendly, and then add the warning about never reducing below the published data. I can get a decent load out of 2400 from 45colt standard pressure all the way up to full tilt 44 mag loads. It workds through out that entire range, safely, with no warnings at all.
 
under charge for h110

Ok, so the problem with H-110 is the potential for an under weight charge.

I use a Lee auto powder dispenser with an adjustable charge bar for loading my 45. It's rather difficult to get a charge that's too high with that, but I did find that it would occasionally dump a light charge for some reason.

That's why I now weigh every charge, every time, using an AWS Gemini-20 scale that's accurate to 0.02 gr and load to +/- 0.1 gr. I don't load enough to justify spending $200+ for an automatic powder dispenser so this works for me.

With that in mind, I can use any of the suggested powders but it seems that it's between H110 and 2400, but the consensus leaning toward H110.
 
H110 is a good powder, as you gathered from reading the posts. It's just not quite as versatile as 2400. Maybe start at 23.0gr and work up to max (or not) from there. If you don;t have an FCD, this is a good cartridge to have one for.

I use a Lee Perfect Powder measure and the Lee Safety Scale. Every charge gets weighed. Inbetween those two, I use a little Hornady $30 digital scale, just for a quick check before going to the safety scale.
 
23 Gr. H110 with Hornady 240 JHP has been my Ruger's pet load for decades. Typical of ball powders it meters beautifully with almost non existent over/under errors provided you have a very consistent technique with the charge handle. As always work the load up with published data.
 
My marlin 1894p eats lots of h110 along with 240gr xtp's and wlpp. Tons of fun

Yes, I use the WLPp too. I forgot to mention in an earlier post: I use Winchester Large Pistol primers. Winchester says they will work in non-magnum and magnum loads. The primer is hot enough to classify as a magnum, but not so hot as to be classified as nothing but a magnum.
 
I mainly shoot Hornady 240gr XTP HP out of my Marlin 1894. These have been very accurate out of my rifle.
24.0gr H110 = 1770 fps
24.5gr H110 = 1801 fps (max per Lyman and Hornady)

20.0gr 2400 = 1705 fps (20.5gr max per Lyman, 21.2 per Hornady). I stopped at 20.0gr of 2400

My second favorite load is a max charge of H110 with a Speer 210gr Gold Dot, just breaks 2,000 fps.

As always, work up to any max loads and verify all data is accurate and safe in your firearm.
 
A long time reloader advised me that H110/W296 is volume sensitive. If there's too much air space in the casing due to using less than the rather generous minimum load that the pressure actually spikes up early and it can spike to higher pressures than even a max load.

Funny...Hodgdon's own site says exactly the opposite...

It says that with lower loading density full powder ignition becomes sketchy, and the 'danger' lies in sticking a bullet in your barrel:

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

H110 and Winchester 296 loads should not be reduced more than 3%.

Reduce H110 and Winchester 296 loads 3% and work up from there. H110 and Winchester 296 if reduced too much will cause inconsistent ignition. In some cases it will lodge a bullet in the barrel, causing a hazardous situation (Barrel Obstruction). This may cause severe personal injury or death to users or bystanders. DO NOT REDUCE H110 LOADS BY MORE THAN 3%.
 
I have a similar rifle in .41 mag. I have had really good results with AA#5 for mid-range loads. It seems to meter better than Unique through my Lee Autodisk measure. I use H110 for the full house loads.
 
I bought a Ruger 44 carbine at a gun show for $180 in 2000. In better condition, it would have cost $400.
I shot cast bullets and then jacketed bullets. The blew up the muzzle like a banana peel.

A Ruger 44 carbine collector told me this is very common and there are no replacement barrels available.

I cut the banana peel off the muzzle and had a TIG welded on a tube to make it 16" legal. But that did not stabilize bullets.

So I found a new old stock 444 Marlin barrel with micro groove at Numrich for cheap.
My plan was that the front part of a 444 chamber looks just like a 44 mag chamber.
Cut off the rear of the chamber, drill a gas hole, weld on a gas fixture, bada bing, the Ruger 44 carbine has a new barrel.

I shoot the same load in the rifle as the revolvers for 44 mag:
24 gr H110 240 gr JHP, heavy roll crimp into cannelure.
1.6" OAL,
Measured 1720, 1756 fps with the new 20" barrel

Now I have a very heavy and very accurate 44 mag semi auto carbine made in 1962 and rebarreled in 2006.
Here is a 3 shot group at 100 meters with a 4x power scope.
 

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