45 Colt black powder metallic cartridge reloading

[Griffen]

I would like to load some 45 colt black powder metallic cartridges to shoot in one of my conversion revolvers. The components involved are Starline brass, Winchester large pistol primers, OE 3f black powder, and 250 gr Meister MB-45-250 bullets. Using the OE 3f, the case will be full enough to fill the space using 35 gr, but that is a little hotter than I might want and I am concerned about the lube situation.

I use a dry lubed wool wad in my cap and ball revolvers and have good success.

the questions:

1. I can’t determine from any source if the above Meister bullets use SPG lube. Does anyone know?
2. I can use the dry lube wads to take up some space and thought separating the wad with a 7/16” cardboard cut out from a milk carton or the like might keep the powder from getting fouled over time on the cartridges. This would allow about 30 gr of powder in the load and would be near authentic round velocity as loaded for the US Army back in the day. Has anyone tried this? I can find a lot of info on paper cartridges (and have made lots of those), but little on metallic and lubed wads.

Thanks in advance for the responses,
Griffen

 

[LaneP]

I would think that should work. I use about 30 gr FFg (volume) and a .030 vegetable wad with a Lee 255 gr cast in pure lead and SPG lube. That's roughly 1/16" compression or so with that bullet at the crimp groove. Not sure if the Meister's use SPG.

 

[Jimster]

Irrelevant post. Please delete.

 

[Jim Watson]

The picture on the Meister catalog www shows the usual hard blue wax lube and states "hard cast".
Once upon a time they sold bullets with SPG lube - I think I have some .38s left, but not in their catalog today.

Montana Bullet Works uses SPG but you will have to ask for it on pistol bullets.
Here is a real Lyman/Keith with a nice wide lube groove.
https://www.montanabulletworks.com/product/45-colt-lyman-452424-255gr-swc-k/

Missouri says
What about the bullets that say Black Powder?>
The ONLY difference between the bullets listed as "Black Powder" is the type of lube used. Black Powder-lubed bullets are for BP use, the others aren't.
https://missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=429&category=25&secondary=14&keywords=

Bull Shop says
We make NASA lube that is for black powder cartridge bullets.
https://bullshop.weebly.com/-45-caliber-cast-bullets.html
Again, something to make clear on the order, that is just one of three or four types.

 

[Griffen]

Thanks, everyone. Great information as always.

 

[BigBlue 94]

@Chuck R. Helped me get some load info together. He knows his stuff

 

[Chuck R.]

@Chuck R. Helped me get some load info together. He knows his stuff

\

Buuuut I was strictly a LR black powder rifle cartridge shooter, though some of the aspects transfer over.

As the other's stated, you need a BP lube, it not just keep the leading down, but it helps keep the powder fouling soft. IF you use standard smokeless lube you will get some horrific leading due to pushing a bullet through hardened BP fouling. It's why bullets designed for BP cartridges have big deep grease grooves.

I used wads for rifle shooting, started with milk cartons, ended up going to .060 LDPE. With rifle cartridge's it was to protect the bullet base, you might well be able to skip them in a pistol. I know guys that shot repeaters or didn't want to mess with a blow tube that used "grease cookies", but I never messed with them, nor did anybody I shot matches with.

One thing to avoid is airspace between your powder and bullet. All of my loads were compressed, both to avoid space and to get a clean burn. How much compression depended on the lot/make of powder. Some powders needed to be "stepped on", others (Swiss) didn't, so minor compression. To avoid damaging the bullet, I and most guys used a compression plug. My normal procedure is to drop powder using a 30" drop tube, place a wad on top and compress using a compression plug. Then I seat my bullet. Most of my match loads were "slip fit" without sizing the brass, nor crimping, so the bullet basically sat on top of the wad, on the compressed powder column. Not an option for the revolver or repeater guys.

 

[Show Me]

\

Buuuut I was strictly a LR black powder rifle cartridge shooter, though some of the aspects transfer over.

As the other's stated, you need a BP lube, it not just keep the leading down, but it helps keep the powder fouling soft. IF you use standard smokeless lube you will get some horrific leading due to pushing a bullet through hardened BP fouling. It's why bullets designed for BP cartridges have big deep grease grooves.

I used wads for rifle shooting, started with milk cartons, ended up going to .060 LDPE. With rifle cartridge's it was to protect the bullet base, you might well be able to skip them in a pistol. I know guys that shot repeaters or didn't want to mess with a blow tube that used "grease cookies", but I never messed with them, nor did anybody I shot matches with.

One thing to avoid is airspace between your powder and bullet. All of my loads were compressed, both to avoid space and to get a clean burn. How much compression depended on the lot/make of powder. Some powders needed to be "stepped on", others (Swiss) didn't, so minor compression. To avoid damaging the bullet, I and most guys used a compression plug. My normal procedure is to drop powder using a 30" drop tube, place a wad on top and compress using a compression plug. Then I seat my bullet. Most of my match loads were "slip fit" without sizing the brass, nor crimping, so the bullet basically sat on top of the wad, on the compressed powder column. Not an option for the revolver or repeater guys.

Good info