45 Reloads Don't Plunk

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Olympus

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I'm pretty sure I've shot these reloads in a Colt Combat Elite and they worked perfectly, but this new Kimber won't chamber them. Tried the plunk test in the Kimber barrel and they don't plunk. They get stuck tight before getting to the extractor groove. The reloads are 230gr MO Bullet Company coated. OAL is 1.272 to 1.273. My book says recommended OAL for this bullet is 1.275 so I should be alright there. I attached a couple photos for reference. Any ideas?
uploadfromtaptalk1448493546276.jpg uploadfromtaptalk1448493680201.jpg
 
paint the round with a sharpie and reinsert it into the barrel. rotate the round in the chamber, pull it out and see where the sharpie rubbed off. if it is rubbed off on the ogive of the bullet, you probably have a tighter chamber in the kimber and will have to seat the bullet a bit deeper.

murf

p.s. a good closeup of the loaded round (profile) would help. you may also have a bulge in the case.
 
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What is the diameter at the case mouth on the cartridge?

Kimber, from my experience, tends to stick more with SAAMI tolerance in their chambers.

Take a dark felt marker and color up the bullet and casing. When you do your plunk test, spin the cartridge in the chamber and see where it is hitting.

Edit: I sure am a slow typer! lol
 
Quite possible that the round isn't fully resized all the way to the bottom, or, as mentioned above, it's a tight/shorter chamber.

I'd follow the above advice about marking the bullet & seeing where the obstruction is. If it doesn't show anything, then double-check your sizing die.

I had a similar issue with a few rounds before I realized that my resize die had unseated itself slightly...
 
Every round I've tried is the same way. This one isn't unique.
 
I'm no expert, (I have never loaded a coated bullet) but it looks like there's a lot of grunge around the bullet at the top of the brass and a ring of some kind right above the top of the brass. Your crimp (removal of expansion) could be a little tighter maybe. I think a .45 is a straight-wall case. Unless it has a bulge, it should go in all the way. Your overall length appears to be a little long, maybe? How does the length compare to factory (230 RN) loads that will properly chamber? It's something simple that you haven't noticed yet. Hang in there.
 
You aren't seating them deep enough.

You still have full diameter bullet driving band sticking out of the case.

Put it all inside the case mouth.

Then adjust your taper crimp die to measure .471" - .472" at the case mouth.

BTW: Your 'book' doesn't have that type of bullet in it if it has cast or swaged lead bullets in it at all.

rc
 
I'd say the bullet's not seated deep enough. I've had that problem before, and had to seat a bunch of reloads a little deeper. Seat the bullet to where that shoulder is just barely above the case mouth. That shoulder may be contacting the rifling.
 
Post 7 photo shows lead/coating being shaved when seating. Bell/flare the case mouth more. Then taper crimp till round chambers.
attachment.php
 
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You didn't color the bullet driving band that's sticking out of the case.

And that is very likely your problem.

Color the bullet shoulder and try it again.

rc
 
my book says recommended OAL for this bullet is 1.275 so I should be alright there
That is the SAMMI max OAL for .45 ACP, not necessarily a seating length for that bullet. Some of my mags don't like bullets seated that long. I seat all RN at 1.260 to 1.265 OAL.

That said, that one may need to go shorten even than that.

Color the bullet with the sharpie, especially the part near the case mouth and try it again.

rcmodel is steering you in the right direction.
 
Agree. Seat the bullet a bit deeper and try again. Cast bullets are bit bit larger than copper jackets. If you have a tight chamber it will give you a problem. I have a CZ like that.
 
1. Seat first without crimp using these coated bullets. You are scraping coating onto case mouth as it tapers down while being driven deeper.
2. Seat deeper til shank edge is near flush w/ case mouth.
3. Final separate taper crimp to 0.470 and plunk again
 
Did you drop your brass into the barrel before you loaded the cartridge?
^This is what I was getting at. Need to rule out the first thing: proper resizing all the way to the bottom of case.

Then, if it works, refer to what rcmodel & others are instructing above...
 
Check it again. I really doubt your book recommends 1.275". That's the SAAMI max COAL for .45acp, and it will be too long for many bullets in many chambers...possibly even for some magazines.

On coated bullets with a "ledge" transition from driving band to ogive, I generally seat them such that the top of the ledge is even with the case mouth. Any longer, and coating tends to get scraped when chambering.
 
+1 to what rcmodel posted. I need to load MBC 230 gr RN to 1.250" for the bearing surface/driving band to not hit the start of rifling in my 1911.

attachment.php
 
You maybe should chamfer & debur your cases too.

The ink photo shows the edge of the case mouth is very tight.

Chamfering & deburring first will fix that.

rc
 
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