45 Schofield

[Hondo 60]

I maybe a bit slow
But it just occurred to me my 45 Colts can fire 45 Schofield

So now I'm looking for a 45 Schofield crimp die.
I've seen a few but they're taper crimp.
That confuses me. Shouldn't that be a roll crimp?

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

It’s not a heavy recoil cartridge so it’s really not a problem but, the Lee seating die does both. Read the description.
https://leeprecision.com/bul-seat-die-45-schof.html

 

[Slamfire]

You really want to shoot a shorter cartridge in your revolver?. You will have clean the lead ring out of your cylinder or the longer cartridges will stick. Cleaning the lead ring is a pain.

 

[Hondo 60]

Dip a brush in Hoppes # 9, chuck it in a cordless drill or screwdriver.
2 minutes & the "ring" is gone.

I shoot 38 Spl in a 357, 44 Spl in a 44 Mag & plastic rounds in both guns.

And, yes I know you can crimp with a seating die, but I prefer to do it in separate steps.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

IMO the potential carbon ring is not an issue. If you clean your re old er well after each range grip like I do you won't build up a ring which requires cleaning with a drill. I shoot .38 Special ammo in several .357 Magnum revolvers and I never have developed a carbon ring.

If you have a good number of .45 Schofield brass I see no reason not to use it in your 45 Colt.

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

I must agree with the above post. I shoot far more .38 special in my .357 magnum guns than actual .357. If you clean them within a day or two, you shouldn’t have a problem with carbon rings. I must admit, I’ve never seen an actual “lead ring”. In the event that you ever let it go a little too long, use some of this https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...mbedding-bore-cleaning-compound-prod1160.aspx.

It will shine your cylinders and barrel like new in short order.

Some people will tell you not to bother with the shorter cartridges because you can just reduce the longer ones, but sometimes you just want to shoot the shorter ones. I do it myself. It’s not a big deal. Load, shoot, clean, and repeat. It’s not like in the old black powder days when you had to do a breakdown and wash in between outings.

 

[nofendertom]

You could seat all your bullets first and then run them through again and crimp them all.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I use this stuff:
https://shooters-choice.com/4oz-lead-remover/
Works just like Hoppe's does on carbon dust but on lead. I think my current can is around 12 years old. Sounds about half full.

 

[Slamfire]

IMO the potential carbon ring is not an issue. If you clean your re old er well after each range grip like I do you won't build up a ring which requires cleaning with a drill. I shoot .38 Special ammo in several .357 Magnum revolvers and I never have developed a carbon ring.

If you have a good number of .45 Schofield brass I see no reason not to use it in your 45 Colt.

I shot a case of Zero +P LSWC through a M66 S&W. The lead ring that developed was such, I had to punch out 357 cases, because fired cases formed around the lead ring. And then, all the solvents solutions were no solution at all. There is a reason Brownell's sells Lewis Lead Removers, and that reason is, lead builds up, and solvents are not an aggressive lead remover. But those meshes that come with a Lewis Lead Remover will clean out a cylinder. A long time ago Clymer sold a deleading reamer for cylinders, but I have not seen one of those in ages.

If there is smoke, then there was a fire. And, never say never. And that is why I developed "38 Special" equivalent loads in my 357 Magnum cases. I do not like cleaning lead rings.

 

[MEHavey]

Funny thing about those pics....
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6632935&postcount=15
(7" gong @ 25yds/45 Colt firing Schofield/260grKeith)

.

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

I shot a case of Zero +P LSWC through a M66 S&W. The lead ring that developed was such, I had to punch out 357 cases, because fired cases formed around the lead ring. And then, all the solvents solutions were no solution at all. There is a reason Brownell's sells Lewis Lead Removers, and that reason is, lead builds up, and solvents are not an aggressive lead remover. But those meshes that come with a Lewis Lead Remover will clean out a cylinder. A long time ago Clymer sold a deleading reamer for cylinders, but I have not seen one of those in ages.

If there is smoke, then there was a fire. And, never say never. And that is why I developed "38 Special" equivalent loads in my 357 Magnum cases. I do not like cleaning lead rings.

That’s one thing you have to remember with shooting shorter cartridges. Shoot them last. If you shoot short cartridges first, you will invariably run into the problem you described. If you shoot different cartridges in one outing, always go long to short. If you only do one type per outing followed by a cleaning you should be good, but 100 dirty .38 special through a Henry followed by a days rest and then some .357 will cause the extractor will rip the case heads off. Ask me how I know…

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

So now I'm looking for a 45 Schofield crimp die.

Quite a few years before the Schofield ammo and guns appeared, I was loading for my 2nd model
and also had no way to roll crimp.

I stuck a spare .45 Colt seat/crimp die in a chop saw and cut enough off to allow for it to be used
on my trimmed to length .45 Colt cases.
And yes, the smaller rimmed Colt cases would sometimes slip the extractor.

JT

 

[whughett]

Starline makes a Cowboy 45 Special case, specifically for action shooters that want a reduce load that would be unreliable in a standard 45C case.

I load them for percussion revolvers conversion cylinders that require a shorter OAL.

And like several here I shoot primarily 38 special in my 357 magnums with no lead ring. Powder fouling ring after many rounds may make it difficult to fully seat a 357 after shooting 38 special depending on powder used.

Perhaps the lead ring is more of a problem in +P or loads that are pushing the envelope with lead bullets.

 

[twarr1]

One of the pluses of running a 357 revolver is the ability to also shoot 38’s. I’ve never had an issue.45 Colt/Schofield is no different.
A taper crimp would probably be fine for the Schofield, but trying to do both with one die, seat and crimp, over-complicates things. I like to do it in separate operations, although I admit, my RCBS 357 dies do a good job of seating accurately and doing a nice roll crimp in one step. My Lee dies - not so much.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Starline makes a Cowboy 45 Special case, specifically for action shooters that want a reduce load that would be unreliable in a standard 45C case.

I load them for percussion revolvers conversion cylinders that require a shorter OAL.

And like several here I shoot primarily 38 special in my 357 magnums with no lead ring. Powder fouling ring after many rounds may make it difficult to fully seat a 357 after shooting 38 special depending on powder used.

Perhaps the lead ring is more of a problem in +P or loads that are pushing the envelope with lead bullets.

I'm sure volume makes a difference, too. When I go out shooting revolvers I'm shooting at most 50 rounds from any one gun at an outing. Some folks are putting ten times that through their revolvers. If you shoot 500 .38Spl and then switch to .357Mag, yes, I can definitely see carbon or lead ringing being an issue. For me, shooting 12 or 18 .38Spl then switching to .357Mag for 6 or 12 isn't even noticeable.

 

[bangswitch]

I shot a case of Zero +P LSWC through a M66 S&W. The lead ring that developed was such, I had to punch out 357 cases, because fired cases formed around the lead ring. And then, all the solvents solutions were no solution at all. There is a reason Brownell's sells Lewis Lead Removers, and that reason is, lead builds up, and solvents are not an aggressive lead remover.

That little tool was an absolute necessity when shooting PPC matches. A days' worth of wadcutters would have the cylinder, forcing cone and barrel so leaded up it became a hazmat issue .

I don't worry about the lead ring too much nowadays, and I mix and match my .38 and .357 shooting. Just clean the gun well between outings. It's a bigger pain to me when I have to reset my flaring and seating dies when I reload ammo, between the .38 and .357, and my .40S&W and my 10mm loads.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Dip a brush in Hoppes # 9, chuck it in a cordless drill or screwdriver.
2 minutes & the "ring" is gone.

I shoot 38 Spl in a 357, 44 Spl in a 44 Mag & plastic rounds in both guns.

And, yes I know you can crimp with a seating die, but I prefer to do it in separate steps.

They’re Lee. They’re cheap. Buy two. Use one for seating and the other for crimping. Remove the seating stem and viola! It’s a crimping die!

 

[Onty]

I shot a case of Zero +P LSWC through a M66 S&W. The lead ring that developed was such, I had to punch out 357 cases, because fired cases formed around the lead ring. And then, all the solvents solutions were no solution at all. There is a reason Brownell's sells Lewis Lead Removers, and that reason is, lead builds up, and solvents are not an aggressive lead remover. But those meshes that come with a Lewis Lead Remover will clean out a cylinder. A long time ago Clymer sold a deleading reamer for cylinders, but I have not seen one of those in ages.

Words of wisdom from somebody who shoots a lot, and prefer shooting over scrubbing and cleaning.

Here is something else. When a ring is developed shooting any Special round, and full magnum ammo is used without cleaning, the crimp of longer magnum case, while opening, will interfere with ring, and that could drive pressure very high.

 

[Onty]

I maybe a bit slow
But it just occurred to me my 45 Colts can fire 45 Schofield

So now I'm looking for a 45 Schofield crimp die.
I've seen a few but they're taper crimp.
That confuses me. Shouldn't that be a roll crimp?

You are right that 45 Schofield could be fired in 45 Colts. However, keep in min mind that noted ring will develop in 45 Colt chamber with prolonged shooting. If I am in cowboy shooting, I would go with one of those top break revolvers, chambered in 45 Schofield. For those who prefer 1973 and other solid frame revolvers, IMO far better solution is to get one of those combo guns in 45 Colt and 45 ACP, and use 45 Cowboy Special cases in 45 ACP cylinder.

As for taper crimp on 45 Schofield dies, first time I've heard about that. Personally, I wouldn't bother with it. 45 AR bullet seating and crimping die is the way to go. If I could assembly .455 Webley Mk I (longer) ammo using 45 AR die, I think that you should be able to assembly 45 Schofield ammo without problem

 

[Hondo 60]

Thanks for all the replies so far.
I probably will shoot like 1 box (50) at a time.
So it's not like the ring will sit for months w/o cleaning.
I found a 45 Colt crimp die in my collection, so all is well.

Again, TYVM
Happy shooting!

 

[Obturation]

that is why I developed "38 Special" equivalent loads in my 357 Magnum cases.

That's what I do .
I keep shorter cases just in case one day I need them but I don't bother with them if I've got good brass that's longer. Maybe it's different if you've got 38sp revolvers, I don't . same with 454 casull and 45 colt, I've got 45 colt brass but I don't use it - a fair amount of my 45 colt cases used to be 454 cases (intended for high pressure 45 colt loads).

If you've got a shortage of cases, load the shorts. If you've got plenty of full length cases, I'd use those.

As to the lead/crud ring, I don't know. Some guns are more tolerant of it and the ammo matter. If you've got a bunch of 38 special , soft lead loaded with unique or similar powder that leaves stuff behind- yeah, you'll have some stuff left behind. In contrast , if you've got jacketed or coated bullets over a powder like vv n320 you won't have much if anything remaining .

Either way isn't a big deal, shove a wad of copper (nonmagnetic) chore boy through each chamber and it's like nothing ever happened . you could even squirt oil on it if you're feeling fancy. Lead is not a big deal.

I don't know if it's true but I have heard internet lore that people have had rings permanently embedded into their chambers from firing high pressure loads while the carbon ring from the shorter cases was thick. I don't know, sounds weird.

I've never had schofield brass, seems unusual unless you've got a revolver chambered for it. It's got to hold a premium over 45 colt brass, I'd imagine. If it were me, I'd try to trade them, not really worth it unless you do have such a revolver and if you do, we've gotta see it!!

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I shot a case of Zero +P LSWC through a M66 S&W. The lead ring that developed was such, I had to punch out 357 cases, because fired cases formed around the lead ring. And then, all the solvents solutions were no solution at all. There is a reason Brownell's sells Lewis Lead Removers, and that reason is, lead builds up, and solvents are not an aggressive lead remover. But those meshes that come with a Lewis Lead Remover will clean out a cylinder. A long time ago Clymer sold a deleading reamer for cylinders, but I have not seen one of those in ages.

If there is smoke, then there was a fire. And, never say never. And that is why I developed "38 Special" equivalent loads in my 357 Magnum cases. I do not like cleaning lead rings.

What I came up with years ago still works. I have never used it on anynof my revolvers but I have helped out other shooters at the range. I have two empty .357 Magnum shells which I apply a heavy inside chamfer. This makes the case mouth very sharp but the outside of the lip is flush up against the cylinder wall. Tap the case into each charge hole and it easily removes any ring that is there. It works very well every time.