5.7x28

[twarr1]

First attempt at reloading the 5.7x28 the rounds wouldn’t chamber in my Ruger 57. This is the second attempt.
The Lee FL sizing die I’m using doesn’t press the shoulder back far enough. Adjusting per Lee’s instructions, the shoulder was .030” off.

It also scraped the coating from several cases..

By screwing the die in a full turn I was able to get it to < 0.10”. I’m thinking I’ll need to grind a few thousandths from a shell holder or the die.

After charging the cases with 5.0 gn of Ramshot True Blue, I seated the Hornady 40 gn V-Max’s to an OAL of 1.580”.

The seating die crushed one case

I’m thinking I might should invest in some better dies. Do any of you 5.7 loaders have a recommendation? I’m not sure my Lee Limited Edition 5.7x28 set is up to the task.
This 5.7 adventure has been a challenge!

 

[Mark_Mark]

First attempt at reloading the 5.7x28 the rounds wouldn’t chamber in my Ruger 57. This is the second attempt.
The Lee FL sizing die I’m using doesn’t press the shoulder back far enough. Adjusting per Lee’s instructions, the shoulder was .030” off.
View attachment 1033375
It also scraped the coating from several cases..
View attachment 1033378
By screwing the die in a full turn I was able to get it to < 0.10”. I’m thinking I’ll need to grind a few thousandths from a shell holder or the die.
View attachment 1033376
After charging the cases with 5.0 gn of Ramshot True Blue, I seated the Hornady 40 gn V-Max’s to an OAL of 1.580”.
View attachment 1033379
The seating die crushed one case
View attachment 1033380
I’m thinking I might should invest in some better dies. Do any of you 5.7 loaders have a recommendation? I’m not sure my Lee Limited Edition 5.7x28 set is up to the task.
This 5.7 adventure has been a challenge!

I reloaded 5.7 for a Ruger successfully. I used a RCBS small base die and did everything normally. Works!

 

[Mark_Mark]

First attempt at reloading the 5.7x28 the rounds wouldn’t chamber in my Ruger 57. This is the second attempt.
The Lee FL sizing die I’m using doesn’t press the shoulder back far enough. Adjusting per Lee’s instructions, the shoulder was .030” off.
View attachment 1033375
It also scraped the coating from several cases..
View attachment 1033378
By screwing the die in a full turn I was able to get it to < 0.10”. I’m thinking I’ll need to grind a few thousandths from a shell holder or the die.
View attachment 1033376
After charging the cases with 5.0 gn of Ramshot True Blue, I seated the Hornady 40 gn V-Max’s to an OAL of 1.580”.
View attachment 1033379
The seating die crushed one case
View attachment 1033380
I’m thinking I might should invest in some better dies. Do any of you 5.7 loaders have a recommendation? I’m not sure my Lee Limited Edition 5.7x28 set is up to the task.
This 5.7 adventure has been a challenge!

as I recall, I trimmed back the case as short as possible and my COL was 1.500. let me look back at my notes

 

[WiTom]

5.7x28. The cartridge everyone hates to love.

 

[Mark_Mark]

5.7x28. The cartridge everyone hates to love.

the seating depth is dumb! the body of the case should be fatter and the neck longer

 

[twarr1]

I agree the case could’ve been larger diameter. The 5.7x28 is more of an “S” neck than a bottleneck with 2 angles and a shoulder.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I agree the case could’ve been larger diameter. The 5.7x28 is more of an “S” neck than a bottleneck with 2 angles and a shoulder.

Oooh well, yeah, I did COL under 1.5” and the trim the case a bit to fit the bullet

 

[rkittine]

I also use an RCBS Small Base Dies. I have shaved shell holders to allow more lattitude.

Bob

 

[Ferris]

I use the lee dies with no issues and I reload both for a a PS90 and FiveSeven. You almost always need to trim the case after sizing, seriously 1 out of 10 doesn't need it the rest always do.

I've done some testing and for me I found that either I need to maintain the coating or completely remove it. For cases with the coating intact I just soak the cases in warm water and dish soap for about 15 minutes then let dry out before reloading. For cases with damaged coating I tumble in pins and soap for 4 hours it removes the coating.

If you want I'll get some measurements and pics but iirc the shoulder is noticeably different when compared to factory rounds. I think trim length is what is critical here.

 

[twarr1]

@Ferris, photos and measurements would be great!
I’ve noticed the less case lube, the better formed the case comes out. can’t explain why..
I loaded another 10 and they functioned fine in my 57.
The difference between a factory loaded round and a fired case is dramatic. For all practical purposes, I’m fireforming FN 5.7x28 into *whatever my chamber is”. The goal for me now isn’t really to size match factory cartridges but to resize just enough to cycle well in my gun.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I use the lee dies with no issues and I reload both for a a PS90 and FiveSeven. You almost always need to trim the case after sizing, seriously 1 out of 10 doesn't need it the rest always do.

I've done some testing and for me I found that either I need to maintain the coating or completely remove it. For cases with the coating intact I just soak the cases in warm water and dish soap for about 15 minutes then let dry out before reloading. For cases with damaged coating I tumble in pins and soap for 4 hours it removes the coating.

If you want I'll get some measurements and pics but iirc the shoulder is noticeably different when compared to factory rounds. I think trim length is what is critical here.

agree, I completely removed the plastic coating with rubbing alcohol and a rag. Looks better too

 

[Mark_Mark]

@Ferris, photos and measurements would be great!
I’ve noticed the less case lube, the better formed the case comes out. can’t explain why..
I loaded another 10 and they functioned fine in my 57.
The difference between a factory loaded round and a fired case is dramatic. For all practical purposes, I’m fireforming FN 5.7x28 into *whatever my chamber is”. The goal for me now isn’t really to size match factory cartridges but to resize just enough to cycle well in my gun.

oooh yeah, I could care less about factory specs, just want it to function on the gun repeatedly

and that’s why we are reloaders!

 

[Ferris]

I snapped a pic let me know if you want to see anything else or what you want measured.

So far I haven't had any issues, with going bang or ejected/cycling in both platforms with my reloads. Even the time I got dumb and used small pistol by accident. I use Accurate 7 and the 40gr vmax for the record.

 

[swg1]

I use hornady dies.

 

[twarr1]

Third attempt:
Loaded 10 rounds with 5.0 gn True Blue, 40 gn Hornady V-Max, COAL 1.580”.
All 10 ran fine in my Ruger 57 so I loaded
20 @ 5.0 gn,
10 @ 5.1 gn
10 @ 5.3 gn.
All 40 of this batch ran flawlessly. A few of the 5.3 gn showed cratering of the fire pin indention, and some minor flattening. Curious, since LoadData shows starting load of True Blue at 5.6 gn. for 40 gn V-Max. But, I’m using SPP so I don’t know if that is a factor.
Some things I’ve learned:
- FL sizing die adjustment is critical. This shouldn’t have been an issue for me, but for the 5.7 I started with Lee’s adjustment instructions. Didn’t work for me. Once I adjusted the die like I do for other bottleneck cartridges the chambering issue went away.
- Trim length. I’m used to only trimming bottleneck cartridges after 2-3 firings. Thanks to a tip from @Ferris I found almost every case needed trimming. Some needed quite a bit of trim.
- It seems, at least with the Ruger pistol, the mysterious coating isn’t a huge deal. I noticed no difference in cartridges with perfect coating, missing coating, etc. I may find it *is* important in some circumstances, but for now the polymer seems to be a non-issue.
My new Ruger 57 doesn’t run perfectly with FN factory ammunition, so I think a string of 40 reloads without issue is a pretty big win.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Third attempt:
Loaded 10 rounds with 5.0 gn True Blue, 40 gn Hornady V-Max, COAL 1.580”.
All 10 ran fine in my Ruger 57 so I loaded
20 @ 5.0 gn,
10 @ 5.1 gn
10 @ 5.3 gn.
All 40 of this batch ran flawlessly. A few of the 5.3 gn showed cratering of the fire pin indention, and some minor flattening. Curious, since LoadData shows starting load of True Blue at 5.6 gn. for 40 gn V-Max. But, I’m using SPP so I don’t know if that is a factor.
Some things I’ve learned:
- FL sizing die adjustment is critical. This shouldn’t have been an issue for me, but for the 5.7 I started with Lee’s adjustment instructions. Didn’t work for me. Once I adjusted the die like I do for other bottleneck cartridges the chambering issue went away.
- Trim length. I’m used to only trimming bottleneck cartridges after 2-3 firings. Thanks to a tip from @Ferris I found almost every case needed trimming. Some needed quite a bit of trim.
- It seems, at least with the Ruger pistol, the mysterious coating isn’t a huge deal. I noticed no difference in cartridges with perfect coating, missing coating, etc. I may find it *is* important in some circumstances, but for now the polymer seems to be a non-issue.
My new Ruger 57 doesn’t run perfectly with FN factory ammunition, so I think a string of 40 reloads without issue is a pretty big win.

thanks for the Leg Work!!!

 

[Ferris]

I’m using SPP so I don’t know if that is a factor.

Yes it is, I'm not admitting to do the same thing but for some reason when I, er my friend, first started the 5.7 he used SPP, I think because he was loading for his pistol he just assumed, the higher loads he worked up showed signs of pressure so he settled on a lower load. Then one day realized it was originally a rifle cartridge and checked the manual and it's a rifle primer and reworked up the loads. The higher loads worked fine with no signs of pressure and that's what I , er he loads to today .

I don't have my load in front of me, but I use Accurate 7 , small rifle (wsr), 40gr vmax and they chronographed faster than factory in the ps90.

Nice work, btw!!!

 

[twarr1]

Nice score at San Antonio BPS today. $42.99/50 minus vet discount. I just happened to be in the area around opening time. They also had some CFE BLK. I figured as I seemed to be on a lucky streak I’d ask about primers as well! But unfortunately, no primers stashed behind the counter.
Happy to see 5.7x28mm for “beginning of pandemic” prices. Not PRE-pandemic prices but better than the $72 I’ve been seeing. At least I have 200 more cases to reload now!

 

[twarr1]

@Ferris ; thank you.
I’m glad you.. I mean your friend, got it worked out!
The LoadData recipe I used called for small pistol magnum primers. All the others I’ve seen, including my Hodgdon 8.0 call for SRP. Since I have *many* more SPP, and most of my supply of rifle primers are CCI 41’s, I thought I’d try the SPP. I know they’re slightly thinner than SRP. Not sure about the small pistol magnums. I don’t have my reference handy.

 

[Durango_Dave]

I reload 5.7x28 for my son who shoots a KelTec P50.
I heard it was going to be difficult but I haven't had any issues, maybe because I took my time and was extra careful setting everything up.
I use 40 grain Hornady V-Max bullets and True Blue powder.

Even factory ammo from HK is high enough pressure to flatten and crater the primers. You can also see the imprint of the extractor in in the brass case. (bottom of the image of the head of both cases)



Some cartridges experienced more pressure than others. This is evident in the above picture. Those are both factory cartridges. The cartridges experiencing the highest pressure are HK factory 40 grain Hornady bullets. My chronograph says these factory loads are 2003 feet per sec and 357 foot/lbs of force at the muzzle. (my handloads use this same 40 grain bullet)
The factory cartridges that experienced a bit less pressure are 27 grain bullets.

You can see the primers are crimped from the factory and they use green sealant.

Here's the flattened primer again compared to my reload.

EDIT: they specify rifle primers for 5.7x28 and I now know it's because of the high pressures experienced by these cartridges.

 

[45CalPal]

First attempt at reloading the 5.7x28 the rounds wouldn’t chamber in my Ruger 57. This is the second attempt.
The Lee FL sizing die I’m using doesn’t press the shoulder back far enough. Adjusting per Lee’s instructions, the shoulder was .030” off.
View attachment 1033375
It also scraped the coating from several cases..
View attachment 1033378
By screwing the die in a full turn I was able to get it to < 0.10”. I’m thinking I’ll need to grind a few thousandths from a shell holder or the die.
View attachment 1033376
After charging the cases with 5.0 gn of Ramshot True Blue, I seated the Hornady 40 gn V-Max’s to an OAL of 1.580”.
View attachment 1033379
The seating die crushed one case
View attachment 1033380
I’m thinking I might should invest in some better dies. Do any of you 5.7 loaders have a recommendation? I’m not sure my Lee Limited Edition 5.7x28 set is up to the task.
This 5.7 adventure has been a challenge!

I know this is some what an older post, But I am a huge ruger fan, and have been looking at getting a ruger 57, or the Ruger American compact (8649 model)
To the OP and anyone else that has it, whould you recomed it?

 

[Mark_Mark]

loading the 5.7 ammo!

Negatives:
ZERO room for being sloppy
min-max load in .7 grains +\-
seating depth is SMALL
not for people with fat fingers

Positives:
Factory ammo is EXPENSIVE

The wide range of bullet/powder combo, anything under 40gn .224 will fit in this little boy. You can make whatever you can imagine.

Fun Factor

 

[Mark_Mark]

Does Hornady make a seating die with the metal stem tube that guilds the bullet straight ?

that would be a huge help for this little boy

 

[twarr1]

I know this is some what an older post, But I am a huge ruger fan, and have been looking at getting a ruger 57, or the Ruger American compact (8649 model)
To the OP and anyone else that has it, whould you recomed it?

Yes I would recommend the Ruger 57. It’s accurate, easy shooting and well balanced. I had to send mine back to Ruger for a replacement trigger bar, but as usual, Ruger CS was great and the pistol has run fine since then.
When I go to the range the Ruger 57 is the gun everybody wants to shoot.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Yes I would recommend the Ruger 57. It’s accurate, easy shooting and well balanced. I had to send mine back to Ruger for a replacement trigger bar, but as usual, Ruger CS was great and the pistol has run fine since then.
When I go to the range the Ruger 57 is the gun everybody wants to shoot.

It’s also very light weight for a full size + gun! I love my Ruger 5.7

and it comes Optic Ready!