6.5-06 resizing

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scottishkat

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Hi All,

Am in the process of creating new 6.5-06 brass from some new 30-06 Lapua brass. The question I have is there a need to fire form with a reduced load cream of wheat etc or just shoot minimum load with the firearm.

My first attempt at reforming has left a bit of a donut in front of the 30-06 shoulder which should straighten out when fired. The necks are only increasing about .001 so I don't believe there is a problem there.

Thanks in advance.

Bob
 
You'd have better luck with 270 or 25-06 brass. Question I have is do you have a rifle in 25-06? If so I would not use 25-06 brass and regardless of what you use keep the 6.5-06 segregated and well marked. If you look at the two side by side it is pretty tough to see any difference. If you grab a 6.5 and chamber it in the .25 you probably won't realize it and will probably at a minimum set the bolt back or at worst have a bomb. Ask me how I know, I was lucky and only had to get the head space corrected. I got rid of th 6.5 and all the ammo.
 
I thought about the 25-06 brass. Opted to go the Lapua route instead still could go with Norma 25-06 brass but have been so impressed with Lapua that it seems the best value.

I don't have a 25-06 and my only 30-06 has been sold recently. I do have a 270 win. But thanks for the advice on segregation I will be marking the 6.5-06 brass somehow any tips appreciated.

Good luck and Shoot straight

Bob
 
While not the 6.5-06, I am using the same Lapua 30-06 cases for my 25-06 AI. My FF loads shoot within an inch or less of my final loads out to 300yds, if I am sighted in with them. There is only about 2 clicks of the scope difference in the zero of the two. Makes it nice to be able to use the FF loads for hunting if wanted.

I tried a couple of things to get the cases to form the first time out, what I ended up with was simply setting the sizing die so that I can get just a feel of the false shoulder as the bolt closes. Once I have that with the empty case, I use a standard 25-06 load with a 120gr Hornady over IMR-4831. I picked out a few Winchester cases and worked up incrementally until I got them to form properly with no issues, then switched over to the good stuff. I am sure that you can find data if not shoot me an email and I will scan you some of what I have in my manuals if needed.

You could easily do the same, the thing you will probably find as as I did, that your FF loads shoot almost as well as your final ones do.

I would just look for the best but cheapest bullets in around a 140gr range, I like Remington, Winchester, or Hornady, and then pick out one of the mid to slower burn powders. Do a bit of experimenting and have fun. One thing however, "I DO NOT" recommend seating the bullets out and into the lands. This might work and it might not. The thing is your already have and should be using the false shoulder on the neck, which should be sufficient, shoving the bullets into the lands will raise pressures and in some cases not end well. I only mention this as I have had a couple of cases let go on me while doing that. With the false shoulder, I haven't lost any. I also found that after 4 loads annealing just the middle of shoulder and out on the neck works out fine with mine. Of course this also depends on your sizing dies and your chamber as well.

I form cases for a .223 AI, 30-30 AI, the 25-06 AI, and my 7x30 Waters, along with another over bore wildcat based off the RUM case. I use this same procedure for all of these and only once in a blue moon does a case not form properly the first time out. I tried the COW and toilet paper thing once and decided I liked shooting more than cleaning. Now I just load up a box of 50 when I need to and go get some quality trigger time, or head out looking for critters.

Hope that helps.
 
Because of the cost of bullets, I bought a Lee die for 7mm to form brass for my 7-30Waters. Mold cost less than 100 "blem" bullets...
I was stunned that the cast bullets over 10gr of Unique would shoot near 1-hole from my 21" bbl Contender @25yds and clocked 1,300fps w/o gas-check. No sizing, no gc, just tumble lubed and loaded...

After working with the gun for a couple of years and shooting a couple of deer with it I got "bored" with it.
Now, it's sighted in for 50yds with the 130gr RNGC's over 10gr of Unique.
My favorite "tin can" plinker, for sure !!!

The brass came out "perfect" after fire-forming as long as it was OFB. "Aged" .30/30 would split at neck/shoulder junction.

I'd suggest a "boolit" mold to use for fire-forming the brass.
 
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