629 smith stiff cylinder catch

[ndh87]

I have a 5 inch 629. the gun shoots great but the cylinder release is overly tough, i have a 442 that is very smooth and doesnt require much pressure on the release latch at all. The 629 takes a good deal of force, feels like something is binding.

After some poking and prodding of all the related parts i noticed the the detent in the middle of the cylinder is where the stiffness seems to be coming from. What is really confusing is that it is not consistent, sometimes it takes more pressure than others.

Anyone have any ideas how to fix this? I've tried oiling it and that doesnt seem to help.

 

[Sam1911]

First thing to check is the ejector rod. Make sure it's screwed in tight. My 4" loosened up that way once and I didn't know what the problem was. Had to use the edge of the wooden bench to push the latch. Glad I figured it out before I broke anything.

-Sam

 

[ndh87]

The ejector rod seems to be tight, i cant twist it by hand.

 

[Oro]

Next step is to check that the locking bolt is not binding. In older guns (I don't know how old your 629 is, you didn't mention the dash number), it can get dry and bind a little, too. Also, check the latch screw is tight. If it is loose, you can waste effort as the latch itself binds against the cylinder bolt.

Work the locking bolt with the tip of a ball-point pen or something that fits in the shroud. It should move freely. If if sticks or binds, hit it with some Kroil, PB, or similar penetrant (NOT WD-40, though), let it sit a while barrel-down, then lubricate.

There can be binding going on internally, but that's less likely, so let's check this next.

 

[Jim K]

First, make sure the latch is not binding when the cylinder is swung out.

Then, with the cylinder swung out, spin it and watch the ejector rod to see if it "wobbles", a sign that it has been bent.

If that is not a problem, then use a good penetrant/lubricant (I like G96 Gun Treatment) spraying it on and into the rod and ratchet.

If none of that works, check back.

Jim

 

[ndh87]

Ejector rod stays straight and doesnt wobble when the cylinder is spun. This revolver is pretty new, i've only had it a few months its a -6.
Im still a bit inexperienced with revolvers (been shooting a 1911) so i dont quite know all the terminology yet.
Once the release is pressed in the cylinder swings free normally. The latch can be moved easily once the cylinder is swung out. and the detent at the front of the ejector rod isnt sticking.

The little nub at in the middle of the cylinder is still the only stiff part(someone please tell me the name for that part, Im starting to feel kinda stupid calling it "that little nub part")

 

[ndh87]

Also, I've never spun the cylinder and snapped it shut, or run hot loads through it. in total i have maybe 150-200 rounds through it so far.

I've sprayed the whole ejector rod assembly with rem oil and it hasnt seemed to help any

 

[sargenv]

Um, could be that it's just not worn in yet? 200 rounds is barely shot and practically new. I'd run a thousand rounds through it and then see if it is still doing that. Nothing smooths out a gun like firing it.

 

[Canuck-IL]

The 'little nub in the middle' of the cylinder when it's swung out is probably the end of the ejector rod. Lube can dry out in there and make it a real bear to depress the latch. Before going to a complete disassembly, hold the gun muzzle down and dirbble a few drops of Kroil or a similar good penetrant on the nub and then use a pen shaft or equivalent to work it in and out a few times ... repeat. Let it set a while and see if that doesn't free it up.

Once it depresses smoothly, add a few drops of thin lube.
/Bryan

 

[ndh87]

hold the gun muzzle down and dirbble a few drops of Kroil or a similar good penetrant on the nub and then use a pen shaft or equivalent to work it in and out a few times ... repeat

Tried that. It feels more like theres a bur than just in need of oil. Also, it wasnt this stiff when i first got it.


Just noticed, if i hold the cylinder latch forward while closing the cylinder it doesnt bind when i try to open it. If i dont hold the latch forward it takes alot of pressure to get it open.

 

[Old Fuff]

Well the most obvious causes have been looked at and don't seem to be the cause, so try this:

With the cylinder closed and latched, pull the cylinder backwards as far as you can and hold it while you push the thumbpiece forward to unlatch the cylinder. If it is easier, do this several times after rotating the cylinder to different chambers. If the cylinder remains easy to unlatch but is hard when you don't hold the cylinder backwards you likely have a condition called "excessive end shake," and we'll go into that after you conduct the above experiment.

 

[HammerBite]

Just noticed, if i hold the cylinder latch forward while closing the cylinder it doesnt bind when i try to open it. If i dont hold the latch forward it takes alot of pressure to get it open.

That suggests to me that there might be some debris inside the cylinder assembly. When you hold the latch forward, close the cylinder and let the latch go back relatively slowly you have no problem. When you let the latch snap back while closing the cylinder, the center rod in the cylinder also snaps back and gets wedged on something.

Maybe.

 

[glockman19]

most likely a small burr that will wear itself out over time.

I'd just shoot it and if after some time and a few hundred rounds if it still is bothering you either break it down yourself or take it to a gunsmith. You should be able to dremmel any burr without damaging the firearm.

 

[Jim K]

First, S&W beefed up the center pin spring in the Model 29 because recoil was causing the cylinder to unlatch, so what you are experiencing may be somewhat normal. See if you can locate another Model 29, preferably a new one, and compare.

The only burrs I can think of in those places definitely should NOT be dealt with using a Dremel tool. I like Dremels and am pretty good with one, but no way would I try to work on an S&W frame or cylinder with one.

There is another possibility and that is that recoil of the cylinder has caused the hole where the center pin (that little nub) protrudes to peen over. If that should be the case, repair will involve disassembling the cylinder and very carefully using a small round file (not Dremel tool) to remove any burrs.

Jim

 

[earlthegoat2]

make sure your turning your ejector rod the right way. It has left hand threads so to tighten and thus ease the opening of the latch you must turn it counterclockwise. I know that for the afficianados out there it is a no brainer.

 

[earplug]

Take it apart

Take the cylinder out and using a hard padded vice or the correct tool, unscrew the ejector rod, its reverse threaded. Best to put a couple of fired cases in the charge holes to take the pressure off the ejector.
My guess is you have the bolt spring binding on something, one of the closed ends on the spring is bent or? Assemble the parts without the spring and you should be able to feel what the problem is.
Could be just a bit of hard grit or metal inside the part of the ejector that the rod moves in.

 

[ndh87]

Ended up taking it to the local gunstore after work today. The guy there broke it down and figured out that it was the latch pin inside the ejector rod assembly. The pin was slightly burred at the end. He filed the burred edge down and now its back to normal. thanks for the help.