S&W 617 Cylinder Release

[gdesloge]

When attempting to release the cylinder on a 617, and, having the release/latch as far forward as possible, the cylinder seems to be difficult to release. It will release, but it takes a bit more pressure to do so and certainly more than other revolvers require.

Is there a simple fix, or does it require a trip to S&W? It is approx. 1 1/2 years old and is a great shooter. Maybe 600 rounds through it so far.

Thank you in advance -

gd

 

[Old Fuff]

Check and see if the extractor rod is screwed all of the way in, and remember it has a left-hand (backwards) thread. This is not the only solution, but it is the most common one.

 

[gdesloge]

Thank you - I will check that.

Best,

gd

 

[gdesloge]

Old Fuff -

The ejector rod was indeed a bit loose - about 1/3 of a turn to tighten it by hand.

The cylinder still seems a bit difficult to release, but it is better.

Thank you,

gd

 

[MrBorland]

Did it recently start getting hard, or has it been so since new? And have you noticed if the trigger pull has become worse as well?

It could simply need a good cleaning, especially if it hasn't gotten one in 600 rounds. Specifically around the fronts of the cylinder and forcing cone. Could be crud building up.

Is it tough to open only when there are cases in the cylinder? Might need a cleaning at the back end of the cylinder as well.

By any chance, was the original cylinder release latch replaced with an aftermarket SDM latch? The SDM latch tend to run a bit long in the nose, in which case it doesn't full release the cylinder before its long nose hits the recoil shield.

Couple other things to look at:

Is the ejector rod bent? Open and spin the cylinder and watch the ejector rod for signs of "wobble".

Also, there's an center pin within the ejector rod housing that gets pushed forward and flush with the end of the housing when the cylinder release latch is pushed. With the cylinder open, push on the back end of this center pin at the back of the cylinder and make sure it's actually getting pushed flushed with the end of the ejector rod housing. If not, the housing may not be getting pushed free of the retaining plunger under the barrel.

 

[GP100man]

My model 10 would`nt open & I had to pop the plate to get it open (ejector rod loktited 2yr prior & was tite)I found crud & what looked to be a peice of pocket lint behind the ejector slide , how`d it got there ??? through the window ??? cleaned it all up ,reassembled & al was as it should be !!

I did try flush & blow with compressed air it would not budge .

 

[gdesloge]

Thank you for the additional information.

The cylinder is clean, but the release has been a bit stiff all along. All parts are stock.

I will follow your advice and look into this.

Thank you -

gd

 

[Old Fuff]

Well you solved part of the problem. Now swing out the cylinder and push out the extractor. See if there is any fouling build-up on the underside of the extractor star, and the matching cutout in the rear face of the cylinder. Also as mentioned by others, check the front cylinder face and back of the barrel for lead build-up. .22 RF bullets are very soft, so lead build-up on the underside of the topstrap, cylinder face, and barrel can be a common issue.

There is also the possibility of cylinder end-shake, (back and forth movement of the cylinder, as opposed to rotational play) but that's unlikely, and something to check out if everything else fails.

 

[MrBorland]

the release has been a bit stiff all along

Old Fuff's recommendation to check the movement of the cylinder release latch with the cylinder open is spot on, of course. But the ejector rod plunger (under the barrel) could be stiff as well. While the cylinder's open, use the tip of a pen to push it and see that it depresses smoothly and relatively easily.

There is also the possibility of cylinder end-shake, (back and forth movement of the cylinder, as opposed to rotational play) but that's unlikely, and something to check out if everything else fails.

Maybe a bent crane, too? Also unlikely but a possibility if all else fails too.

 

[gdesloge]

Thank you, Old Fuff and Mr. Borland.

I will check the ejector rod plunger. To be honest, I assumed that this plunger was merely spring loaded. I did not know that it is connected to the cylinder release.

The ejector star and the cylinder faces (front and rear) are clean, and there is no lead build-up to restrict the cylinder's movement.

In the cylinder, there are 2 chambers that are just a tad tight, so ejection can be difficult. I have always cleaned the chambers thoroughly, but these 2 might be sized just a bit small. I had the intention to use just a bit of bore paste on them with a jag. Would this be adviseable?

Thank you again for all the help. I love this revolver.

gd

 

[MrBorland]

I will check the ejector rod plunger. To be honest, I assumed that this plunger was merely spring loaded. I did not know that it is connected to the cylinder release.

It is spring loaded, but it's ultimately what the cylinder release has to push back, via the inner center pin.

In the cylinder, there are 2 chambers that are just a tad tight, so ejection can be difficult. I have always cleaned the chambers thoroughly, but these 2 might be sized just a bit small. I had the intention to use just a bit of bore paste on them with a jag. Would this be adviseable?

Is the cylinder tough to open/close only when there are live rounds (or empty brass) in the cylinder? Your issue's then likely due to the cases not completely seating. Could be tight chambers - making them extra sensitive to dirt. Bore paste might help get some of the tougher dirt out of the cylinder, but I seriously doubt it'd ream the cylinder, if that's what it needs.

Next time you're at the range, load the gun, and while pointing it safely downrange, pull the hammer back just a bit with your right thumb (assuming you shoot right-handed) and spin the cylinder counterclockwise with your left thumb. If the rounds aren't fully seated, this "checkspin" will seat them. Then check to see if the cylinder is easier to open & close (btw, is it also hard to close?). If the checkspin helped seat the rounds, you'll probably notice an improvement in the trigger pull as well, as the seated rounds are no longer hitting the recoil shield as they rotate into position.