638 vs 642

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I own a Smith 638 because:

1. I like the option of being able to cock the hammer

2. The "rounded" rear of the gun is totally snagproof

I had a 642 but sold it in favor of the 638 for the above reasons.

I see that the 642 is a solid winner in J frames and I am wondering why it is so much more popular than the 638.
 
Speaking for myself, I have no need for the single action capability, so don't miss it on my 642.

I pocket carry my snubby, and the 642's completely enclosed hammer collects a LOT less lint than does my old, blued-steel M49 (Bodyguard).

Of course, the old 49, with ivory stocks and Tyler T-Grip adapter, is just plain "classic cool."
 
I think part of it is looks, the centennial design just looks "cleaner", with better lines. There are more 642's also, so people are more likely to find them when they go to a gunshop.

People often say that the bodyguards collect lint/dust in the hammer channel, but I can't find one source where someone claims their bodyguard didn't fire because there was a little bit of lint in there.

I like the Bodyguard set up better because its just as snag proof as a centennial and still gives the option of cocking the hammer. Not that the 642/442 is a bad design, I just feel the bodyguard provides a single-action advantage, and no down-side.
 
Aesthetics are going to factor heavily.
Everything after that is relatively trivial post-decision justifications, IMHO.
For me, I picked it because I just wanted one less nook to clean and because I can put my thumb up top... the latter isn't as comfortable with the humpbacks.
 
Gunsmith Grant Cunningham has an interesting take on this:

I'm not qualified to talk about tactics, but there is one salient point that is missed in the crossfire: the Centennial models simply have better actions!

The enclosed hammer Centennial models have slightly different sear geometry than do the exposed hammer models, which gives them a pull that is more even - more linear - than the models with hammer spurs. For the savvy shooter it's a noticeable difference, making the Centennial a bit easier to shoot well.

The Centennials also have one less part than the other models: since they have no exposed hammer, they don't have (nor do they need) the hammer-block safety common to all other "J" frames. That part, which is quite long and rides in a close-fitting slot machined into the sideplate, is difficult to make perfectly smooth. Even in the best-case scenario, it will always add just a bit of friction to the action. Not having the part to begin with gives the Centennial a "leg up" in action feel.​
 
Humpy

You mean ole humpy. I wouldn't take one of those to a proverbial dog fight.
But then again, maybe I should. The action would stop and the fighters would belly laugh themelves to a coma. Seriously those things just look ungainly and fugly.

The extra part and linear pull is interesting, I did not know that. At least now I know a technical reason not to have one in addition to the aesthetics.

There is no way I would use that in a SA mode in a gun fight.

I'll stick with my 642 thanks.
 
Weill, this is an interesting thread. Did not know about the "smoother action". The only drawback I see is "humpback lint", which is probably not a big deal. I actually think they are cool (in there own way) and wouldn't mind having one someday for a companion to my 642.
 
I found this old post I did a good while back. It might be of some interest.

Hello. It appears to me that the Model 642 is probably the most popular snub that Smith & Wesson has produced in recent years. I remember that before this version of their J-frame .38 Special was reborn, I routinely carried a Model 37 with the hammer spur removed as a back up gun when in police service. When these covered hammer snubs hit the market I purchased a Model 042 and eventually a few more...including a Model 638.

In the past on some other sites I've seen folks vigorously proclaiming the virtues of one over the other and in some cases, sadly, the discussion degenerated into a virtual shouting match...which is both rude and in my view, stupid.

Let's just take a brief unemotional look at these revolvers and see if any conclusions can be drawn.

SWM638and642rock1.jpg
Both the 642 and 638 are intended to be snag free and for pocket or concealed carry. Both of these have aluminum alloy frames with the barrel and cylinder of stainless steel. Some parts are of hardchromed steel such as the triggers. Both are the same size and have round butt grip profiles. Obviously the primary difference is that the "hammerless" 642 does not allow single-action shooting while the 638 does offer that option.

SWM638and642rear1.jpg
This photograph better shows the differences between the internally hammered Model 642 vs. the shrouded Model 638. It's interesting to note that an "add on" part to shroud the hammer against snagging was once made for the Colt snubs that competed against the Model 638, so it would appear that concerns over hammer spurs snagging on clothing has been both widespread and long term.

One gun writer wrote that he has never been able to get any version of the shrouded J-frame snub to shoot as tightly as the others. Perhaps, but that has not proven true in my own experiences with both. I cannot shoot one better than the other in double-action. It seems to me that smoothness of the individual revolver's double-action might well be the determining factor should a fellow see much difference in the performance of two similar snubs from the same maker.

SWM638cockedrear1.jpg
With the Model 638 the hammer can be cocked for a light, single-action shot if desired. To some the idea of being able to make a more precise shot, perhaps at distance, is an option that they like having. Others suggest that such is not at all likely and that the single-action option leaves one open to suggestions during a civil suit that they cocked the revolver and then unintentionally and negligently shot the poor scum that was trying rape, rob, murder, (take your pick) them. I suggest that the buyer/owner/shooter make his decision on which to get based on his own perceptions of what is important.

SWModel638hammerrear1.jpg
Lowering the hammer on the Model 638 is done with less thumb contact on the exposed portion of the hammer spur. I have never had a problem with it and I do not think that it invokes any major difficulties over lowering a non-shrouded hammer, but I don't think that it is quite as "sure" on the Model 638.

Some years ago I read that if carrying the Model 38 or any version of the shrouded snub to be sure and not have any loose change in your pocket or a dime could become wedged between the hammer spur and the frame and tie up the gun. Unless S&W has altered some dimensions on the hammer or frame, I found this to be impossible to do. A dime simply will not fit between the side of this revolver's hammer and frame. I guess a paperclip or an object of the right size might could do this, but a pocket holster goes a long way in preventing such. I also carry only the holstered revolver in my pocket and I'll bet most other folks using this method of carry do the same. I have found
the area behind the hammer on the 638 to be a "lint & crud magnet." Pocket carry is simply dirtier than most expect and after toting the Model 638 for ten days as I normally do my well-worn Model 642, I was surprised at the amount of crud that it had picked up. At the same time, the gun worked fine and the trigger pull was not affected.

For me, the Model 642 is the favorite.

The primary reason is the lack of another opening for grit and lint to build up. That is my "primary reason", but it is not much of one if we simply clean and maintain our personal carry guns at least once every week or so. Being an old revolver guy for years, I shoot primarily double-action with most six and five-guns and do not find the single-action capability on a revolver of this size to be that much of an advantage. (I definitely do prefer having a single-action option on K, L, and N-frames.)

In the end I simply cannot find much difference between these revolvers in practical terms. One may have a bit of an advantage in some aspects while the other offers what
might be a plus for some people.

"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder" and is subjective, but I find the 642 more pleasing to the eye. Some will agree. Some will not and others won't care one way or the other, but it is my opinion that either of these little guns will serve about as well as the other and that the potential buyer/user should go with the one he/she prefers.

Were I in the market for a first J-frame snub, and had these two choices, I'd probably go for the one having the best price assuming similar action smoothness.

Best.
 
Like many other things it comes down to personal preference, with neither being truly superior to the other.

I chose a 638 over a 642, but that was just my personal preference. I like the idea of the ability to make a SA shot if needed, even though i doubt I'll ever need to do so. Neither the 638 or the 642 is what I'd call aesthetically pretty. They both serve the same niche, and either fills that niche admirably.
 
I have a 638 for all the same reasons the OP mentioned, although I did not have to sell a 642 to get it. My daughter recently bought her first revolver and decided on a 638 because she liked the option of single action over DAO. Both guns were the same price at the gun store.

While we were at that store, I could not tell any difference in the trigger pull between the 638 or the 632 in DA. Bullets coming out of one are going to be just as lethal as those coming out of the other. I have not found lint to be a problem at all, but a little compressed air takes care of it very quickly.
 
I've been carrying my 638 for over 8 months now and I have had no problems at all with lint collecting in the hammer area. I check it often but have NOT needed to blow it out with compressed air.

IMO, both the 642 and 638 are fine revolvers and the only reason to buy one over the other is looks. Which ever one you like the looks of better, buy it...
 
I prefer the 642 because it seemed to me kind of risky trying to decock a bodyguard type revolver. I always put my finger between the hammer and the firing pin (on the frame mounted models) or in front of the firing pin (on the hammer mounted models) as I start to decock the revolver. You can't do this with the shroud. I'm not saying it is necessary to use the weak hand finger to block the hammer only that I am more comfortable doing it this way.
 
Thank you all for the various input. I learned a lot.

Thank you, Stephen, for the great photos and the in depth commentary. Where did you get those stocks?
 
Hello. Thanks very much. The stocks on the Model 638 were purchased at a gunshow. There is no maker's name on them, but I think that they are from Altamont.

Best.
 
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