92FS, a "wet" pistol?

[Nordeste]

Hi all:

I remember that when we got them issued, my agency's gunsmiths told us to keep these pistols clean (as it is mandatory) but as well, make sure it was properly oiled. Particularly, they said make sure it's clean, particularly at the extractor area, and well oiled, particularly around the locking block area. They suggested a commercially available gun oil would do, motor oil if we didn't want to expend on gun oil, but advised against products like WD-40 (I know this is controversial, but this is not about it ).

What do you guys think?. Can we consider the 92 a "wet" pistol such as the 1911s?.

 

[RevolvingGarbage]

Huh? 1911's must be run wet?

I guess nobody ever told my Colt, because it runs like a top, wet as a fish, dry as a bone, or otherwise.

 

[Steve in PA]

My 92FS is lubed no more than any other pistol I own.

 

[holdencm9]

I just put about one drop on each slide rail and one drop on the locking block, cycle it a few times, wipe off any excess. I don't think that qualifies as "wet." The slide moves like its on ball bearings.

 

[Shawn Dodson]

I carried a 96FS on patrol.

I used a light grease (RIG Stainless Steel lube) on the slide rails and locking block. I never experienced any problems despite it being exposed to the elements here in the northwest.

When I was with the local National Guard unit they attempted to perfrom pistol quals with M9's that didn't have a drop of lube on them. They were bone dry and didn't function well at all. One of guys ran to a nearby Quickie Mart, bought a small can of 3 in 1 oil, we lubed the pistols and finished the quals without further incident.

 

[Nushif]

I run my Beretta dry, or with one drop on each rail, that I let gravity slide down. Never a problem, before, and I've shot in the snow, the mud and the rain.
Same with my 1911, tbh.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

I remember that when we got them issued, my agency's gunsmiths told us to keep these pistols clean (as it is mandatory) but as well, make sure it was properly oiled. Particularly, they said make sure it's clean, particularly at the extractor area, and well oiled, particularly around the locking block area. They suggested a commercially available gun oil would do, motor oil if we didn't want to expend on gun oil, but advised against products like WD-40

As opposed to running it dirty and dry? That sounds like common sense to me. Similarly, on the other extreme, common sense means not having oil or grease oozing from every crack, as if you had just greased the front end of your car.

 

[Nushif]

Similarly, on the other extreme, common sense means not having oil or grease oozing from every crack, as if you had just greased the front end of your car.

My friend does that ... it drives me up a wall.

 

[rellascout]

I consider them sort of in between guns when it comes to lube. Not as dry as a Glock but not as wet as a Sig.

Sigs are the only real wet gun I own.

 

[NG VI]

How wet do Sigs like to be?

 

[Walt Sherrill]

I know this topic isn't about WD 40, but...

WD40 is a mineral oil, and has the ability to harden over time. It can create a shellac-like surface if not regularly cleared and reapplied. Its good for a lot of things, but lubrication isn't it's strength.

 

[Paris]

No problems with my 92FS Type-M with "standard" amounts of oil. I've never attempted to "run it dirty" but I don't do anything extra for it maintenance wise. Very good gun.

 

[9teenEleven]

Sigs need to be wet for the anodizing to be maintained. That's the first thing you check on a used sig. If the rails are shiny it's getting there. If you see silver don't buy it.

 

[NOLAEMT]

My father and I went to gunsite in october for their week long 250 pistol class. He cleaned and lubed his 92fs before he packed for his trip, and when he got home. He didnt have any malfunctions in about 1100 rounds fired for the week.

 

[Devonai]

The only weapon I run remotely wet would be the M1 rifle, and that's only because the wheel bearing grease I apply to the bolt lugs, receiver raceway, and op rod cam is so viscous.

Everything else gets a single drop of oil on a Q-Tip, and applied to critical areas. Hell, in the Army we weren't even allowed to turn in a weapon with too much lube. I've never had a problem with sparsely lubing the M9/92FS.

 

[rellascout]

How wet do Sigs like to be?

http://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/

Read this link. Sig should be lubed like this IMHO

 

[Teal'c]

My police trade-in 92fs locking block was "wet" when I got it. She runs lightly oiled with no problems.

 

[Nordeste]

Sorry for the comment on the 1911s if it turns out that I'm wrong. I thought I had read somewhere that they needed some more lubrication than other handguns. I have little experience with them and haven't ever owned one (though I wouldn't mind to, quite frankly ).

As for the 92, I just spoke for what I had been told by my gunsmith and was just seeking opinions .

 

[BossHogg]

Not really wet, but I do put a drop of oil on the rails on all my metal guns when heading to to range. Works for me, I don't like to run metal guns without some lube. I wouldn't try to oil everyday for CCW work, but when I know I'm going to give the gun a workout it helps.

 

[Oceanbob]

Don't know about the 92fs, but my Glock 29 loves to run wet.

A recent summer river trip she was underwater for 8 hours at a time for several days. Threw her in my day pack on the way home. Didn't clean or dry her. Did a mag dump at the range later that week. Same ammo and magazine. She ran 100%.

I eventually cleaned her and did my usual Frog Lube Ritual. A drop on each of the 4 rails; rack the slide 6 or 8 times and put her back in the holster.

 

[Chindo18Z]

I don't believe in running any gun dry and pretty much lightly lube all semi-auto handguns in about the same manner. I don't see my Glocks as having any particular cache when it comes to running dry vs. any other duty semi-auto. To me, they all run about the same...military 1911, SIG, CZ, Beretta, Glock, et al.

I ran my issue M9 through about 850 rounds worth of drills one day with only the lightest touch of lube (a drop or two on the barrel hood, locking block, rails, and muzzle) at the start of the day. Just wanted to see how far it would go with no added lube.

The weapon's cycle of operation started getting sluggish due to the buildup of powder crud at around the 850 round mark. At that point I took the slide off, quickly wiped it down with a rag, and added a few more drops of oil. Good for several hundred more rounds.

 

[Tomcat47]

Physics 101 - Metal to metal = Point of Lubrication of some sort!

I am a fan of Remington Dri - Lube with Teflon

Use it all the time after cleaning my firearms and reassembly, especially my auto-loaders no matter who made it!

None of my guns run "wet"... Colt, Taurus, Beretta, S&W, etc. And they never run with out proper lubrication.

No problems from none of them at the range. The Dri lube does not collect powder residue to me such as a wet lube does.

 

[The-Reaver]

Yeah, my PT92 runs any way I give it to her.

 

[918v]

If you run your gun dry, it will shoot loose and rattle like a 100 year old 1911 that survived all of our major conflicts. If you run it wet it will stay nice and snug. I run all my guns wet. I carry them minimally oiled, but I lube them up prior to shooting.

 

[ChCx2744]

Strip it down and inspect it for any parts that have "wear marks." I put a drop in each slide groove and I wet a q-tip with oil and dab any wear mark surfaces. I also wipe the barrel down with oil. Beretta 92s are the bomb.