9MM brass headstamps

[myFRAGisFUBAR]

SO I got around to loading cast lead rounds in 9mm today and it seems like some brass is giving me waaaaaaaay more of a headache than others. The head stamps CBC, R*P, and WIN seem to be too warped to use after seating the round. They wont pass the plunk test or my case gauge. Is there something about this brass that mast it harder to load cast rounds? It seems that 75% of bullets loaded in this brass will not work. Other cases such as Blazer and FC work perfectly for me.

Has anyone else had this problem? The cases seem to work much better with plated/fmj rounds, but they just hate lead it seems like.

 

[LiveLife]

I reload using several commercial brand lead 9mm bullets in mixed headstamp range brass including Winchester (WIN)/Remington (RP)/Magtech (CBC) and do not have issues you are having (they all pass the barrel drop test in tighter KKM/Lone Wolf chambers with a "plonk").

I would check to make sure you are not crushing the case while seating the bullet to make them not pass the barrel drop test. Perhaps not enough case mouth flaring? BTW, I am using Lee dies and use just enough flare to set the bullet.

 

[Lj1941]

I have used all of the headstamps you.mentioned with no problems. Perhaps you might try a little more flare in your case prep.

 

[myFRAGisFUBAR]

Is it possible to over flare? I have tried adding more to the point that the flaring die is almost all the way screwed in. I didn't do this all at once, but gradually trying to make the cases work. I am loading with lee products as well.

 

[rcmodel]

Not enough bell.

Or your seating stem does not match the bullet nose shape you are using and they are seating crooked.

Brand of brass should not matter.

BTW: If you are using the #19 shell holder that came with a Lee die set?
Throw it away and buy a Lee #6 that actually fits 9mm.

Or better yet, an RCBS #1 that really fits properly.

The #19 is a 'one-size-fits-none' and is actually for the .40 S&W.

A loose shell holder can cause crooked seating too.

rc

 

[Lj1941]

I am also using Lee dies/fcd. Try like BDS suggested,just enough flare to easily seat the bullet.Are you using the factory crimp die? Mine look and function just like factory loads.

 

[LiveLife]

Well, I have been using #19 shell plate/holder for almost 20 years loading 9mm and 40S&W. It's been working OK for me ...

But as rcmodel posted, I would pull apart the bullet seating/taper crimp die and make sure the insides (especially the bullet seating stem) are clean to prevent tilted/crooked seated bullets.

Is it possible to over flare? I have tried adding more to the point that the flaring die is almost all the way screwed in. I didn't do this all at once, but gradually trying to make the cases work. I am loading with lee products as well.

My resized case mouths measure around .372" and after they are flared, case mouth measure around .382".

 

[myFRAGisFUBAR]

Case mouth is .371 when sized and .384 when flared. I am using the lee .356-120-tc mold if this matters.

 

[LiveLife]

What are the bullet diameter?

 

[myFRAGisFUBAR]

Bullets are sized to .357.

 

[rcmodel]

Well, that might be your problem.

You are loading 9mm which normally takes .355" Jacketed or .356" lead bullets.

rc

 

[LiveLife]

I have the same issue.

Depending on the thickness of the case wall, .357" sized lead bullets won't fully chamber in my KKM/Lone Wolf barrels.

All .356" sized bullet loads will fully chamber regardless of the case wall thickness.

 

[myFRAGisFUBAR]

I had always heard that lead needed to be slightly larger. I used .356 and had some lead in the barrel and was key holing the paper, so I went a tad bigger. I guess I will try a .356 sizer. I have since went to powdercoating bullets last time I tried the .356. Maybe PC will make a difference.

 

[LiveLife]

The old axiom of "bullet to barrel fit is king" is still applicable unless you have tighter chambered barrels. Then bullet sizing is limited by the chamber dimensions, especially with thicker walled cases.

If you experience leading/keyholing issues with bullets that will fit the chamber, you may have to enlarge the chamber to accommodate larger sized bullets or use softer alloy/high enough powder charge to properly expand the bullet base to reduce/eliminate leading/keyholing.

Since you are casting your own bullets, if you are using wheel weights, lead alloy should be soft enough to work even sized at .356" to not lead the barrel.

What does your barrel slug out at? What powder/charge are you using?

 

[myFRAGisFUBAR]

I didnt slug the barrel. I tried .356 that I bought locally. I did measure before shooting to confirm they were .356.

Now that I cast my own, I am using lead with a hardness of 10-12. The powder used is longshot with 5.2-5.3 grains behind the bullet.

 

[LiveLife]

Commercial cast bullets you tried may have been too hard at .356" and gave you leading/keyholing issues.

Since your lead alloy is much softer, you may be OK using .356" sized bullets and high enough powder charge to expand the bullet base to seal the high pressure gas.

Give it a try and see if you get leading/keyholing.