9mm luger crimp?

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primlantah

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do you taper crimp 9mm luger? I have been taper crimping my 45 auto loads... figured thats what your soposed to do. reloading store near my house doesnt sell any taper crimp dies and told me you dont crimp 9 luger. is this information correct? if it is, should i stop taper crimping my 45 auto?
 
I use a light taper crimp on all my semi-auto pistol rounds. Use just enough crimp to remove the case mouth belling, and if your neck tension is correct, you won't have a problem.

It's not unusual for a small store to not carry individual dies, since keeping a large inventory that doesn't move hurts the bottom line. They stock what sells fast, in most cases, and if you owned the store, you'd try to do the same thing.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
so a crimp on a cartridge like this is only for reliable feeding and not so much for the function of the cartridge?
 
would the 45 auto seating die also be providing a crimp? what is the point of getting a separate crimp die if the seating die does this for you?
 
The crimp performs two functions. The first is to remove the belling that you apply to the case to facilitate seating the bullet. If the belling isn't removed, then you will definitely have feeding problems in most pistols, since there will be a small ledge to catch on the chamber mouth, etc.

The second function is to provide an additional amount of tension, if needed. Some pistols are pretty violent in the action of stripping the round from a magazine and jamming it into the chamber. A crimp will help to prevent bullet setback, but neck tension is really more important for doing this in most calibers. There are exceptions, where the case has a very short neck. The 357 Sig and .400 Cor-Bon come to mind in this area. On the other hand, an excessive crimp can defeat neck tension and actually loosen it. You have to arrive at a happy medium, which means just removing the bell.

Since your 9mm headspaces on the case mouth, you don't want the crimp to be excessive, just enough to smooth out that portion of the case. As zxcvbob points out, most 9mm seating dies have a taper crimp built into them. Take out the seating stem and clean the die and look inside. You should be able to see the step in the wall of the die that performs the taper crimp. Some companies stamp "Taper Crimp" on the die, and some will simply stamp "TC" on the die. It's usually near the stamp identifying the caliber of the die and what it's purpose is. If your die is a TC die, then you just have to screw the die further into the press and then adjust the seating stem for the proper length of the loaded round.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
thanks for the explanation everyone. getting ready to start loadin 9. :)

my 45 auto seating die doesnt have tc stamped in it but the 9mm does.
 
You were typing the same time I was. I personally like a separate crimping die, since I like to seat the bullet and then crimp in a separate operation. I load a lot of lead bullets and since the crimp is being applied at the same time the bullet is being seated, there is a very small amount of movement of the bullet while that crimp is being applied. I choose to avoid that movement during the crimping process, since it will shave a small amount of lead and deposit it in front of the crimp.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Whether it says TC on it or not:
SO far, I have not seen a .45 ACP seating die that would not do a proper taper crimp if adjusted correctly.
That's what they are made for.

Perhaps there are some that won't, but I have never seen one in 46 years of reloading the .45 ACP.

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rcmodel
 
Most of mine say " Redding" & "Taper Cr" or "T Cr"on them. :D

I agree with rcmodel. I have not seen a .45 ACP seater that would not taper crimp.

I just like to do it in a separate step.
 
Well, you got me curious enough to go look.

My newer RCBS .40 S&W dies say "Seater - Taper Crimp" and they do.
My older RCBS .45 ACP dies don't say anything except "seater" but they taper crimp.
My even older Pacific 9mm dies say "seater #3 B" and they taper crimp.
My almost ancient Herters .45 ACP dies say "45 ACP seater, and they taper crimp.

Guess it depends on age and manufacture whether it spells it out on the die or not.

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rcmodel
 
You guys are sure easy to get sidetracked........... Now I'll just see if I can lure you into paying for the 14,000 bullets I ordered from Berry's at the SHOT Show..........

Just kidding,
Fred
 
next question regarding crimp...

can you over crimp? if so, how would you tell and what would be the consequences of doing so?
 
Over crimp? Oh yes. You can...As stated above by my highly respected and distinguished colleagues...(That ought to make some points :D) Just remove the bell and maybe just a very light crimp if you wish. If you over crimp three things will happen. One, you will probably loose the neck tension and have a loose bullet...Two, you may have a case that will travel too far into the chamber (most autos head space on the case mouth) and the firing pin will not reach it to set it off. And three, you will deform the bullet whether it be jacketed or lead...
 
Yes, you can overcrimp. You can measure the case mouth with a caliper and see how much smaller it is than the case immediately behind the crimp. You can also visually check it by holding the case up against the light and see if you can see the crimp. You can also run your finger over it and see if it feels the same as the case wall, but this takes some experience to do correctly. If you're crimping just enough to remove the case bell, then you're doing it correctly.

The consequences of overcrimping are that since the round we're talking about headspaces on the case mouth, it may allow the case to slip too far into the chamber and out of reach of the firing pin, but this is rare, since most extractors hold the case against the breechface, and the round will fire. With a roll crimp, it's possible to actually bend the brass to the point that it pulls away from the bullet and leaves the bullet loose in the neck, but since we're talking about a taper crimp, it's not such a problem.

If you don't have the Lyman's 48th Edition Reloading Handbook, you may want to pick one up. There is a lot of information in it that will help you.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
The Bushmaster is a faster typer than I am, but we pretty much covered the same territory. Great Minds think alike...........

Fred
 
I've switched over to using the Lee FCD in the last station. Very easy to get the crimp I want with it.
 
I too use the LEE Factory Crimp Die on my 9mm. The LEE die, unlike merely a seating/crimp die, performs a final sizing operation. There is a carbide ring in the mouth of the FCD die that makes sure that the finished round is uniform and will chamber without trouble. The Lee FCD is also adjustable as to the amount of crimp, separate from the full length finish sizing. From just enough crimp to take out the belling of the case to enough to make a groove in the bullet.

I also use the LEE FCD on my .223 rounds. That die puts a finish crimp on the round, into the cannelure, using a collet that also makes sure that the bullet is straight in the case. A good finish step for rounds that are eaten like peanuts in my autoloader.
 
As far as seater with out crimp the only one that I know of that does not crimp is the Redding pro and pro competition series, But the sets come with a taper crimp die.
 
I just set up a new 550 Dillon. I got the video that comes with it. They explained that the books show the max outside diameter of the case and to crimp to that measurement. For the 9 mm, the max is .380. So that is where I set the die. On my first rounds, I had no problems. It gave me a definite measurement to work with.
 
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