A-Bolt triggers?
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For the record I wouldn't recommend grinding down the trigger pull adjusting screw, especially with the stock spring as it wont fit through the bore and the screw already bottoms out even or below the bore. There are much better ways of working with this trigger.
Something that does a lot for the A-bolt II trigger is putting a washer (4.5mm outside diameter, 2.5mm inside diameter) between the trigger and spring and replacing the spring with something that fits better (the factory spring is too long and too wide).
But cutting down the factory spring leaves a one prong seat that is vastly inferior to the nicely finished springs from Timney/Wolff/Browning that leave a full circle of contact.
Personally I bought the Wolff 100pc. Miniature Coil Spring Pack that Midway carries for 2/3 the price of the 2 measly Timney springs. I added a washer between the trigger and spring and it helps fill the factory slop (milled face of the trigger where the spring seats) a lot without any binding on the adjustment screw (it really doesn't have all that much travel to begin with).
One thing to note though is that the sear bears about a pound or so of weight and your never going to get below that (nor should you) without changing the sear. But there are springs aplenty that get you where you need to be which is imo right around 1.5lbs.
The Wolff pack has lots of springs that will fit, of varying weights. About a pound and a half works out best in my rifle. Make sure if you go that route though that you choose the springs that don't bind at all and slide freely on the adj. screw shaft which means all those 2mm springs won't work on the 2mm shaft, use the 2.5mm ones with a washer or the larger ones without one (though for 17 cents or so I don't see why you wouldn't use a washer!)
Something that does a lot for the A-bolt II trigger is putting a washer (4.5mm outside diameter, 2.5mm inside diameter) between the trigger and spring and replacing the spring with something that fits better (the factory spring is too long and too wide).
But cutting down the factory spring leaves a one prong seat that is vastly inferior to the nicely finished springs from Timney/Wolff/Browning that leave a full circle of contact.Personally I bought the Wolff 100pc. Miniature Coil Spring Pack that Midway carries for 2/3 the price of the 2 measly Timney springs. I added a washer between the trigger and spring and it helps fill the factory slop (milled face of the trigger where the spring seats) a lot without any binding on the adjustment screw (it really doesn't have all that much travel to begin with).
One thing to note though is that the sear bears about a pound or so of weight and your never going to get below that (nor should you) without changing the sear. But there are springs aplenty that get you where you need to be which is imo right around 1.5lbs.
The Wolff pack has lots of springs that will fit, of varying weights. About a pound and a half works out best in my rifle. Make sure if you go that route though that you choose the springs that don't bind at all and slide freely on the adj. screw shaft which means all those 2mm springs won't work on the 2mm shaft, use the 2.5mm ones with a washer or the larger ones without one (though for 17 cents or so I don't see why you wouldn't use a washer!)
Nice pictures and first post raingull.
Why does anyone need anything below a 3# trigger on a bolt action hunting rifle? My Sako's break like glass and I pay little, if any, attention to the weight of the trigger. It is the break, not the pull weight that is the difference between a great trigger and a good trigger. If you ask me a 1.5# trigger on a bolt action hunting rifle is foolish if not outright dangerous. My opinion only, if you need a trigger that light to shoot your hunting rig well, you'd better go out and get some more trigger time, or better yet, get some proper instruction. I don't want you in my hunting party if you're running around with a trigger that light.
Edited to add: I'm not calling anyone specifically out, just stating what I think needs to be said.
Why does anyone need anything below a 3# trigger on a bolt action hunting rifle? My Sako's break like glass and I pay little, if any, attention to the weight of the trigger. It is the break, not the pull weight that is the difference between a great trigger and a good trigger. If you ask me a 1.5# trigger on a bolt action hunting rifle is foolish if not outright dangerous. My opinion only, if you need a trigger that light to shoot your hunting rig well, you'd better go out and get some more trigger time, or better yet, get some proper instruction. I don't want you in my hunting party if you're running around with a trigger that light.
Edited to add: I'm not calling anyone specifically out, just stating what I think needs to be said.
Need is a relative term.
Anything short of my best is never "good enough for hunting."
Back up your statement. Maybe you should just send it directly to rifle basix and timney and shilen et al. (heck shilen has a competition trigger that can't go heavier than 6oz!) Walk the line at the 1000yrd matches and start casting aspersions at the foolish and dangerous souls there using bolt action hunting rifles with crisp light triggers (much lighter than 1.5lbs I might add).They must have AD's all the time right? Scary place!
Not to shoot it well, to shoot it better. But then I'm one of those guys that thinks he owes his best to every animal he hunts.
Anything short of my best is never "good enough for hunting."
Raingull,
I just love it when this happens! You purposely narrow the circumstances (completely out of context btw) by bringing up a single instance where a light trigger would be a competitive advantage. If you're looking to start a fight, I'm not taking the bait.
I have no need to backup my opinion formed from many years of shooting, while never once needing to adjust a trigger so I can shoot a rifle accurately. I adapt to the tool.
Timney and the others are in business to sell a product and the more product they sell the more money they make. -Enough said.
Edited to add: Oh, I've never been to one, but am willing to bet when you walk the line of a 1000 yard match you're not likely to find many off the shelf Browning A-bolts with Timney triggers punching holes in paper.
I just love it when this happens! You purposely narrow the circumstances (completely out of context btw) by bringing up a single instance where a light trigger would be a competitive advantage. If you're looking to start a fight, I'm not taking the bait.
I have no need to backup my opinion formed from many years of shooting, while never once needing to adjust a trigger so I can shoot a rifle accurately. I adapt to the tool.
Timney and the others are in business to sell a product and the more product they sell the more money they make. -Enough said.
Edited to add: Oh, I've never been to one, but am willing to bet when you walk the line of a 1000 yard match you're not likely to find many off the shelf Browning A-bolts with Timney triggers punching holes in paper.
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And you accuse me of narrowing the debate to specific parameters! (straw man argument).
It was your assertion that pull weight is not important only how the trigger breaks. If that's true why do so many competition triggers crowd the lines at shooting competitions? They must all be very poor shots. Actually your assertion is that the light triggers don't actually help them shoot more accurately at all so long as there trigger breaks crisp and clean!
If you can't trust your gun handling, fine, adapt to the blunt instrument. As for me and a great many others, we'll make the most out of the opportunities that come our way by any viable/safe means.
For what it's worth a (standard practice) long range, 2oz. trigger does shed light on how horribly unsafe a 1.5lb trigger is/nt.
Safety is not defined by a number but by the conditions of the working mechanism and the shooters interactions with that mechanism. My post was fairly clear on those parameters.
Do you even own an A-bolt II? (by your posts I'm going with no)
And for what it's worth it was you who came picking a fight (re-read your post).
It was your assertion that pull weight is not important only how the trigger breaks. If that's true why do so many competition triggers crowd the lines at shooting competitions? They must all be very poor shots. Actually your assertion is that the light triggers don't actually help them shoot more accurately at all so long as there trigger breaks crisp and clean!
If you can't trust your gun handling, fine, adapt to the blunt instrument. As for me and a great many others, we'll make the most out of the opportunities that come our way by any viable/safe means.
For what it's worth a (standard practice) long range, 2oz. trigger does shed light on how horribly unsafe a 1.5lb trigger is/nt.
Safety is not defined by a number but by the conditions of the working mechanism and the shooters interactions with that mechanism. My post was fairly clear on those parameters.
Do you even own an A-bolt II? (by your posts I'm going with no)
And for what it's worth it was you who came picking a fight (re-read your post).
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castingdonkey
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Welcome to the site raingull. I agree with your post's and am thankful for your advise.
Some of us like myself that hunt with a light trigger don't hike with a chambered round. I know people who do and I watch how they carry their rifle and avoid the muzzle. Not to mention letting them know when they swing it my way. Seems the real issue would be with 700 triggers and shotty installation, on top of morons pointing guns at people.
Do not point a gun at something you do not wish to destroy.
Some of us like myself that hunt with a light trigger don't hike with a chambered round. I know people who do and I watch how they carry their rifle and avoid the muzzle. Not to mention letting them know when they swing it my way. Seems the real issue would be with 700 triggers and shotty installation, on top of morons pointing guns at people.
Do not point a gun at something you do not wish to destroy.
The reason I doubted that you even owned an A-bolt was that you responded with, "My Sako's break like glass and I pay little, if any, attention to the weight of the trigger." Why wouldn't you relate something about your A-bolt's trigger as that would have been far more relevant than your Sakos?
And then, "Edited to add: Oh, I've never been to one, but am willing to bet when you walk the line of a 1000 yard match you're not likely to find many off the shelf Browning A-bolts with Timney triggers punching holes in paper."
And while I think that it's obvious that A-bolts aren't crowding the lines at Wimbledon, I don't think that you're going to find many off-the-shelf rifles at all, nor off the shelf stiff triggers I might add.
The A-bolt trigger is a good trigger, and maybe fine with a stiff spring for many. I'm not one of those and find it a great trigger with a lighter spring. I posted information about making it better and you objected to that (so don't lighten yours then).
If you want to make a reasoned case against a 1.5lb trigger then go ahead. Your several posts in without even beginning to build a case...
And then, "Edited to add: Oh, I've never been to one, but am willing to bet when you walk the line of a 1000 yard match you're not likely to find many off the shelf Browning A-bolts with Timney triggers punching holes in paper."
And while I think that it's obvious that A-bolts aren't crowding the lines at Wimbledon, I don't think that you're going to find many off-the-shelf rifles at all, nor off the shelf stiff triggers I might add.
The A-bolt trigger is a good trigger, and maybe fine with a stiff spring for many. I'm not one of those and find it a great trigger with a lighter spring. I posted information about making it better and you objected to that (so don't lighten yours then).
If you want to make a reasoned case against a 1.5lb trigger then go ahead. Your several posts in without even beginning to build a case...
Hadn't seen this before, but a cheaper option that some might want to try over the Timney springs is the Rifle Basix spring:
They have a good install pdf for anybody that wants to see it: http://www.riflebasix.com/BRN_SPRinstrucsheet.pdf
Looks like you'll want to avoid this one or just back the adj. screw all the way out HK... It's just like the one I have in my A-bolt.
They have a good install pdf for anybody that wants to see it: http://www.riflebasix.com/BRN_SPRinstrucsheet.pdf
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