A couple questions for you...two decisions for me!

[telecaster1981]

Ok,

First question: I've got a lead on a Colt Commander for very reasonable money, but I'm still not sure if it's the steel frame or alloy frame. I'm a fan of all steel firearms and my concern is that, if indeed it is the alloy frame model, it won't hold up. Is there any reason for me to be concerned about this? I've read nothing but positive things about the Commander series but I still had to ask!

Second question:

I've got a Chinese Contract Inglis Hi-Power, made in 1944 that I bought a while back for a very good price. Reason being is that the importer scrubbed all the markings except for the serial numbers and refinished it. Since the price was so fair, I thought it would make a nice addition to my collection of Hi-Powers, collectable or not. Now, I'm growing weary of this gun in its current state. Problem is, it's EXTREMELY inaccurate due to lots of movement from the tangent sight. It's a very cool piece but pretty much unusable at this point! So, what would YOU do if you had this gun???

Ben

 

[Joe the Redneck]

First, I wouln't worry about the alloy frame. Just don't hot rod the darn thing or use it as a race gun. I think for normal shooting you should be fine.

As for the high power, this is kind of out side the box. But I would take some raw lindseed oil and let it dry on the scale. This will become sticky and hopefull keep the slider from wandering. Granted, it may not work, but at leat it won't hurt anything, just clean it off with terp.

You could also try loctite.

Best wishes

Joe

 

[telecaster1981]

Interesting idea on the linseed oil. I'd actually considered Loc-Tite and possibly soldering the parts so they don't move, but I don't know if the heat would adversely affect the integrity of the slide? Seems like silver solder melts at a pretty low temperature...might give it a shot! Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Steve C]

Loctite would be the way to go if you ever want to return the sight to its original adjustment, make sure you choose the non permanent type.

Silver Solder, lead solder, or Brazing all requires a mechanically clean metal surface to adhere properly which may be difficult on the sight. With silver solder which is actually a silver copper brazing a micro torch will be required as it melts at around 800 deg. F where lead solder melts at 1/2 that.

I used JB Weld to fix the elevation of my Russian Makarov and make it a fixed sight with windage adjustment only. The elevation adjustment screw hole was improperly tapped when manufactured and the screw would work out as the gun was fired. I got tired of searching for the screw and the little spring on the range (loosing it once). JB weld is available in any Auto supply, Walmart or similar store that has hardware. It's a 2 part epoxy that will fix a variety of metal and non metal items. Its a permanent fix once it sets up. Its gray in color and can be blacked with a magic marker if you want.

 

[Murdock]

There are lots of good epoxy products out there. I would try blue Loctite first, and something stronger if that doesn't do the trick for you (like red Loctite). You will probably not need to resort to soldering.

 

[telecaster1981]

I'll have to give the Loc-Tite a try. Thought about JB Weld too. Another thought was just buying one of the FM Detective Slide assembly and having a BHP that would carry a bit better. Seems like I heard that Inglis frames don't work with FN/Browning slides...can anybody confirm this? Also, I was tossing around the idea of buying a steel 1911 frame to have on hand in case I wear my Commander's aluminum slide out one day.