A5 friction ring setting with Cutts

[Ballistic Mule]

I'm trying to figure out the correct friction ring setting w/ the cutts comp

I am aware of the light/heavy settings and have seen diagrams showing the ring placed at the bottom of the tube taking it out of service w/ the cutts installed due to the gas loss through the comp,it will function like this but I don't want to beat it up.

I have also been told"never run the gun w/out the ring in at least the light setting,so I have tried...

REM OIL
WD 40
40 weight motor oil(3 drops) w/ all three I get about 5rds. then FTE.

I have seen several of this type of shotgun w/ the cutts installed so it must cycle somehow? I'll be damed if I can get it to work.

p.s. It does cycle w/ the full choke non cutts barrel that came w/ it. thanks.

 

[rbernie]

If I understand you, you're suggesting that you cannot run your Auto5 with any friction ring installed (even when lubing the magazine tube) if you use a specific barrel with a Cutts on the end of it - is this correct?

What ammo are you using, and how long is the barrel with the Cutts?

 

[Ballistic Mule]

Thanks for the reply. The barrel measures 20 3/8" to the begining of the comp from the rear of the chamber and 24 1/4" to the end of the comp.

The loads I have tried so far are.

Win. super target 3 dram 1 1/8oz. 7 1/2 shot
Win. super x game 3 1/4 dram 1 oz. 7 1/2 shot

I also have a case of super x heavy game 3 1/4 dram 1 1/8 oz. 7 1/2 shot that I have yet to try. Thanks

 

[rbernie]

The A5 is recoil operated, so the Cutts' redirection of gases is not an issue here. Being recoil operated, the gun is sensitive to barrel mass (with lighter barrels recoiling faster/more easily than heavier ones). I would think that the Cutts unit would replace most of the mass lost to the barrel being cut down, and if anything would expect the gun would recoil harder instead of short stroking.

First things first - check the magazine tube for straightness. Then make sure that the forearm is not rubbing on the barrel excessively (which I have found to be the most common reason for issues when barrel swapping).

If I had to guess, I would expect you to find that the barrel will hand-cycle into the action smoothly without the forearm attached but to bind when the forearm is installed....

 

[scchokedaddy]

lube

Wd 40, motor oil and other liquids are a no no for Browning!!! Use a good high temp high pressure grease. Lightly coat tube then wipe off any excess and reassemble weapon. It might take you 2 or 3 tries to get it right. Once you have it right leave it alone, do not clean it again till it quits. I own 3 16 gauges, 2 light 12's, and 2 magnums {12 gauge} and 1 20 gauge. Some are for deer some are for clays and skeet. Also have several 1148's that I also love to shoot. All are recoil opperated and lube the same. Make sure rings are set right, and don' overlube and they are a joy to shoot. Over lubing will break forearm as quick as setting rings wrong. Also there is a recoil spring in the stock that will break from either being wrong. Sounds like a lotta trouble but once you get it right or even better someone shows you how you find it's really simple. Enjoy the Browning Shuffle as well as shooting history.

 

[scchokedaddy]

cutts

Forgot your op, the Cutts does not affect the operation. I have cutts and weaver style on some of my Brownings, I also have both styles of cutts tubes and some times shoot without the compensator body. That is I screw choke to flange and shoot. Little bit easier on companions ears when shooting as a group.

 

[Ballistic Mule]

Thanks to all for all the help. It will be a few days until I can get out with it and try these tips.

 

[rbernie]

If the gun is set up properly, the magazine tube should need no lube.