Now that I see how much force is required to resize rifle rounds, I would like to find a way to add stiffness to my wood work bench. I am thinking about a 6" x 6" piece of quarter inch steel with four holes drilled in it. Are there other options that might be easier? Thank you.
Adding stiffness to a workbench.
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gaowlpoop
Member
Can you brace it up a little using some 2x4 lumber?
The steel is a good idea but I think I would go bigger and spread the load out over a much bigger area. When you say 4 holes in it, I assume you mean at the corners. Also, if your bench is particle board or some such, I would use bolts and big washers instead of screws.
The steel is a good idea but I think I would go bigger and spread the load out over a much bigger area. When you say 4 holes in it, I assume you mean at the corners. Also, if your bench is particle board or some such, I would use bolts and big washers instead of screws.
NuJudge
Member
Bolting long pieces of angle iron to the bottom of the top surface might be helpful. Anything that spreads out the 'footprint' of the stress will be helpful.
CDD
CDD
oneounceload
member
Use plywood added to your bench top, preferably 5/8" doubled or thicker
Marlin 45 carbine
Member
if the legs are wood try 'scabbing' over the side of them with 1/2" or 5/8" plywood to tie them together.
the steel plate is a good idea but maybe a couple pieces of 1/8" x2" angle around a foot long drilled through mounted to the underneath and press bolts would be better. or use both and be sure.
the steel plate is a good idea but maybe a couple pieces of 1/8" x2" angle around a foot long drilled through mounted to the underneath and press bolts would be better. or use both and be sure.
dubbleA
Member
It hasnt been mentioned yet but if your top is a bit flimsy mount the press close to a corner instead of the middle of the bench as it will be much stiffer/stronger there. As already stated, you can make a steel plate bigger thus spreading out the load/force.
mongoose33
Member
I don't think a steel plate of that size will help that much. I agree w/ others--a 5/8" piece of plywood, screwed *and* glued to the top, would add a lot of stability. And as others indicated, strengthening the legs helps too.
1SOW
Member
mongoose33 +1.
IMO You need to distribute the stiffening out farther, probably including front to rear depending on your bench construction.
Like said above, well fastened plywood plus bracing like Walkalongs should do the job.
IMO You need to distribute the stiffening out farther, probably including front to rear depending on your bench construction.
Like said above, well fastened plywood plus bracing like Walkalongs should do the job.
fireman 9731
Member
Make sure you are using plenty of lube, especially at the base of the shell and it will take considerably less effort.
qajaq59
Member
For one of my benches I used 3 layers of 3/4 inch plywood glued and screwed into one solid piece. Then the press was bolted thru with large washers. It never moved after that.
bullseye308
Member
Cut a piece of 2x6 to fit under the front edge of the bench. Screw it in on the ends. Set your steel plate down and bolt your press to it with the bolts going through the steel plate, the press, your bench top, and the 2x6. Really, it's not overkill. 
Encoreman
Member
Have you thought of Viagra. Just kidding!! I use a piece of 2x2 angle iron along the front edge of my benches and mount at least part of the bolts thru press into it.
Sunray
Member
"...thinking about a 6" x 6" piece of quarter inch steel..." Put a square foot(got it free) of that on my cheap($30Cdn) bench kit after the OSB top broke on the very first use. Bolted the plate to the bench and the press to the plate. No further issues.
Drilling holes in mild steel with a hand held electric drill isn't a big deal.
Drilling holes in mild steel with a hand held electric drill isn't a big deal.
sonier
Member
ive used laminated beams, if you got any scrap laminated beams you can find places to put them and some 6 inch lags it wont ever move. also if you dont have laminated beams make some. just glue bunch of plywood 1x4 type lumber together and your good.... best of luck
Sonier
Sonier
I took a different approach..
After breaking the top on my first "bench" (cheap office desk)
I made the second with an offcut of 1 1/2" thick kitchen worktop and reinforced the underneath with a 3/4" x6" wide oak plank..I also mounted the press a little further back to take it away from the edge, again for extra strength..
After breaking the top on my first "bench" (cheap office desk)
I made the second with an offcut of 1 1/2" thick kitchen worktop and reinforced the underneath with a 3/4" x6" wide oak plank..I also mounted the press a little further back to take it away from the edge, again for extra strength..
R.W.Dale
Member
PeteE your setup is remarkably like mine. Only my desk is an old army surplus affair that so overbuilt I believe it could take a direct hit from an anti tank round. I did fabricate a quick detach mechanism that also serves to spread the load around.
Tom S.
Member
A picture of your bench would help a lot. Reinforcing the top with steel will help spread the force, but if the rest of the bench is weak or flimsy, you'll still have problems.
It is impossible to have a bench that is too sturdy.
It is impossible to have a bench that is too sturdy.
alfack
Member
You may not need a stiffer bench, if you used something like the Dillon Strong Mount.
I don't know if it will work for your setup or not, but surely something similar would.
I don't know if it will work for your setup or not, but surely something similar would.
R.W.Dale
Member
tactikel
Member
I added a piece of scrap Formica on top of an old toolbench ($10 at Menards). I ran two 1x6s under the bench and bolted the whole thing together with 1/4" bolts. It is absolutely solid (and cost $14 total).
1SOW
Member
krochus: That's a slick idea, but does it need much "play" to be able to take it in and out to clear the drawer?
I have a similar drawer problem.
I have a similar drawer problem.
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