Newbie Question: Mounting press to workbench

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Onewolf

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I am just starting into reloading and I need to mount my new Redding T7 to my workbench. I was wondering if there are "best practices" for mounting a press to a workbench. For instance, would it be better to simply mount (4 5/16" bolts) the press directly to workbench or would it be better in the long run to mount the press to a "universal" base plate and then mount the base plate to the workbench? (Thinking it might make it easier to switch presses later on?).

Thanks for any advice.

Doug
 
Mount it wherever you want it on the benchtop and then cut a 4X4 leg and place it directly under the press. Shim it until it's good and tight. Leave just enough room in front for the ram to clear the 4X4. The press needs to be solid enough that if you stood on the handle you cannot see any flex of the bench. At all. A universal plate is a great idea if you are limited on space but it still needs a solid post under it. Don't try to put too much stuff on the bench. You want a large open workspace. Put your powder measure on something that won't pick up vibrations from the bench, like on a small wall shelf. Install the brightest lighting you can get. You just can't have too much light when reloading. Don't place a large fluorescent fixture above a priming tool. I have seen several people blow a tube full of primers straight up into a fluorescent light. Makes a real mess. I like to use a drafting type lamp on a long swivel arm. You can get it out of the way easily and focus it right where you need light to see inside of cases.
 
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I made my own mounting plate for my Lee single stage from a block of 1/2" Al plate that I had around. My Dillon and Forster are bolted directly to the bench using large bolts and fender washers between the bottom of the bench and the nuts. The reason for the different setups was the mounting bolt holes on the Lee being too close to the front edge of the press for my liking. It left almost no material at the edge of the bench to hold the bolt.
 
I am just starting into reloading and I need to mount my new Redding T7 to my workbench. I was wondering if there are "best practices" for mounting a press to a workbench. For instance, would it be better to simply mount (4 5/16" bolts) the press directly to workbench or would it be better in the long run to mount the press to a "universal" base plate and then mount the base plate to the workbench? (Thinking it might make it easier to switch presses later on?).

Thanks for any advice.

Doug

In my opinion, the "best practice" is to mount the press to a sturdy, rigid structure that does not flex or move during operation. In particular, a wood bench will only get looser over time if it flexes when the press is used.

Beyond that, a lot of personal preference comes into play. Any way you mount your first press will probably change down the road as you get experience and decide to something else.

If you think you might want to swap out presses or other gear in the future, start with a replaceable mounting plate from the get-go. But it certainly is not a requirement.

For sure, some kind of load spreading device on the bottom side of your bench, assuming your bench is wood. These could be fender washers or a back up plate of some kind.

Hope this helps.
 
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Here's several "best practices" which I'm glad to share....

• The press needs to be mounted with 1/4" or larger bolts using ALL the mounting holes in the press base. Larger than 1/4" isn't really "stronger" since you can't physically apply that much force, but larger bolts may fill the holes better to keep the press from shifting around during operation.

• If the bench is wooden, then you need to spread out the load into the wood by using "fender washers" (oversize washers) on the bottom side of the bench.

• You can help spread out the load on the top or bottom side of the bench by adding a 12x12" piece of 3/4" plywood to either side. This is especially helpful if your bench top is thin or weak. If you see any bench top movement during reloading, then it requires this kind of local re-enforcement.

• The best location for the press is directly over a table leg to reduce bench top movement. If you want your press in the middle of the bench, then consider adding a 5th leg to the bench, under the press location.

• Set the press as far back onto the bench top as possible to help displace the forces into a larger area of the bench. (Of course the op lever still requires a full swing.) This extra set-back is what the Dillon "Strong Mount" does. Here's a T7 mounted in such a fashion...

t7%2520side.jpg

• Securing the back of the bench to the wall in several places will drastically reduce any side-to-side movement, and improve your muscular performance.

• After mounting, your shoulder should be at about the same level as the op lever ball. That can be adjusted best by selection of the right chair or stool.


NOTE: Any movement in the bench top is nothing more than wasted effort on your part. ALL the energy to move the bench top comes from your muscular effort. Therefore, any bench movement is wasted energy, which can lead to soar shoulders and arms.


Finally....
If you first mount the press to a 12x12 piece of 3/4" plywood (as discussed above), then you can temporarily locate the press in several locations and presentation angles using C-clamps. This will allow you to see what works best for you without spoiling your table top with tens of extra bolt holes. This also lends itself to a version of the swappable press mount you discussed, and can be very handy if you use your bench for other hobbies or jobs.



Hope this helps!
 
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If you have the time and budget you can find plans for one of these all over the place. It was designed for reloading. There is an extra brace running the width of the table for bolting stuff to. It is a very sturdy bench and plenty of space for all the stuff. It helps me keep ONLY reloading stuff on this bench.
28272Reloading_bench_002.jpg
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Here it is after I got the stuff put on.
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All my presses are mounted to about an 18" piece of 6/4-8/4 hardwood. (That's 1 1/2"-2" thick) The hardwood is in turn clamped with heavy duty bar clamps to my woodworking bench which is very solid. This gives me the opportunity to move the presses around as needed, yet are very stable and secure.
 
I built my bench with some 2x4s under the bench surface. I've bolted my press, powder thrower, and trimmer to smaller pieces of wood so I can c-clamp them to the bench as needed. Gives me some flexibility for the smallish bench I have and I can also keep my bench surface clean so the wife could use it for crafty stuff if she wants. This way the money I spent building it wasn't spent on just "my bench." ;)
 
I made a universal mounting plate from 1" thick T6061 alloy...it's drilled and tapped to accept 8 different presses.
The bench top underneath is 1¾" butcher block hardwood.

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I wouldn't go so far as to call that the "most secure" method. Adding through bolts through the benchtop would be more secure than using wood screws.
 
Doug - yes, it'll be easier if you use a base plate.
But I guess it depends on how picky you are.

Personally, I just mounted my press directly to the bench.
If I just "have" to move it later, I can always fill the holes with wood putty.
Or just add a sheet of some sort of veneer on top
 
I have mine mounted at a slight angle facing towards the center of the bench. This gives me a little better angle for leverage with out moving around. I also have a stanless steel doctors seat with swivel wheels.
 
I have limited space with two presses so use the Lee Bench plate system which takes as quick as you can loosen 4 screws, slide a press out, slide a new one in and tighten those 4 screws again. Works great for my needs and presses as well as vise and other tools mounted on the supplied wood blocks though I use the metal plates for my presses.
 

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I built one in the same style as presspuller. Checkout the front of the bench. Even if you don't build the NRMA Bench, the front rail is a good idea.

Good Luck

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